opinions ?

[pondking]

Car is getting blasted and then sealed 

 

anybody have some constructive criticism?

worthy opinions?

from experience? 

 

 

 

[/url]">http://http://s932.photobucket.com/user/enjoyitnow/media/Photo%20on%205-19-16%20at%2012.18%20PM%202_zpsro8aa5sb.jpg.html'>

[flatcat19]

I don't.

[uieluck]

Yes, don't flip the car or pictures before sealed. It could turn out like:

[pondking]

very constructive 

[tr8er]

I get blasted from time to time...

 

I like epoxy primer on fresh metal.

 

I don't like mirrored photos.

[Lockleaf]

You don't actually ask any questions. Opinions? On what? Blasting? Sealing? Shops who do this work? Products that work best?

 

Better questions will get better answers. So will a better thread title

[KoHeartsGPA]

Be very careful about blasting...your car might just vanish...

[pondking]

thanks 

everyone says epoxy 

 

I'm hoping I can primer after sealer 

could I epoxy after?

 

 

 

but 

I am looking for  general answers 

so

questions in between 

 

prep?

be careful for ?

etc.....

 

also in the details of 

"Ive done it with"  

 

believe me I know its ratsun 

sorry about the oics 

[pondking]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROY0_Xkr_6A

[KoHeartsGPA]

Impressive!!

[Lockleaf]

It's only something like $180K,that's right, $180,000, for that little derusting unit right there.

[Rjawm]

Blasting leaves residual media in all the cracks and crevices, and can be horrid depending on the media used.  Also medias like baking soda and walnut shells can leave behind a residue that must be removed before starting the sealing process or can lead to major bond failures.

 

 

Epoxy is used to seal the metal from moisture.  Its 2 part mix creates a better chemically bonded and sealed skin over bare steel, that's why it's recommended as the first layer.

 

Secondly, when you apply the primer over it and inevitably sand through during bodywork the bulk of the untouched epoxy is still protecting the bare steel underneath, and only small areas have been breached lowering the chances of failure to only those areas.  If resealed with epoxy as the first basecoat before color is applied it lowers the chances that even those areas will have failures.  Your main risk at this point is having a blowup due to a reaction related to solvent creeping under the open areas.  Super highend shops will apply epoxy sealer in-between every resand until the final.

 

During prep, remember to sand every surface.  Anything left unsanded can lead to bond failures in the future. This is commonly seen around the edges of trim, glass, and such that people didn't want to risk hitting with a DA sander while pepping.  Quick and dirty paint jobs like the $500 jobs at Maaco have this happen quite often.  All it takes is even a quick rub with some gray Scotchbrite and it will give enough surface prep to promote good bonding to help prevent the failure.

 

The finer the grit during final wetsand prepping, the less chance of sandscratches showing in the final paint job.  Don't think that one spot with the 220 grit won't show up that bad, trust me, it will.  But don't take this too far, meaning more is not better, 500 grit is usually recommended for the final prep.  1000 and 1200 grit paper is intended for colorsanding and buffing after the paint has fully cured, which unless you're using a bake booth, can be 2 weeks or longer depending on the weather.

 

Be diligent about cleaning every surface.  It's way easier to clean something 10 times before paint gets sprayed than after the dirt gets stuck in a fresh layed colorcoat.

 

 

In the end, what the fuck do I know, I'm just a random guy on the internet but, there is that Tech School degree in Auto Collision Repair that sits in a desk drawer, +/- 7 years working in auto body shops, and playing with cars as a hobby since forever that might come into play.