510 radiator

[76_620]

I have l16 I'm working on in my 510, ordered a 2 row radiator on accident, didn't double check if it was 3 row I assumed it was. Any major benefit of 3row to 2row should I be concerned on returning or it just running it ? Stock l16 motor

[Draker]

What radiator did you get? I'm sure it'll be fine.. but it does get pretty hot in bakersfield.

[Draker]

I got this:  HH022598

 

It's a two row aluminum Koyo radiator with an L20 and the stock 4 blade fan... works fine.

[76_620]

i got a 2 row from DNA motoring, i read mixed reviews about them ? i hope theyre not the same junk as champion. hopefully i dont regret not getting the koyorad, indeed Bakersfield is an oven durring the summer

[banzai510(hainz)]

3row is better(hot climate) but the KOYO is the better rad. which is really made in Indonesia

the Chinese Rads are spotty in quality.  I have one and looks good but haven't ran it yet

[76_620]

3row is better(hot climate) but the KOYO is the better rad. which is really made in Indonesia

the Chinese Rads are spotty in quality.  I have one and looks good but haven't ran it yet

indeed looks nice and shiny, lets just hope it works as good as it looks. if not i guess koyo it is, ive read theyre worth the money

[datzenmike]

Paint it flat black. Matte black radiates more heat than white and way more than shiny surface like aluminum. A perfect insulator is also a perfect reflector. Matte or flat black finish has a larger surface area than shiny. Larger surface = more infrared emitting surface. Like fins on a valve cover. You do know that the fins are for cooling not for show like flames painted on fenders. Do not polish the brass top rad tank... black it out.

 

Close off all openings in the rad support that you can. Run a rubber strip along under the hood so that it seals air from getting in over the rad top when closed. Use foam rubber to seal any cracks or spaces around the rad. If possible run a front spoiler. This forces a high pressure area in front of the car... air can only go over the car and/or through the rad.

 

Always use a fan shroud to increase fan efficiency at low vehicle speeds.

 

Install a special rad cap so you can run your own coolant recovery can.

 

If heater is leaking or for any reason disconnected ... NEVER connect the heater hose from the head back to the return heater hose to the lower rad return fitting. This is HOT water that is being circulated back to the engine without going through the radiator. You will be making the cooling system work even harder. Close off both hoses. This is what the heater control would normally do in the summer.

 

Always run a 50/50 mix of good quality anti freeze/coolant and distilled water. Distilled water does not have dissolved minerals in it that build up over the years as you constantly add water and it boils away.

 

If you have a clutch fan check that it turns smoothly but with firm effort. It should never spin freely.

 

Check the lower rad hose for softness. Coolant hoses rot from the inside out and may look good but are not. A soft lower rad hose will collapse from water pump suction at highway speeds.

 

If you have a automatic get an external finned cooler, the largest you can afford. Also known as RV coolers? Normally the ATF is cooled by a small heat exchanger in the lower tank of your rad. This will reduce the work load on your rad.

 

Keep engine in proper tune. An efficient engine turns heat into motion. Waste heat has to go somewhere. Retarded timing is one of the worst wastes of heat that ends up in the cooling system. 

 

 

 

 

 

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[banzai510(hainz)]

Always run a 50/50 mix of good quality anti freeze/coolant and distilled water. Distilled water does not have dissolved minerals in it that build up over the years as you constantly add water and it boils away.

 

 

I just buy the Walmart 50/50 mix .

 

People don't be cheap. Don't run hose water any longer.. The front covers will go bad