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411 brake light question


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Brake lights are not coming on. Bulbs look good and can't find a short. I did see what looks like a bracket above the brake pedal stem that might have held a switch? Not sure. If there is a way to upload pics not from a URL I can add pics to show what I'm talking about. Otherwise any I do or pics of what it's supposed to look like are appreciated. Ty

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Are we talking about your 411 here? Most older Dats have a simple plunger switch housed at the top of the brake assembly. It's held inside a threaded tube passing through a flange with flat bolts holding it in position. That plunger is met by a tab on the peddle. Follow the peddle up and you can't miss it. One of the bolts may have backed off, but if it's not there, it couldn't get too far. Feel around. 

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Depends on the model of 411! Later 411, like the RL411, have the brake lights activated from a pressure switch integrated into the brake fluid lines inside the engine compartment! Not a micro switch on the brake pedal. Pix would help determine just which layout of the brake switch you have.

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A short is a 'short' path to ground which would draw infinite current and burn the wire and why it is protected by a fuse. Check your fuse. If it's OK then not a 'short' but an OPEN. This is a break in the continuity of a circuit that prevents power from flowing. This could be from a switch not working or unplugged, no power in that circuit, bulb blown or corroded, even the ground wire may be broken.

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OK so I got a pic uploaded to photobucket to show what I am talking about. if you look toward the top of the pic about center you will see what looks like a possible bracket for what should be a brake light switch. I would imagine as said above some sort of plunger style that when compressed turns off the lights and when uncompressed the lights come on. Let me know what you think or if I'm looking in the wrong spot, thanks.



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Oh and last thing this is 67.


Now the important clarification! PL411 with the J1300 engine or the RL411 with the R1600 engine? Or an "improved" with lord knows what original engine. The "almost VIN" stamped on the firewall above the ignition coil should have a "PL411xxxx" or "RL411xxx" stamped into the sheet metal. After 48 years the info on the metal tag on the right front fender well might not be reliable any more. There are all too many bogus "stamp whatever you want in the blank spaces" firms providing fake fender ID patches.

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