kgrantkey Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I've been driving me 620 w l20b more than usual. Today it wouldnt accelerate with the gas peddel in one location. I could pump the peddel but it was poor going. I noticed it was almost out of gas so I filld it up. It may have some trash somewhere, but the sight glss on the front of the carb is just above center/level. Thats where its been forever. I could almost get up to 10, 20 miles per hr on a flat road pumping the gas peddel. I made it a few miles down to the job sight. I had some work to do so all I coud do to the truck was raise the timming and make sure no vaccume leak was bad and took off the gass cap. The way I fixed it "to get me home" was loosen the choke screws, turn the adjustment til I had 1/2 of my carb at full choke. The butterfly on the drivers side was blocking that part of the carb. Made a big dif. still had to pump it some. So it's like i tell people i cant fix it over the phone. I'm gonna rework the carb tomorrow or soon. It almost seems like the carb pump isnt squirting enough gass. Just lucky I made it home. And that was at about 65mph on the freeway after i twisted the choke that far. Made a huge difference. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 idle jet or main jet plugged. when you put the choke on it cause the 2ndary(if stock carb) or 32/36 to open up ezer to get airvol going thru to pull gas. and pumping the gas helps the low end vai the carb accell pump just my opinion here Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 The above. If full of gas it's getting to the carb, just not mixing with the air. Main jet part blocked with sediment or... ? Had a mosquito stuck in one once. A blocked jet forces you to push farther and farther down on the pedal and still no power. Often it will rev up in neutral with no load. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Yup, when you put them back in, make sure theyre tight, they dont run well when they rattle loose and come unscrewed in those shitatchis lol. Very inconveinient if you dont have tools to take the carb off with ya too :p Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Damn my spelling is terrible. It was late and I was in the basement with poor light and in a hurry....so O'well. Thanks for the responses. I also ran accross a thread similar to mine link so I'm also gonndown blow some air the gas line. I did this once before so I suspect trash in the tank. I use a clear fuel filter and it has gas in it but probably lets thru some small dirt, not to mention I've also driven around with the air cleaner off. I made a post about getting rid of a lot of datsun stuff to make room but I kept a small tub of carbs and parts. I'll be piecing one together today. And did the webers come down in price or am I mistaken? I never really saw a reason to buy one. I'm sure I've bragged about paying 35.00 for this truck (bad radiator caused bad head gasket) Just jumped on to say thanks for the responses.....now I gotta find where those carbs are at. :blush: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Replace the fuel filter, cut the old one open and examine. If plugged with dirt maybe flush the lines and tank otherwise it's fine. Dirt won't get past the filter... that's it's whole reason for being there. I have had the filter come apart inside before and would rattle when shaken, but if you's is ok just clean the carb jets. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 I run one of the see thru filters and it's fairly new. I know that doesn't matter if you run it to empty and your gas tank is 40 years old. I did blow back thru thru line going to the filter and just decided to put this ... back on. It came off a Toyota but I cant remember which one. It didn't bolt up so one day I was at Roco&Cheeters speed shop, they were famous in these parts about 30 or 40 years ago and bought the adapter, it even could be called a hi-rise and it all fit together. I've probably posted it on here before. The last time i rebuilt the motor I went back with the original. It always served me well and is easier to hook up. I will say it's almost like a four barrel carb on it now. When you floor it it shoves some gas down the intake. I've even got passing power cursing at 70 on the freeway. Oh something else you may notice, I've probably posted before is the 710 brake booster and master cylinder. I got so tired of getting what looked brand new out of the box only to find the master cylinder from AutoZone was bad again. Can't even keep track of how many bad out of the box I've gotten over the years. And I have no complaints at all with drum brakes all the way around. Adjust them as necessary and they stop great. You California guys take it easy. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Cheap Chinese ones with aluminum fillings and threads in them because they weren't cleaned properly or at all after milling and torn rubber seals from some 20 cent an hour stuffing them together on an assembly line. Ya gits what ya pays for. Keep old ones and rebuild with a good quality kit. 1 Quote Link to comment
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