GoGoGo Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 First of all I am sure this is covered somewhere in ratsun but my searches didn't show up anything that was helpful. If I missed the thread where all my answers will be covered then please just point me in the right direction. Background - I'm going from the completely stock ignition system to the ignition system that came with the L20b package deal I bought. Before doing the engine swap I would like to put together the plan/outline for how to wire it up once the engine is in the car. My basic questions are what do I not need to use anymore - i.e. the ballast resistor (which I won't be using) and what connections still need to kept and where do they go. Here is my stock setup and I do have a wiring diagram that is helping to at least identity what everything is. Here is the new setup that came with the L20b I took pics when it was in the previous owners car but his wiring was a big mess and also had a electronic fuel pump wired into the system so those pics haven't really helped. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 A 3 ohm coil? Datsun points coils are 1.3 to 1.7 ohms plus the ballast (probably around 3 ohms total) and the EI ones are 1 ohm. One ohm will draw three times the current and make more spark. I don't know if a Pertronix can safely handle an EI coil. Assume the Red goes to the coil + and the black to the coil - You won't need the ballast resistor. Black/White stripe and Black/Blue stripe join together and add to the Red from the distributor to the + coil terminal. Black/White stripe is power from the key in the ON and START positions. This powers the coil and the distributor. Black/Blue stripe is power only in the START position. Strictly isn't needed but no need for a loose wire hanging around. You know a good EI distributor and coil from a '79 or '80s Datsun will work better. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Flame thrower coil in picture is made by Pertronix . Seems to me,, all you have to figure out is which wire is 12 volts into that resistor and hook that up to + on coil. With a volt meter one will have 12 volts with key on .,,, one won't If it was me i would get it running on the Pertronix system correctly BEFORE you take engine out for whatever reason Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 if this is a 3 ohm coil then the above photo of coil hook up is correct. if stock coil with ballast the red wire would go to the blk/wht wire at the ballast resisitor so it gets the full 12/14 volts while running. Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Great! I thought it would be a fairly simple connection so the replies are very helpful. I just make sure I test for voltage so I get the right ignition switch wire. Should be the black/white wire already connected to the resistor but I will make sure before I pull the stock motor and use the new setup. Much appreciated... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I myself would run the stock coil and ballast. just hook the red wire from Pertronix to the blk/wht wire. so youll buy a piggybalck jumper so youll have the blk./wht and the red wire together. then the other side of ballast goes to the coil. Blk of pertronix goes to the - side coil. YOu can do this now to ck if works before pulling the motoer and learn to line up the rotor to TDC so when the dist bolts in it comes out in the correct spot. My opinion it will start EZer with the stock set up as youll be bypassing the resisitor for a HOTTER spark The Pertronix 3 ohm coil unless it automatic adjust to a lower ohm when starts it will still see 3 ohms during start which will be a smaller spark. Quote Link to comment
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