84 720 4x4 z24 pickup choke won't open

[blackbomber]

hey guys....need help with choke...I tried to re adjust choke, so it would just stay open all the time , but didn't work....I hooked up my meter to the connector going to the choke to see if I had power.. I set the meter on 12 volts.. I didn't get anything with the ignition on, no volts... so does that mean its the relay switch????      were is the relay... 

[datsunaholic]

Ignition on isn't enough- has to be running and the alternator working for the choke heater relay to trigger.

[datzenmike]

The '84 choke is set at the factory and non adjustable by the owner. You live in Colorado and are going to need a choke.

 

As suggested check with the engine running.

 

Yes there is power: Heater should warm up and release the choke. Remove heater by removing the three screws. (it may be riveted on so try the other stuf below first. you'll need self tapping screws if you drill out the rivets) When removing, take note that the coil spring inside clips to the choke shaft in order to turn it as it unwinds. Is it warm? If cold it's not working and needs replacing.

 

No, there's no power to it. The easiest thing to do is splice the (Blue) choke heater wire to the (Red) idle cut solenoid wire Just beside it. This will give it a new power source turned on and off by the ignition.

 

 

 

Is the choke free to move easily? Hold the throttle part open and close choke plate with finger. Is it loose and easy to move? If not spray all external linkages with carb cleaner or WD-40 and get them moving back and forth.

[blackbomber]

thanks mike, I will get back to the choke this week...we had some serious cold weather... supposed to warm up this week...  11 below zero this morning......

[blackbomber]

ps.. what company do you recommend for a rebuilt carb if I end up doing it......

[datzenmike]

For $30 for a good kit you can do it yourself. Mostly it's cleaning and proper setting of the linkages and float drop and the new gaskets and accelerator pump don't hurt either. A good kit should have detailed instructions and a few cardboard 'gauges' for setting things. Expect to take a morning to remove and rebuild and put back on. Have a large, paper covered table, carb cleaner, some parts can be soaked, tooth brushes and a few small tools. A camera for pictures helps  The Hitachi is complex but just take your time with it.

 

If you don't have smog checks, for the cost of a rebuilt Hitachi you can get a new weber.

[datzenmike]

The '84 choke is set at the factory and non adjustable by the owner. You live in Colorado and are going to need a choke.

 

As suggested check with the engine running.

 

Yes there is power: Heater should warm up and release the choke. Remove heater by removing the three screws. (it may be riveted on so try the other stuf below first. you'll need self tapping screws if you drill out the rivets) When removing, take note that the coil spring inside clips to the choke shaft in order to turn it as it unwinds. Is it warm? If cold it's not working and needs replacing.

 

No, there's no power to it. The easiest thing to do is splice the (Blue) choke heater wire to the (Red) idle cut solenoid wire Just beside it. This will give it a new power source turned on and off by the ignition.

 

 

 

Is the choke free to move easily? Hold the throttle part open and close choke plate with finger. Is it loose and easy to move? If not spray all external linkages with carb cleaner or WD-40 and get them moving back and forth.

 

Did you try this?

[blackbomber]

hey ratsun dudes... I got the choke working as designed....thanks.... gonna take truck in tomorrow for re test on emissions...also,  anti dieseling sileniod valve has not worked since 2010 because couldn't find another one... is it possible it is allowing fuel to be dumped into the carb during deceleration therefore causing rich mixture  , or is it only designed to shut fuel off when truck is turned off....    thanks ...bomber

[datzenmike]

It only feeds the idle circuit, however it's on all the time the engine is running. Only a small amount but the late 620 and all 720s had a system that turns the idle cut solenoid off (under certain conditions) during deceleration when it is just normally going to waste. It actually saves gas.

 

Emissions testing doesn't involve deceleration so no it has no effect..

[blackbomber]

thanks mike....got the truck through emissions.....it did great....   and thanks for the info on the anti dieseling solenoid....doesn't  look like it had anything to do with it...I don't know how to close out this post.....    I have a electrical issue I need to start working on..... should I keep this one going or what do you want me to do....thanks    the bomb.... looks like I get to drive it for 2 more years, or until somebody blows up the emission testing place....

[wayno]

If it's another electrical issue, your in the right section, if you want to change the title to reflect your new issue, just go to the first post and use the full editor.

thanks mike....got the truck through emissions.....it did great....   and thanks for the info on the anti dieseling solenoid....doesn't  look like it had anything to do with it...I don't know how to close out this post.....    I have a electrical issue I need to start working on..... should I keep this one going or what do you want me to do....thanks    the bomb.... looks like I get to drive it for 2 more years, or until somebody blows up the emission testing place....

[datzenmike]

Add to it so the search engine can still find something choke related in it.  Like "Choke and ----- electric problems 84 720". This way someone 5 years from now can find and read what you did about the choke.