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Alternator


sycloned916

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The plug most likely goes to the external regulator. The newer alt will be internally regulated, so you won't need that. You can run new wires or run jumpers off the wires to by-pass the regulator. I know that's been posted here before.

 

I ran new wires on my roadster when I converted it. Long-term, I'm gonna shitcan the crap butchered wiring and replace it with an EZ Wiring harness.

 

You might be the first oh-fish-all documented case of upgrading a J-series engine alt. Take some pics and document it. :thumbup:

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Now i'm looking at the saturn alt. not too sure on which one now,but i'd rather have more amps. Last winter when it was raining my wipers were moving as fast as my truck goes on the freeway.Not fun to drive in.

I will take pics when i do find a alt that i like the GM 1-wire or the CS-130 alt. I'll probly try to find your write up slodat and do some reading on them first before i start to tear it up.

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If size for a IR alternator is a problem there are a couple of options sticking with Nissan/Datsun stuff. The 50 amp IR alternator has 2 case sizes, one being smaller (5" diameter, 10lbs) and the other being the barrel diameter as the 60 amp one (about 5.5", 11 lbs). The forklifts, H20?, uses a smaller IR alternator in 35, 40 and 50 amps (4.5" barrel diameter, 8 lbs). Notice the forklift one has an internal fan for less drag too ....

 

Alternator_Front.jpg

 

L-R 60 amp, 50 amp small body, 50 amp forklift

 

Alternator_Top.jpg

 

EDITED WITH DATA & PICTURES ADDED.

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Just pick'd up a Delco-Remy alt. 7860-11,seemed to fit pretty good.Won't start putting it in till after the sac meet. Where would i connect the two wires that come off the alt.

I know the power goes to the nut that's there,but there are two plugs on the alt that i'm not too sure of.I'll keep reading the how-to but cant seem to find it.

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There are three wires:

 

The main +12v output - the stud on the back. Heavy gauge wire to the battery or starter.

 

The two wire connector:

1 or R - a lamp is wired in series with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. If the regulator is damaged, the 1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light. This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped 10SI alternators.

2 or F - Field/Sense Terminal. (Marked with a 2 and F on case) This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation. It is connected to the battery positive. For simplicity you can connect the 2 connector pigtail directly to the BAT terminal on the alternator.

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Really? I had the alt tested from my '77-'78 L20b (donor car unknown). It was putting out 50A, so I decided to upgrade to a Saturn alt later.

 

Maybe it had a Z car one on it? My '78 620 had 30? amp I put a 720 alternator on it 60 amp but it was much bigger around and was close to rubbing the idler arm grease nipple when the belt was worn.

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Thinking this was going to take a day to do,took me about 25-30min to install and back running. Everything fit like it's was made for it.

DSC00057.jpg

GM harness with 50ohm resistor wired in.

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Alternator with harness ready to drop it.

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Back shot!

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Side by side.

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Same.

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Mounted it stock bracket,only had to cut the adjuster bracket for tension.

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Adjuster bracket.

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Done and wired up!

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Just have to start it.

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14.59volts at idle from the 35amp, 12.20v stock alt.

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