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July 11, 2014 in 720
After looking at the exploded parts diagrams for the front axle and transfer case, I've yet to come across any p/n for a crush sleeve.
Maybe they meant the collar bearing? :confused:
Maybe I'll have them point it out on Monday. They offered to sell me the axles and assorted assemblies at their cost... $60. Not bad.
Time to start stocking up on parts! I'll post some carnage pix soon.
I looked for a 'crush sleeve' couldn't find it. Got a picture?
I couldn't find one either. I'm gonna have it towed to my workshop on Monday; I'll sit down with the mechanic that was working on it and have him point it out.
I believe they mean wheel bearing collar,which you can still find oem here.
Can't get the link to work correctly.
can't you just buy half shafts for an 84+ and switch sides? since all they did was move it over... and i think its the same length just moved over...
IDK tho. seems a lot easier..
'80 720 with L20B engine had the differential on the right and '81 and up with Z series engines had on the left. Swap sides to fit the earlier ones. Not sure about later Z24 years. Sealik will know.
Collar front bearing appears to be select fit part. Comes in different sizes maybe to set pre load? Can't see them wearing out.
83+ will not swap to the earlier years
I believe the 80 half shafts will swap to the 81/82.
IE..... 80 passenger side to 81/82 drivers side........80 drivers side to 81/82 passenger side.
Dude couldn't point it out.
So I'm going to end up tearing into it. Unfortunately he ended up buying two DS hub assemblies. No cv joints.
Took them anyways, so I may have a spare or two soon. Wouldn't mind finding another DS cv axle to rebuild.
They were able to button everything back up, but I got it TFO of there.
Time to start stocking up on parts, fortunately there's a bunch of sales going on and I should be able to get the front end (drivetrain and suspension) rebuilt for under $500.
There was an 80 4x4 in an ecology yard here last month Post some pictures of exactly what you need and I will see if it has the parts you need.
I'll need the passenger side cv axle if it's still in there! :)
Today I had an opportunity to crack into things and made sure that it could roll it elsewhere if needed.
The DS rotor is completely chewed up now. Caliper seems tricked too.
Will D21 calipers really bolt right up? Kinda hesitant to rebuild the current one.
As far as the axle's condition is concerned, they were able to seal it back up and throw a cotter pin in, but all my cv boots at this point are completely trashed. Bet the axles aren't in the best of shape, but there was barely any play as is, and they aren't clicking around. I've got boots on the way, so I'm gonna have to tear the axles down anyway. Hopefully they're in serviceable condition.
I made a couple ramps to articulate both sides independently and steered back and forth. Seems like it's solid enough to move short distances, but I'm not risking anything until the critical stuff is fixed and/or replaced.
The DS upper ball joint was completely ruptured under about 2" of mud. Wonder if this happened prior.
Thus far I've obtained just about every bushing, new shocks, upper and lower ball joints, new rotors, inner and outer wheel bearings (Almost 220K miles on chassis), pads, tie rod ends, etc. Still waiting on parts... and really needing to get sponsored by Harbor Freight. :rofl:
D21 's used a vented rotor which is much thicker, it may bolt up but the pistons in the caliper will be extended out much further than designed. With that said it could push the piston out to far, possible seal issues and so forth.
Where did they put a cotter pin?? The axle asembly doesn't have any cotter pins..
Meant the retaining snap-ring clip, brainfart at the time.
Started to tear into the passenger side first. Upper ball joint had no rubber underneath all the mud and grease. Lower is in rough shape.
How hard is it to separate the cv axles? Gotta replace both boots on both sides. Hoping I can just MC Hammer them apart and together.
Can't wait to take it for a ride with working shocks, fresh joints, and bushes all over.
So, upon further inspection, it appears that underneath the grease there was no snap ring...
So I'm considering taking the axle to a machine shop to get a channel cut into it so I can get a snap ring in place.
Anyone have any similar experience or pointers they'd like to share?
So, my temporary solution until I can find a replacement axle...
22mm clamping shaft collar. 15mm wide, though. Don't think I'll be able to fit it with the drive clutch.
I just need the ability to keep the inner workings of the wheel together. Reliably.
If it's too wide, I'll take the drive clutch off and just be patient to go 4WD with a nicer axle, or a solid one.
I've got a serious time crunch to get it back on all four wheels, and hopefully the road. I think the application is a little overkill, but in my unique circumstance, perfect.
Ok, first off you will need a press to change the cv boots out on your axle not a hammer. You have to press off the inner spider bearing, don't want to go hammering in the bearings.
The groove for the axle snap is on there. Grab your axle assembly from the back and pull the axle forward towards the outside of the hub to expose the groove.
If you just had the hub rebuilt or pulled apart the tolerences and spacing will have changed. Slightly different dimensions on new aftermarket parts plays a part in this. Didn't they put in a new crush sleeve? That has to be the proper size to space out your inner and outer bearibgs, if it's to big your axle will not go deep enough to expose the groove for the snap ring.
With that said make sure the spindle but is at proper torque setting. This will pull all the bearings closer together exposing more of the axle splines. If that fails to work you you can put the whole axle assembly with the whole spindle into a press to push the axle through that little bit you need to get the snap ring on.
You could always pull the axles out and drive 2wd for a while.
SAS is above your head imho.
I had this same problem happen with me. I had a machine shop drill a tiny hole at the end, and I just slipped a cotter pin in it. Its in my thread, showing how it was done. and it only cost me a pack a cigarettes. guy was super cool about it.
When mine broke i was driving down Pac AVE and it would squell SUPER loud... like a wheel bearing. I ended up just pulling the CV out in my parking lot, and drove with out the CV till i got it fixed
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