Maloggy Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 So i was watching a bunch of videos on how to lower the 720, and it seems like you can basically lower it all the way for free if you know what to do? the from you can just lower the torsion bars right? and the rear you can run one leaf and move where the bushing goes higher on to the plate by the frame? i saw drop blocks were about 35-45 bucks. Im actually pretty stoked i thought i was going to have to spend some money since my coil overs for my rx7 were about 850 haha such a relief. Any other way to lower the truck? How do you notch the frame? I've heard of that. Has anybody heard of reindexing? someone mentioned that when i was asking about lowering my truck. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 There is a lot of info on this subject in the 720 section, you need to read some of the threads about it and see what others did, and there positive and negative effects, removing leafs is not that great of an idea, it leads to axle wrap. 720 4X4 leafs will drop your rear about 1 1/2 inches, that along with a 2 inch drop block will drop the rear almost 4 inches, the front you can adjust/re-index the torsion bars, but the best way is to buy drop spindles and then adjust as needed to level the truck out. The lower you go, the worse the ride unless you start doing some modifications. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 The front torsion bars can be adjusted lower but may run out of adjustment. In this case they have to be removed and replaced in another position to continue lowering... this is called indexing. Look this procedure up. In all cases of lowering the tire camber and toe in is affected and needs to be adjusted out or the tires wear and handling is severely compromised.. The rears should NEVER have leaves removed for lowering... EVER!!!. Two reasons... ONE/ the rear end is supported and prevented from moving side to side by the stiffness of the full spring pack. With one leaf it is too easy for the spring to shift sideways or twist when cornering. TWO/ removing springs makes the spring softer and it will travel further up and down. The last thing you want is increased downward travel on an already lowered ride. Goodbye exhaust system and transmission. Leaf springs from a 720 4x4 are flatter and stiffer and will drop the height about 1 1/2". In addition, lowering blocks placed between the axle and the leaf spring is a much better alternative to finish your drop. Lowering blocks do not affect the spring rate and only lower the ride height. All this is in our search function. Doing this right is just as easy. 1 Quote Link to comment
Maloggy Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 thnks for the info guys, I have been searching a lot up to be honest. I just like to talk about it to get opinions of people that have tried the procedures. and its just cool to have some conversation with the community Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Take it from someone who learned the hard way a long time ago with my old 94 Hardbody back in the 90's. Removing leaves makes for ZERO load capabilities, and cranking the torsion bars all the way down makes it ride awful and I had it flex over a speed bump and BAM! The torsion bar popped out of the rear mount. Then I learned later on 4" blocks with the stock leaf springs makes it too low. I hit a pothole and the lower leaf dug in. Broke the spring and wrapped the axle around into the inner fenderwell. My 720 is lowered about 2" in the front by turning the torsion bars and 3" blocks in the rear. I am going to do 4x4 leafs and spindles next spring so I can have a much better ride. I am getting too old for a bouncy ride. Quote Link to comment
Maloggy Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 so spindles with torsion adjustment in front, and 4x4 leafs with drop blocks in back should do just the right trick? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Pulling leafs can lead to some nasty issues, a member on here removed a leaf, hit the gas to hard, and the axle twisted so far that it ruined the carrier rubber piece, it literally pulled the driveline back that far. Can you imagine how far the yoke came out of the transmission when that happened. Quote Link to comment
Maloggy Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 oooooo man that sounds nasty. i guess its better to just get the parts and do it right the first time then haha Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Easiest way to lower a 720 is to put 155/55R14 tires on. Lowers it 4" with no mods at all. Improves drifting too. Quote Link to comment
Maloggy Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 yeah I'm also looking for some nice little wheels to throw on there as well Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 As for lowering the front, you can only go so far and the lower control arm bottoms on the rubber bump stop. At this point there is little to no suspension movement, without movement the shocks don't dampen sudden movement. Basically you are riding on the air in the tires... your 'suspension' is the tire. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Get some stock wheels. They are little 6x14s. Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Hell yeah! I had 195/60/14 BFGoodrich Comp T/A tires mounted on 7" wide wheels. on my old Nissan back in the day! Quote Link to comment
WooHooMobile Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 I used The 2inch drop spindles on the front of mine. 4 inch lowering blocks on the rear. The adj the torsion bars on the front to level out the truck. The front drives and rides pretty good. as far as it has full suspension travel, and dosent bump steer. tyres scrub and i dont have full lock anymore. The rear is no good. 4 inch drop puts the axle hard against the bump stops. it rides terrible. massive drive line vibrations. slams it ass on every bump... Check out my thread for a few pics etc My recommendations. 1. drop a heap of cash and get a customs shop to c notch the frame and put an air bag set up in. 2. Or if you have a Datsun budget, Get 2inch lowering blocks and adjust the torsion bars down. I highly recommend the beltech drop spindles if you can afford them. It may not get you entry into stance scene battle events. but you will be able to drive and enjoy the darn thing. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 I used The 2inch drop spindles on the front of mine. 4 inch lowering blocks on the rear. The adj the torsion bars on the front to level out the truck. The front drives and rides pretty good. as far as it has full suspension travel, and dosent bump steer. tyres scrub and i dont have full lock anymore. The rear is no good. 4 inch drop puts the axle hard against the bump stops. it rides terrible. massive drive line vibrations. slams it ass on every bump... Check out my thread for a few pics etc My recommendations. 1. drop a heap of cash and get a customs shop to c notch the frame and put an air bag set up in. 2. Or if you have a Datsun budget, Get 2inch lowering blocks and adjust the torsion bars down. I highly recommend the beltech drop spindles if you can afford them. It may not get you entry into stance scene battle events. but you will be able to drive and enjoy the darn thing. I am using 3 inch drop blocks, and I removed the bump stops, it hits lightly every once in a while, but I don't haul anything with it. I thought you guys over there in Australia could not lower your rigs legally. Quote Link to comment
WooHooMobile Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 2inches... up or down is allowed. Quote Link to comment
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