ggzilla Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 messed up the set screw for the fuel line..now it is leaking fuel..cant find a replacement..help?!Set screw implies adjustment. Do you mean the banjo bolt holding the fuel inlet fitting to the top of the carburetor? In any case you'll find a replacement at a junkyard on a similar carburetor. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 hhmmm very interesting. whats your opinion on copper head gaskets? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Very good. A $100 copper head gasket is better than a $20 one because it can be reused. So ten years from now the next time you need to rebuild the head you won't have to spend another $20 on a gasket but only $10 on copper sealer. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 ok..the problem..going down the road at any speed give it gas ..say to pass..stutters bad..what I have tried..new fuel pump and filter..adjusted float..just above the dot in window on carb..reuilt the carb..whats the next thing i should do?..could it be a timing problem..it does idle a bit strange..sits around 1000 and then creeps up to 2k sometimes it goes from 100-1500 and back down..back up back down..at a stop light..it will idle high until I put it neutral and take my foot off clutch then it idles down..any help would be great Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Turn the BCCD screw clockwise 1 or 2 turns. If that fixes the idle speed problem, adjust idle to 800 rpm, then adjust the mixture screw for best lean idle (as per your repair manual). Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 bccd screw? wich one is that..and i have not yet got the repair manual.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Actually turning the BCDD counter clockwise increases the threshold at which the BCDD is turned on. If you suspect the BCDD is on and not shutting off properly then it needs to be set less sensitive. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Counterclockwise will make it have no effect. If you adjust it properly it says you need an rpm meter and a hygrometer. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 ok..?..so take it to a shop? Im trying not to dump a bunch of $$ into having someone else fix it...I will try to figure it out or take it in thank for the help and knowledge Quote Link to comment
xsdg Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 (my initial thoughts, which don't take the clutch thing into account): stutters when you get on the throttle, and idles at 1000 and up to 2000? Sounds a lot like a vacuum leak. My truck had the wandering idle when I had a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft bore. That said, you say that the idle drops to normal when you put it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch? That seems highly unlikely. For this to happen, the things that come to mind are: (1) is your clutch not disengaging all the way? But that shouldn't cause you to idle high, since the Z24 doesn't have any kind of idle RPM feedback mechanism (2) Maybe something's up with your ECU? I do know that the ECU has a sensor to detect when the transmission is in neutral. Can you pay more attention to exactly what happens exactly when? If you put it in Neutral but leave the clutch in, does anything change? Does something change when you let out the clutch? What about if you push the clutch pedal back in? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Why take it to a shop? The BCDD valve controls the idle speed. Just turn it down, then you can test the stumble. There are two separate problems going on. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Counterclockwise will make it have no effect. If you adjust it properly it says you need an rpm meter and a hygrometer. I'm saying the BCDD is triggered too easily and has trouble shutting off. If set too sensitive it has trouble shutting off at idle. By turning counterclockwise you raise the threshold of where it is turned on and off. Why take it to a shop? The BCDD valve controls the idle speed. Just turn it down, then you can test the stumble. The BCDD should come on, on deceleration only but turn off at idle or just before. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 So what do you suggest? Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 working on the old problem..and we have a new one..the tack stopped working ..for a few it would come and go..how do i fix.. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Clean all the terminals. Common problem. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 the terminals the are on the tack? or the battery? sounds dumb to ask if you mean the battery they are new ..and back to the same old question why do i have a stutter when giving it more gas as in to pass if it was just a little one i wouldnt even worry about it..but its not just got everything else feeling right sounds good idles normal but when going up a hill or try yto give it gas to pass its stutters til i lift my foot a little Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 The tachometer has wire connections, yes. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 so I tried to get to the contacts by pulling the gauge cluster out forgot to unhook the speedO ..didn't want to come out that way so i put it back together..now the speedO is zero to 105 in ten feet.."gotta be a new record" and a new record for the stupidest thing to do after a 13 hr day and sun burnt to a crisp ta'boot any ideas what i did ? i thought i reconnected the speedO cable right but the needle jumps when i push on the cluster..oh and the contacts to the tack looked clean so thats not why its not working any other ideas ? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Sounds like the speedometer fitting got bent. I'd replace it with a good used speedometer. The terminals may look clean. A very thin layer of corrosion will cause jumpiness. Scrape each one with a screwdriver or use contact cleaner. Do this everywhere in the circuit, on each wire and connector, as well as the tachometer itself. I've fixed many tachometers this way. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 ok I am back..so the stutter is gone..i got sick of trying to source the problem..so i capped all the vac lines off.. truck runs tons better ..i have noticed it seems retarded and doesn't have any power to speak of..but going down the road lots better now...but climbing a hill forget it... gotta shift down to 1st and maybe get 10-15 mph if im lucky. not a huge hill kinda steepish but not extreme ..any advice? Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 My 720 did that when I got it. A tune up, new vac hoses, and timing solved it. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Yep. Adjust timing to 3 degrees, then adjust the fuel mixture screw for best lean idle. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 ok how do i adjust it to 3 degrees..a walk through or a quick step by step ..maybe..and thanks again guys for the help Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Do you have a timing light? If so, disconnect vac line to distributer after the engine is warm, attach light. Start your truck and point the light at the pulley on the crankshaft, near the timing marks. You will see where it is timed now. Loosen the distributer and turn slightly until the mark on the crank pulley matches the 3 degree mark on your setting marks. A bit of white paint on the notch on the pulley makes this easier.If you do not have a timing light, get one. You will not regret it. 1 Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 oh joy new problem ..so the guide for the timing chain drivers side decided it no longer wanted to belong to the truck..fished it out can some one please tell me how hard it is to replace Quote Link to comment
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