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carb trouble


eighty_six_720

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I just did the chain, tensioner, and guides. It came as a kit and gaskets were a separate kit. The job wasn't too bad, but have your confidence on and some manuals at ready. Cost was around $100, and it took a weekend the first time.

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Now that I am on my computer, not my phone, I can elaborate.

The timing chain kit was about $80.  It included upper and lower gears, chain, both guid rails, and new tensioner assembly.  It was available, in stock at my local parts store.  The gasket kit fits anything from an L16 to an L20, as both front cover gaskets are included, but I found the distributer gasket to be too small for my L20b.  Easy fix.

I had never done a timing chain, and did it on the road, in front of my sister's house with only the tools I brought.  I was able to very methodically do the job in two days of shit weather and many book and internet times.  I had not really wrenched in quite a while other than a few minor repairs here and there, and it wasn't a very difficult job.  This video was invaluable... 

Good luck.

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..which way does the crank bolt turn to loosen? and yup its a 27mm.. other then the starter trick any other tricks to break it free?I tried using the starter with a breaker bar on the frame and well that sob is really on there..so you think a impact will get it off..?

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The starter is 50 times stronger than in impact wrench and has masive gear reduction on the starter ring. Jump a fully charged battery on yours. It will come off. Be sure to take the coil wire off.

 

Engine turns clockwise so nut loosens the other way. Brace the breaker bar against the frame.

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I wedged a piece of wood in-between the cam sprocket and chain and was able to crack the crank bolt with a breaker bar.  I figured that I was replacing both things either way so a bit of damage wasn't going to be a bad thing.  I still used wood though.  Metal will surely cause damage.  That being said, the starter trick is a good one.

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got it off thanks for the idea of jumping my truck with another..worked the first try..ok got it all apart and all cleaned up ready to replace everything..which way does the oil slinger face its beveled does that side go in or out? and is the anything i need to watch out for tricks or make sure's?

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way off topic I apologize..ok so just replaced timing chain cap rotor wires and plugs everything  new ..pretty sure everything was right but on the test start ..doesn't sound like its getting any spark turns over but doesn't even try to fire NEED SOME HELP BAD

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1985 720 z24......is this correct ....that the pin on the cam should be at the 12 o'clock position and shinny link  on the cam at the #2 punch mark and the shinny link on the crank at the punch mark .. set the oil pump shaft at the 11:25 position and that should be all set correct..right then just put it back together and it should run..set the idle and we should be good to go..does that sound correct?

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.truck was running great key word was ..now it is running like shit..fuel is ending up in just about every hole in the carb and running really rough??? thought that the float was way high some how so i re set it  fuel was on the dot was running fine...till i went to leave this morning for work same thing happened fuel up on top the carb  so its getting way way to much fuel .. just pulled the carb off..had fuel in the vac advance line and the carb vent line??? wtf happen?..

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Did the top half of the carb jiggle loose?  I have had this happen to me recently.  Grab the top of the carb and wiggle it.  If it moves, take it off and tighten the bolts that hold the bottom on.  Mine has three underneath, and one accessible from the passenger side of the truck.

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