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Engine swap possible?


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However, the L20b exhaust manifold WILL bolt to the L16(as long as it's a square port manifold; if not, it will still bolt up, but you MAY experience some leaks). It will have a bit lower, but that's not an issue unless you're pretty low already.

 

You'll also need the throwout bearing and collar to match the L16 pressure plate; you won't be able to use the L20b clutch and pressure plate on the L16 flywheel.

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The 610's L20B should have the square exhaust ports as they all used the U67 head. 

 

The L20B exhaust manifold will certainly bolt to the L16 head... but it's the set up where the intake and exhaust are bolted together. You can just bolt the cover plate down over the hole , I just don't know if it will clear the bottom of the separate L16 intake.

 

620headU-67Large.jpg

 

They are bolted together and this plate is sandwiched between them. That's the hole in the bottom of the intake and the two barrels for the carb.

 

U-67intextmanifold001Large.jpg

 

Not saying it won't work. Measure the clearance between the L20B exhaust and the underside of the L16 intake. May work.

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  • 1 year later...

So I ran into a quik fix/issue today on my build.

I bolted a L16 down into a 610 wagon that originally came with a L20b engine. Only then did i realize that I forgot to measure the distance between the holes on the ring gear, I checked the the thickness and the diameter of each gear but didnt remember to check if the holes matched up, DUMBASS!!!!!!

Anyway, I crawled under and went to put in my torque converter bolts only to realize that the holes on the original torqu converter dont match the L16 Ring gear, the housings on the trannys are the same but the holes on the torque converter are at 9 in. and the L16 Ring gear holes are at 81/2 in. ( L20b Ring Gear have 6 bolt pattern where the L16 has 5)

 

So the quik fix, I found a socket to fit the center hole of the two ring gears, pinned them so they wouldnt move and made a template line on the L16 gear. I then carefully cleaned the holes up with a corse file drill bit. No slop what so ever........ 

 

so far I have only ran into needing a couple things off the original engine.......

Here are a couple parts from the L20b that we needed for the swap to actully work:

Oil Pan

Engine starter plate

Engine mounts ( of course)

Exhuast manifold

 

Any suggestions for my build are greatly appreciated!!

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So what you're saying is the 4 torque converter mount bolts are 8 1/2" (apart? or from the center? or what??) on the L16 and 9" on the L20B? Would really like to know what you measured.

 

The bolts don't align the torque converter, just hold it on.

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I do know what I measured and I made it fit just fine...

I even had a tranny guy look it over before i modified the gear..... it went together like it was made that way, LoL

Again... the L16 gear is 81/2 in. across from hole to hole., and the Torque converter from the 610 wagon that originally bolted to a L20b is 9in. across from hole to hole   (center to center of course) I had to drill out the extra to make the gear fit the 9in distance

Both tansmissions have the same bolt pattern to the engine. I just had to swap the plate

 

Do you have info on these trannys??

First came out of a 1971 510 SW L16

Second is from a 1974 610 wagon L20b

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I'm asking what the 8 1/2" and 9" were measurements to???

 

Obviously the holes aren't 9" or 8 1/2" so they must be the distances between the holes? or what???

 

 

The flex plate on the left is from an L20B. Can you show where you measured the 9"?

 

enginedriveplates78620and88D-21Larg.jpg

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