Single weber or duel webers for L18

[ggzilla]

Get a low profile (one-piece) adapter. Low profile air filters hurt airflow.

[ggzilla]

32/36 is a progressive mechanically operated secondary that opens whenever you put your foot down a ways. Even if you don't need it. But f you drive it lightly and if its jetted right, you can get close to stock fuel economy.

[JoeCool]

Get a low profile (one-piece) adapter. Low profile air filters hurt airflow.

That's what I meant to say...

 

And it sounds like I need to do a 32/26.

[ggzilla]

Just be aware that the Weber kit 32/36 is jetted rich, so runs OK but will get lousy mileage. Spend some time tuning (jetting) and the fuel economy will go up with no loss of power.

[blueribbon]

Thanks for the complement. Mine is a 73 so it needs no smog however, when it was built they designed things like the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) on it which in my understanding, restricts the motor. 

[smoke]

On the EGR...not really. It was often thought it was terrible, but on most engines, it's closed at idle and hard acceleration. It opens under light cruise when the engine is up to temp. The idea here was to put a little inert gas into the cylinder to cool off the temperature and make more of a controlled burn to reduce NOx. It does not cause any power loss and a neat side effect is that it can actually improve light cruise mpg. So, it's not really a bad thing when it's operating the way it should.

[blueribbon]

I stand corrected. AS you might have figured out, I am not a carb guy. I appreciate the info.

[smoke]

It was a really popular misconception a while back amongst most car guys (including myself). Anything that was not just your basic engine was costing power and was junk, so we yanked it all off and ash canned it. Come to find out, not all of it was terrible and I was a bit surprised by that myself.

[tr8er]

Yeah, now I'm having to add all that shit back in...

 

Regarding the 38/38 vs. the 32/36 decision:

 

I've got a 38/38.  Stage 2 Cam 485W 285 Duration.  Stock L16 exhaust manifold w/ 2" exhaust.  It is bored out a bit.  

 

I've not done everything to squeeze power out of this engine, but I've done some.  I still believe I should have gone with a 32/36.  If you punch off the line, it boggs.  When I shut off, she diesels unless perfectly tuned (no shutoff solenoid installed yet).  And fuel consumption is certainly not as good as stock, though not bad.  I can get 24-26mpg if I am just weekday commuting.  

 

I will state that the sound of the 38/38 is almost worth the headache.  When she is singing to me her contralto seranade, I am in a heaven that can't be described, only felt.  But this is really only during joyrides.  As a daily, it is too much carb for driving comfort.  

 

I recommend a 32/36.  If later on you crave more power, take on the engine mods first.  It is money better spent.  Then when you are done, consider your carb choices again.  

 

As a side note, I really did not like my Hitachi.  I rebuilt it once, and tuned it perpetually hoping I had something wrong.  In the end, I was convinced to go Weber.  Testosterone, and a Redline salesman got me into the 38/38.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

BE HONEST i LOVED MY 38/38. TR8ter

Yes it has the off line bog if you clutch it wrong . But above that idle spot its ggood and fun and sounds good.

the 32/36 you get the 2nd barrel bog if you punch it too soon. Unlike a stock Hitachi(thats smooth 2nd barrel trasition from the vauccum 2nd).

 

 

To stop the dieseling I would rev the motor up killing the key switch cause when the barrels are open. less vaccuum.

youll get the knack of it. Most happens on open chamber heads like the U67 which I have on my l16 and I need to run 91 octane also. might be harder if on regular and a really hot day..

 

Do a retime every now and then also

[tr8er]

BE HONEST i LOVED MY 38/38. TR8ter

Yes it has the off line bog if you clutch it wrong . But above that idle spot its ggood and fun and sounds good.

the 32/36 you get the 2nd barrel bog if you punch it too soon. Unlike a stock Hitachi(thats smooth 2nd barrel trasition from the vauccum 2nd).

 

 

To stop the dieseling I would rev the motor up killing the key switch cause when the barrels are open. less vaccuum.

youll get the knack of it. Most happens on open chamber heads like the U67 which I have on my l16 and I need to run 91 octane also. might be harder if on regular and a really hot day..

 

Do a retime every now and then also

I had a method that worked to kill without dieseling, and that was to pull the choke as I turned it off.  Don't get me wrong, I have had a ton of fun with this weber, and I'm not changing it, because I would miss it.  But it did take some time to get comfortable with it, and when I let anyone else drive her, I need to give them a lesson in shutting her off.  I have a feeling that if I started with a 32/36, I may have avoided much of this curve, and had an enjoyable ride from day one.  

 

But the engine was timed right, re-built weeks before the weber went in, and pertronics ignition.  

 

Bottom line, 32/36 for ease of daily.  38/38 for power.  Both will be plenty of fun as long as it's on a Datsun

[banzai510(hainz)]

Tr8ter

Since i had a L20 head I port matched the L16 manifold to the 1.375 size and hogged out the opening in the top of the stock L16 manifold. and I had a tall carb adapter and rounded out the corners on the bottom for smooth flow..

 

I would think having this set up on a L20 would be perfect. but since mine was a L16 it was a littl etoo much but after idle it was fine but ran really rich as my intake was balck including the plugs. Need ed to be down jetted as it was for a Lancruiser fj40

[tr8er]

BE HONEST i LOVED MY 38/38. TR8ter

Yes it has the off line bog if you clutch it wrong . But above that idle spot its ggood and fun and sounds good.

the 32/36 you get the 2nd barrel bog if you punch it too soon. Unlike a stock Hitachi(thats smooth 2nd barrel trasition from the vauccum 2nd).

 

 

To stop the dieseling I would rev the motor up killing the key switch cause when the barrels are open. less vaccuum.

youll get the knack of it. Most happens on open chamber heads like the U67 which I have on my l16 and I need to run 91 octane also. might be harder if on regular and a really hot day..

 

Do a retime every now and then also

Hainz, I'm curious to know more on the proper clutching.  Do you mean having the wrong clutch installed, or do you mean operating the clutch wrong.  If the wrong clutch installed is what you mean, what would you recommend regarding the clutch?  Is a lighter clutch, or a stiffer clutch better to deal with this bog?  I'd assume a lighter clutch is better, but I don't know exactly what you mean, so speak your mind.