Another WTF? Timing issue!

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

I have a new OSK timing kit. I thought they were supposed to be one of the good ones? Its crap. Theres no "V"s on the cam gear, the dots are only numbered if you have an imagination. Fortunately, two is always in the middle when you count from one to three. The crank gear feels like it should be press fit, I'll have to hammer it on, and I would rather not!

 

 

So.... Can I reuse the old gears with a new chain? Am I wrong for buying OSK? I want this thing back together asap, but I may need it to last a couple years, too.

 

 

[ggzilla]

What engine is it for?

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

Sorry. L20. 78 or 79.

[ggzilla]

L20B? Doesn't need any color links or Vs. Just line up accurately by eye.

 

Remove the key and see if it then slides onto the crank.

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

:frantics: BUT THE HAINZ VIDEO!!! :frantics:

Ok. I'll try that.

[bananahamuck]

You can make the V notches yourself with a circle center finder that you could probably buy at a art store,, or maybe office supply store, and a cold chisel. The lower gear being to small i don't have a clue but they are kinda tight. Maybe get both gear and engine same temp or gear a bit warmer.

[banzai510(hainz)]

MY OSK set is OK.

 

you dont need that much of a imagination to figure this out.

If you have the dimple in front of sproket and brite links on chain it will still work.

 

line lower crank up to TDC .thenput head on close to TDC. put the chain on using the brite links. I assume you want #2 dimple to line up the upper ink.

I line up the lower link fist then move the cam on top to get the brite link on the dimple with chain tite. then its pretty much good.

 

I notice on My OSK timming set the upper cam sprocket was more on the loose side putting it on the cam.

 

the Tsubaki set is the best(was cheap also) and looks like thats where nissan got them from. However Importedcarparts.com went defunt and cant seem to find the correct supplier anymore. Beck Arnely was another good one but havent see set sold anymore unless maybe you pc them together.

 

 

Most sets I seen lknow are the Melling, Cloyes sets and they have the lame upper sproket. and taiwan chains I think. It will work. otherwise might have to go nissan.

 

Most times all that is needed changing is upper sproket if teeth are sharp and the slack side guid and the tensioner that only needs replacing.

 

 

you can mirrow image cam sproket and put a mark on the new sproket then use a punch and mark it with paint. this will be close enought I would think. I also do this with the taiwan timming chains. I use a Jap chain and stretch them out,do the same with the non marked chain and line up side by side the links and paint mark them for the intial timming set up. Of coase the paint will peel off over time. when you mark then side by side the links separation will be the same. 40 l16/18 and 42 for the L20. I think thats what it is.

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

Thanks for the help, all. The gears looked good so I reused them. New chain, new guides. Just really disappointed in OSK. Should be buttoning up the front end in the next couple of hours.

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

Slightly related?  How bad is this? Im thinking fuckit, runit. But, the engine is out....

 

 

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f13/Dobber9million/20140226_102602.jpg

[banzai510(hainz)]

behind the water pump area? Look fine to me. I seen alot worse. Most of this happens when a bearing get loose on a pump and scares up the front cover undernath. long as you dont see cracks where water can enter into the oil pan.

 

as for OSK. I havent see anohewr truely Jap made timming set avail besides them latley. I have heard and see on here of set not being quite right anymore. I dont know if L motor sets are getting all used up and they just piecing them together now.

I also mix and match soem of my OSK and stock sprokets I have pulled out of other motors. The lower sprockets almost is never worn out.

 

 

buy the 50/50 mix anti freeze. then that front cover will last forever

[DaveyDaveDaveDave]

I marked the picture with whats concerning me. The vane, or whatever its called, where it goes separates the passage that goes back into the block. Its cracked off. I cant imagine it causing a lot of problems, but ive been wrong more than once. This one was bent. I tried to bend it back. But if it could be a problem, I'd rather handle it now. I have another cover that might be better. Might.

[banzai510(hainz)]

to me its all inside the main housing of the pump cavity and the outer gasket is going to hold all the water in my opionion.