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4" angled lowering block help


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Angle in, should equal angle out. On the rear driveshaft, the front U joint angle MUST equal the rear U joint at the differential.


Note that the left side remains at the same speed but the right has to spurt ahead then slow down to keep up. This acceleration will get worse the sharper the bend and cause vibration. The only way to cancel this out is to have the other U joint at the same angle and mounted 180 out so they cancel each other.





There is a measuring device for the driveshaft angles. Shimming the differential can be done to get these angles the same and well worth the bother. I lowered my 710 goon about 2" and the driveshaft hummed. I measured the angles and put the high part to the rear to tilt the diff down at the front. What a difference!!!.



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Mine was higher to the back tilting the front down. Wedge direction does not matter as long as the driveshaft angles are corrected and as equal as possible to cancel vibration. My 'wedge' was 1/8" higher on the rear of the block, but the difference it made was unbelievable.

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If you are just lowering the vehicle, use straight blocks.


Angled blocks are only used when transmission has been angled, or rear axle assembly has been rotated. Sometimes with a 4" drop the transmission is angled down and the diff angled up to match.

what he said^^^^^^^^.....IF your pinion angle reaches much past 3 to 5 degrees of negative pinion angle you may consider the tappered blocks.


Another alternative is bringing your vehicle and having the leafs de-arched to the height you want, no block to worry about.

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