orangie Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I recessed the SR20 into the firewall and it doesn't much leave room to route the brake lines on the back. It looks easy enough to only route two lines instead of four, but anybody do anything different like run the lines on a cross member or into the hollow spot by the windshield wipers? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I believe that it was member NIS720 that did this to his 720, he routed them into the cowl area. Also, if your remove the NLSV, you only need to deal with the two lines. Quote Link to comment
orangie Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I've gotta do a bit more research. I'm going to have discs all the way around and need to figure out what the bore of my master cylinder should be. Not sure I can fit a bigger booster with the turbo sitting there either. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 The clutch master and the steering column are the biggest reason a larger booster doesn't fit. I ran a Toyota 4x4 SAS on the front with the 4 pot calipers and the stock '78 master worked just fine. Rear disc will require swapping a disc brake residual valve into the master, no biggie. Quote Link to comment
15om Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I just finished routing the front brake lines for my SR 510 under the engine along the crossmember if you want to check out the last page of my thread. They came out pretty well Quote Link to comment
orangie Posted February 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 I just finished routing the front brake lines for my SR 510 under the engine along the crossmember if you want to check out the last page of my thread. They came out pretty well That turned out pretty clean, but I think I would add a soft line or a few coils to allow for body movement on the truck. I was thinking about using a short section of braided line instead of the loopy coils to save a little space and clean up the look. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 I'm not speaking from experience, but from what I've heard, hard lines are key to reactive brakes. Though a couple more short sections should be alright, right? There's several inches at the caliper already. I'm stoked for this step on my wagon. Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 i didnt take any good pictures , but i went down under all solid lines. i left plenty of spots for body flex. it didnt reqiure drilling any holes, i did have to tuck it above steering parts, that was the only challange i came across . Quote Link to comment
orangie Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 i didnt take any good pictures , but i went down under all solid lines. i left plenty of spots for body flex. it didnt reqiure drilling any holes, i did have to tuck it above steering parts, that was the only challange i came across . Take some pics, I'm can't picture what you did. I assume you made those loopy coils. Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 As luck would have it , I blew the trans pump yesterday and I had to pull everything back out (for the 3 rd time) I will take a bunch of pictures for ya today . Quote Link to comment
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