BigBearFoley Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I noticed you mentions lifting the bed for a fuel cell. Do you mean temporarily removing the bed? Or actually lifting it to fit a feul cell? Actually what I am talking about is doing a body drop essentially. I will cut the inner part of the bed and raise it up enough to fit the 5 gallon air tank and compressor. Along with the New fuel cell. I want to be able to lay frame when I park without damaging everything lol. I can point you in a direction of a link if you want more information. It's always worth it if you enjoy the process and the finished product Oh i know it will be in the long run but im more worried about the motor lol. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I'm mounting my fuel cell this week. I'm pretty low but I need to be able to use my bed for my motorcycles, atv's and hauling around stuff so I really dont want to cut my bed. I'm suspending my tank under the bed just enough to run a hose off the 45 degree cap straight to the factory gas fill location. I'll eventually build a steel enclosure around it to make it pass tech inspection as well as some frame bracing in the rear for some added street peace of mind. Quote Link to comment
collision and customs Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Make sure when you mount the KA it leans to the drivers side. A friend of mine did a NaP Z block with a KA single cam head and duel Mikuni's. It leaned towards the pass side like the stock L-series does and when they got it running fuel was comming out the velosity stacks, They cut the inake and repositioned it. 1 Quote Link to comment
bikeracer Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 "circus peanut" would be an appropriate name...since they are orange and goofy shaped Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I'm mounting my fuel cell this week. I'm pretty low but I need to be able to use my bed for my motorcycles, atv's and hauling around stuff so I really dont want to cut my bed. I'm suspending my tank under the bed just enough to run a hose off the 45 degree cap straight to the factory gas fill location. I'll eventually build a steel enclosure around it to make it pass tech inspection as well as some frame bracing in the rear for some added street peace of mind. Yeah I am hesitant on actually raising the bed all that much I have been looking into some options for this. I found some skinny 5 gallon compressor tanks that will work and allow me to only lift the bed a couple of inches. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Gallon-Air-Tank-Suspension-5-Ports-for-Train-Horn-FBSS-Compressor-Brand-New-/231100972033 I also have some other concepts that would build in a bench to the bed and some other weird ones. I'll post pictures of those ideas later. Anyways i want to be able to hual stuff as well so its a priority to not lift it as much as possible. Im hoping 4 inches or less. Also where are you mounting your fuel cell? and what capacity is it? I would love to see some pictures! Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Make sure when you mount the KA it leans to the drivers side. A friend of mine did a NaP Z block with a KA single cam head and duel Mikuni's. It leaned towards the pass side like the stock L-series does and when they got it running fuel was comming out the velosity stacks, They cut the inake and repositioned it. Thanks honestly I didn't even think about that. I'm sure I would have found out the hard way lol. Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 So Got word from the machine shop today im 5-7 thousandths of an inch off on all the cylinders. So im boring it to fit a 89.5mm piston and having it decked. Getting cast iron pistons since im not boosting and no need to. All and all, for the cleaning inspection and labor and parts im out the door at $450 so not to bad if you ask me. I expected to have to pay plenty more to have that done. Though it is more than i wanted to pay it's only a minor set back and makes my engine that much more reliable. Also decided to clean out the shed to be able to move in the work bench and engine parts once I am done with the motor build. will post pictures if any one cares lol. So ill have the block back on Monday at the latest. Then it is time to begin the transplant! with plenty of pictures I promise! Quote Link to comment
The Taterhead Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I care. And I'm waiting. Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I care. And I'm waiting. I haven't gotten the pictures uploaded yet but, I will get them up tonight or tomorrow at the latest. Although i did clean out the cab last night and took out everything but the dash and cleaned it out to make sure of any rust issues. Good news is there is nothing that is eaten through or any really thin spots. :) just surface rust and Alabama back road dirt. I found 2 dead wasp nests and some fun bugs dead in there as well. lol All in all looking good though. Through the cracked rear window... I know that I need new rear cab cards where those speakers are... I'll just make some out o the same material. Everything is getting wrapped in black or dark blue anyways. Dash is coming out tonight finally and going to start the electric while I wait to be able to get everything I need to rebuild the motor and finish the swap.(Gaskets, bearings, tranny rebuild, and driveshaft.) Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 So got the dash off to find a rats nest of wires that were splice in and lord only knows where they went to. Well i mean I know but shit it was a long haul to figure them all out. I found out the main reason for all of my power issues is there is no power getting into the cab. This is not only due to the fuse-able link getting through but the ignition relay as well. I am getting a generic automotive 4 prong relay today to test that theory. If that is it then awesome. I did hook a wire up from the positive terminal and honked my horns lol :rofl: it is the first sound i have made with the car lol. Though it was only hooked up from the battery and not for real it was still cool. My neighbors probably were not happy as I didn't realize it was already 10 pm when I did it. Any who got the harness labeled and ready to re wire what is not there. im going to replace all the fuses and what not and the relays in the engine bay. QUESTIONS?!?! 1/ who knows the specs on the relays in the engine bay specificaly the ignition relay? 2/ is there anything i should look for in the cab that would cause something not to work? are there any special grounds? 3/ along with that last question is it possible to just gook up the horn in the can and test that to make sure im getting power?? Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 (not trying to be a dick) A FSM is paramount for what you're doing http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1978-Datsun-Pickup-Truck-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-P17582.aspx?source=googleps&gclid=CL7ouMb_grwCFUiGfgodclAALQ Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 (not trying to be a dick) A FSM is paramount for what you're doing http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1978-Datsun-Pickup-Truck-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-P17582.aspx?source=googleps&gclid=CL7ouMb_grwCFUiGfgodclAALQ Right I understand that just figured i would ask before i bought was all. Is that the same thing as a haynes?? Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Right I understand that just figured i would ask before i bought was all. Is that the same thing as a haynes?? No worries.... 1000X better than a Haynes or similar. It's a Factory Service Manual, & they are year specific.... It's worth its weight in gold Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 No worries.... 1000X better than a Haynes or similar. It's a Factory Service Manual, & they are year specific.... It's worth its weight in gold So you convinced me I bought it yesterday and also decided to buy a Haynes because it was 2 dollars on amazon with free shipping! I did have a print out of the wiring diagram and that helped a ton! I got the ignition working last night after I replace the relay with one from radio shack for the time being. Next goal is head lights and Wipers. I figure one thing at a time is good with me :) Here is a quick walk around of the truck!!! Since I didnt take many pictures I felt a video would suffice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRCKW3ePAgM Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Well got the short block back yesterday and kept moving along with the wiring. Besides getting a piece of metal in my eye all is going smoother than i thought. Here are some pictures of the clean bored and decked block This last one is my favorite I didnt realize how short the frame actually is with the bed off it is crazy. I am in the process of handling wiring before i do the swap that way everything is in order. Hope to be done with that before the end of January Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 So here is a quick update. I am currently powderd coating my engine block and head a blue streak II or a Jollipop blue(both are dupont powder coatings.) I am actually doing it my self. I have all the parts to rebuild my motor ready im just waiting to powder them. Also i am waiting on a Intake manifold from Eagle_Adam if anyone has herd from him point him in my direction. So once the parts are powdered and they will be put together and put into the car. IO am removing the L20b if anyone is in need of parts for one let me know. Was going to try to sell it whole but I am not sure yet. If there is enough demand for parts ill part out and ship. Also getting a nice tax return this year so im going to be buying all me miscellaneous parts and my bag set up. Heading in the right Direction!!!!! Quote Link to comment
BigBearFoley Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 So This build currently got put on hold as my daily driver decided to explode internally. My Subaru Sti's boost controller failed and it continued to push boost after its stop limit was reached. I was doing 140+ pushing 32lbs of boost(my tune allows for 21lbs for reference.) It was so much fun but not worth the amount of money it is going to take me to get that motor running again. here is a picture of it on the tow truck. Also since I have alot of fabbing to do on the peanut i have to put that on hold and buy a new DD. I bought a 1989 Nissan 240sx(automatic granddad in a trailer park owned) that ran for 1100. Which around here is freaking unheard of because of all the drift tax. Since i had the 5 speed tranny I figured it wold be a easy swap out and it is. Just had to spend all of $100 including all the fluids! Just upped the resale at-least double here! Anyways with no further adue here is Zelda. oh and one extra to show my excitment!\ Quote Link to comment
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