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Wheel offset and camber fit


Dantheman

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Having trouble finding answers. Fitting my 510 wagon with wheels (14"/6.5") in front. Running stock strut assemblies with coil over mod and camber adjusters. Camber is fully adjusted. The rims have no tires yet. Dry fit and running a plumb string has the fender edge in line with the out side edge of the rim. My concern is tire rub. Help needed. Modify camber plates for additional adjustment or modify ZX struts?

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Tilting the tires in at the top to make them fit is... backwards. Camber is camber and should remain stock for proper handling and tire wear. Camber plates are for bringing the camber into specification not tucking tires. Sounds like you may be making the car fit the rims rather than the rims fit the car.

 

You don't want this...

AY0F3091.jpg

 

 

You can get adjustable length lower control arms to draw the strut/tire/rim inwards or get rims with a better positive off set that moves the rim edge and tire inward. Keep in mind that positive off set also moves the rim and tire closer to the strut tube.

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Thanks Mike, yes I have no interest in what is shown in pic. I have read as many threads as I can on the subject and still not clear on needed offset. Some are running 7" + rims. I thought a 6.5" would be pretty easy. I also read using ZX struts allowed for more rim.

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One thing I've noted is 4" backspacing is just about your max.  The ZX struts bring the hub surface inward nearly 3/4".  You can figure out your own measurements by pulling off a wheel and measuring from the outer hub surface to the fender lip; and, to the strut housing, or turn the wheels, put a flat rule or piece of wood, or straight level against the hub and 15" (for 14" wheels) from the center of the hub, measure the distance to the inner fender.  Those measurements will give you pretty good idea.

 

That said, with ZX struts, it seems to be a general consensus that 7" wide rims will work with zero offset.

 

Here are the measurements off my car:

 

My backspacing (front and rear) was measured a little over 4", so 4" should be safe.

 

Rear:

Hub to outer lip: 3.75”

Hub to inner lip: 2.50”

Front:

(Stock 510 struts)

Hub to outer lip: 3.25”

Hub to inner lip: 2.50”

(280zx struts) my current setup

Hub to outer lip: 4.00"

Hub to inner lip: 3.25"

 

So doing the math,  if I want to tuck my tires up inside my front fender wells, with 4" back spacing, that gives me 7.25" of room before the wheel rubs my fender lip...  But Tires bulge, so that adds up to 1/2" on both side of the wheel depending on the tire.  So to run a 7" wheel with the tires tucked up under the fender, I'd have to roll my front fenders....

 

If you've got stock 510 struts, your hubs surface is outward 3/4" more, so you would need near +19mm offset on 7" wide rims to keep the wheels inside the fenders.

 

.....It's late, you should check my math on that before you buy something......

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I bought a set of Watanabes at a swap meet. I was told they came off a 510. My wagon has clean stock fenders and I don't want to roll the fenders. The wheels are 14/6.5 in front with 4.5" from mounting surface to out side edge of wheel. They have no tires on them so difficult to check a rub issue, but looks like a problem.

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Rereading your posts, currently the outside edge of the wheel is in line with edge of fender. So moving to a 280zx strut will move the assemble inward 3/4". True? Is this enough to allow for a 195/60/14 tire? Thanks for the help guys.

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I bought a set of Watanabes at a swap meet. I was told they came off a 510.

 

Just something to remember next time:  Trust no one at a swap meet.  Just because something "comes off the same vehicle you have" doesn't mean it will fit your application the way you want it to.  Always measure first.

 

 

The wheels are 14/6.5 in front with 4.5" from mounting surface to out side edge of wheel.

 

Are you saying the back spacing is 4.5"?  Which would be measuring from the mounting surface to the outer edge of the inside rim.  Are you using a straight edge across the rim surface and measuring down?  If so, and you have 4.5" of back spacing, then you should only have about 2" of rim from the mounting surface to the fender, and that should fit perfectly inside your fender.  Are you sure the wheels are 6.5"?  Typically there is a casting or stamping inside the wheel that says what size they are, and often times, they will have the offset stamped there too.  Do your wheels have this?  How are you measuring them?

 

If you do have 4.5" of back spacing, and you put the ZX struts on, you may have issues fitting the wheels on the inside.....

 

How about some pictures of what your working with?

 

 

Just for reference:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/32359-wheel-fitment-and-wheel-basics/

 

And:

 

wheel_offset_diagram.gif

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Just something to remember next time:  Trust no one at a swap meet.  Just because something "comes off the same vehicle you have" doesn't mean it will fit your application the way you want it to.  Always measure first.

 

 

.

This is so absolutely true.

 

Never never never buy rims and then have to make the car fit them. Like marrying your high maintenance girl friend...it never works out. You never know where it rubs until to late.

 

Find out what will fit your car for rim size, width and off set first... then fall in love.

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My measurement of 4.5" is the backspace. The inside bead to inside bead measures 6.5" and 7" outside to outside. This is considered a 6.5" width as your picture shows. With this rim mounted on my stock strut with coil over and camber plate adjusters puts the outer edge of the rim in the same plane as the outside edge of the fender. Reading that the zx assembly with move inward 3/4", this will gain the needed room. You have also made the point that it may hit on the inside with the strut change. Can you tell me what part of the strut construction is different? Spindle? As far as the pictures are concerned I must be a huge idiot because I have never had success uploading them.

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I know I know..... great advice. Been wanting a set of these for a while and couldn't pass up on the price.

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I know I know.... I always wanted an Asian chick. But I got sensible and married a red head with large breasts and skinny arms. I know now that it was the sensible thing to do. :lol:

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With this rim mounted on my stock strut with coil over and camber plate adjusters puts the outer edge of the rim in the same plane as the outside edge of the fender. 

 

Since you haven't said yet (as far as I can tell), is the suspension actually compressed? Or are you taking these measurements with it at full droop?

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Reading that the zx assembly with move inward 3/4", this will gain the needed room. You have also made the point that it may hit on the inside with the strut change. Can you tell me what part of the strut construction is different? Spindle? 

 

The design of the strut/hub is slightly different as it puts the hub face closer to the strut tube. Since it moves in, you need to see if you have 3/4" space or more between the wheel and the stock strut tube to see if once the 280ZX struts go on if you'll need a spacer to prevent rubbing. 

 

 

And fuck these guys. There's nothing wrong with making the car fit the wheels.   :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

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I'm thinking of rolling the fender, which weakens it structurally. Or flairs or god forbid box flairs. This offends me as it mutilates the body which I think should remain untouched.and pure. Well, as original and pure as possible. It's a 510..... it should look like a 510.

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I'm thinking of rolling the fender, which weakens it structurally. 

 

Untrue. And quite frankly, necessary for almost anything but the stock sized tire and wheel. 

 

 

Well, as original and pure as possible. It's a 510..... it should look like a 510.

 

Rolling fender lips is invisible to any one looking at it. 

 

 

And there's no reason to roll the fronts. The factory already did.  :rofl:

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