pondking Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 I think the screws that came with the tranny are completely off what was the original screw measurements? i believe its suppose to be 4 L18 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 If your stand is like mine you will want to get longer bolts. And get something good like grade 8 its not worth saving a few bucks and risking a bolt popping off and dropping your motor. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 If your stand is like mine you will want to get longer bolts. And get something good like grade 8 its not worth saving a few bucks and risking a bolt popping off and dropping your motor. Grade 5 or better if you are tooling the engine while on the stand. And you will most likely need longer bolts or chop those mounting tubes on the stand. Though make sure there is still clearance for your drive shaft to clear the plate. And hope you don't need to change out the main seal while on the stand. Fastenal or Grainger will have the right bolts. And get some washers to fine tune the length. Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Would this work for every L-series? 1 Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 i think i replaced most if not all of the bolts that came with my engine stand, because some of them snapped just during assembly i believe they were 4.4, and replaced them all with 8.8. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 If your stand is like mine you will want to get longer bolts. And get something good like grade 8 its not worth saving a few bucks and risking a bolt popping off and dropping your motor. . L and Z series head bolts are M10 X 1.5 I believe. Probably too long Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I use old head bolts and stacks of washers to bolt L series to engine stands. Haven't dropped one yet! Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I got some at napa they told me 8.8 is 5 grade in metric ?? worked good enough hopefully thanks for the help also I was wondering do I need some special tools to rebuild and engine I bought the book how to rebuild you OHC engine coming to my mailbox soon but I am anxious to start Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I got some at napa they told me 8.8 is 5 grade in metric ?? this is correct. http://www.thermosealinc.com/THERMO_RESOURCES/Bolt_Grade_Cross_Ref.pdf http://www.qldcorvetteclub.com.au/tech/tech_talk/bolts.htm i must admit that i thought 8.8 equated to higher than a grade 5, but it doesnt really matter, 8.8 is used throughout the vehilce and is much more than 'strong enough' for just about everything. read through the book a few times. you shouldnt need any special tools. you will probaby need to go to a machinist though. and they will have the tools THEY need but you wont need much for the actual assembly of it. special items you might not have: -plastigage for installing the bearings -assembly lube -10mm allen socket -various torque wrenches -ring compressor some of these tools can be borrowed (for free, but with deposit) from oreilly/similar parts stores. Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 I appreciate the info I am having trouble removing the last main cap (at least I think thats what its called) Its the u shaped block that holds the crankshaft also having trouble removing the oil breather screws I think they are starting to strip and that crank sprocket was the worst Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 yep those are the caps. increase torque by increasing your leverage or wacking the wrench with a piece of wood or mallet. and the oil breather screws on mine were super easy. you gotta use a #2 philips. if not, you can grab the outside of the head with vice grips Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 got em out but I have found a bigger problem I think the owner before me cracked a water pump screw the upper left one and Im thinking about buying a extractor other than that Im going to start the rebuild Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 learned about engine balancing thinking off getting a lighter flywheel suggestions anybody? (L18 5 speed) but not sure what tranny it is I saw datsun parts llc has clutch kits I dont understand the stages though? and I used stripper to clean the paint off the block is it okay if i dip it in hot water and CLR? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 the different stages are in regards to how much power youre making. i think youd be fine with whatever stage 1 is if youre close to stock power or even with a few add ons. dip your iron block into water/clr? yeah i think thats ok just as long as you dry off and or blow all the air out of the block. and then hit it with a rust preventative for the time being (either wd40 or a rag with engine oil will do) Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 I took it to the machine shop they cleaned it took out a broken bolt now I'm cleaning the oil vent filter with gasoline but I'm wondering how to identify a timing cover mine says on it 10 6 upside down 63 thanks for the responds 1 Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 i think the timing covers are the exact same for the l16 and l18 the l20 is different because of the taller block height also, the L6s have the same timing cover as the L4s, but im not sure WHICH l4(s) Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 As far as Flywheel goes; I'm running a 17lb flywheel. It's about perfect for the L20B and 71B trans in my '71 510. Personally, if you're going to keep the car on the street, I'd stick between 17 and 22 lbs. The lighter the flywheel, the more you have to rev the engine to get it to move from a stop, but the easier it zings to the higher rpms. Like with every performance engine part, it's a compromise. Easy street driving, versus high rpm driving. Stage one clutch should be fine for the street, as long as it's of some quality. If you can afford it, have the engine balanced. Also have the head totally rebuilt while it's off. Don't half ass the head. It will cost more time and money down the road --> That's a "been there, done that" moment talking.... more than once too. :blush: Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Don't half ass the head. It will cost more time and money down the road --> That's a "been there, done that" moment talking.... more than once too. :blush: Some things must be learnt first hand. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Datsun engines are well balanced from the factory. The don't need to be balanced unless rods, crank, or pistons are changed. The engine is internally balanced so lightening the flywheel shouldn't change the balance as long as it was machined on a lathe. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Datsun engines are well balanced from the factory. I did not know that. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
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