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I just bought an engine stand but


pondking

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If your stand is like mine you will want to get longer bolts. And get something good like grade 8 its not worth saving a few bucks and risking a bolt popping off and dropping your motor.

Grade 5 or better if you are tooling the engine while on the stand.  And you will most likely need longer bolts or chop those mounting tubes on the stand.  Though make sure there is still clearance for your drive shaft to clear the plate.  And hope you don't need to change out the main seal while on the stand.  

 

Fastenal or Grainger will have the right bolts.  And get some washers to fine tune the length.  

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i think i replaced most if not all of the bolts that came with my engine stand,

because some of them snapped just during assembly

i believe they were 4.4, and replaced them all with 8.8. 

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If your stand is like mine you will want to get longer bolts. And get something good like grade 8 its not worth saving a few bucks and risking a bolt popping off and dropping your motor.

.

L and Z series head bolts are M10 X 1.5 I believe. Probably too long

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I got some at napa 

they told me 8.8 is 5 grade in metric ??

 

worked good enough hopefully

 

thanks for the help

 

also I was wondering 

do I need some special tools to rebuild and engine 

 

I bought the book how to rebuild you OHC engine 

coming to my mailbox soon

 

but I am anxious to start

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I got some at napa 

they told me 8.8 is 5 grade in metric ??

 

this is correct. 

http://www.thermosealinc.com/THERMO_RESOURCES/Bolt_Grade_Cross_Ref.pdf

http://www.qldcorvetteclub.com.au/tech/tech_talk/bolts.htm

 

i must admit that i thought 8.8 equated to higher than a grade 5, but it doesnt really matter, 8.8 is used throughout the vehilce and is much more than 'strong enough' 

for just about everything. 

 

read through the book a few times. you shouldnt need any special tools. you will probaby need to go to a machinist though. and they will have the tools THEY need

but you wont need much for the actual assembly of it. 

 

special items you might not have:

-plastigage for installing the bearings

-assembly lube

-10mm allen socket

-various torque wrenches

-ring compressor

 

some of these tools can be borrowed (for free, but with deposit) from oreilly/similar parts stores. 

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I appreciate the info 

 

I am having trouble removing the last main cap (at least I think thats what its called)

 

Its the u shaped block that holds the crankshaft 

 

also having trouble removing the oil breather screws 

I think they are starting to strip

 

and that crank sprocket was the worst 

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yep those are the caps. increase torque by increasing your leverage or wacking the wrench with a piece of wood or mallet. 

 

and the oil breather screws on mine were super easy. you gotta use a #2 philips. if not, you can grab the outside of the

head with vice grips

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  • 2 weeks later...

learned about engine balancing 

thinking off getting a lighter flywheel 

 

suggestions anybody?

(L18 5 speed)

but not sure what tranny it is 

 

I saw datsun parts llc has clutch kits 

 

I dont understand the stages though?

 

and I used stripper to clean the paint off the block 

is it okay if i dip it in hot water and CLR? 

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the different stages are in regards to how much power youre making. 

i think youd be fine with whatever stage 1 is if youre close to stock power

or even with a few add ons. 

 

 

dip your iron block into water/clr? yeah i think thats ok

 

just as long as you dry off and or blow all the air out of the block. and then

hit it with a rust preventative for the time being (either wd40 or a rag with engine oil will do)

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  • 2 weeks later...

i think the timing covers are the exact same for the l16 and l18

the l20 is different because of the taller block height

 

also, the L6s have the same timing cover as the L4s, but im not sure WHICH l4(s)

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  • 1 month later...

As far as Flywheel goes;  I'm running a 17lb flywheel.  It's about perfect for the L20B and 71B trans in my '71 510.  Personally, if you're going to keep the car on the street, I'd stick between 17 and 22 lbs.  The lighter the flywheel, the more you have to rev the engine to get it to move from a stop, but the easier it zings to the higher rpms.  Like with every performance engine part, it's a compromise.  Easy street driving, versus high rpm driving.  Stage one clutch should be fine for the street, as long as it's of some quality.

 

If you can afford it, have the engine balanced.  Also have the head totally rebuilt while it's off.  Don't half ass the head.  It will cost more time and money down the road  -->  That's a "been there, done that" moment talking.... more than once too. :blush:

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