Z-train Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Is that a "red wire" in place of a fusible link?If so,really,REALLY not a good idea,especially since you are having electrical issues right now. Also,as to batteries-there is no rhyme or reason for them to drop. They can be 2 hours,2 weeks,2 months or two years old. Nature of the beast. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Get some new battery cables as well, the reusable terminals are a good emergency fix but good cables are the way to go Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 whats the red wire mean? fusible link? your talking to someone who knows very little about electricals. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Fusible link is a wire that looks like a wire but isn't-got that? It's actually a fuse that is designed to burn in the case of an overload.From the picture it LOOKS like just a red piece of standard wire especially with those connectors. If so,your wiring harness has no protection and COULD be melted into a mess if something shorts. You can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/30amp-Automotive-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B005LQ301Y Providing it's the proper value. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Thanks for that info I wish i could take it some where to be worked on i dont have the time anymore with school and work Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Does this... Look like this?... The last two pictures are from another post. He's having charge problems on a 510. Note the extra lug that there is no wire for on both of these Chinese pieces of shit. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 yes it does identical almost and they told me three times after three weeks of waiting that it was correct. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 what does that lug go to? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Have no idea. It's up to every Datsun owner to know what they have and what they want. Parts counter guys know shit about our cars. Don't listen to them. If you buy Chinese made crap because it's all you can afford I understand that, but expect problems. A $40 lifetime replacement alternator you had to take off and take back 4 times in a year and a half, twice leaving you stranded on the side of the road in the dark waiting for your wife to come get you, is way worse than a good $150 one. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 suggestions on where to find a better one or which one to look for? Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 anybody? ive called all of oreillys and autozone and bumper to bumper, napa, etc. around here and they all told me that either a. they didnt carry one or couldnt provide one or b. remanned in china.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Go over to the SEARCH function, top right hand side of every page. Type in GM alternator swap. There are lots of How-To s for this. Research what is best and available to you. Some of the newer 2000 alternators are smaller than you need but high output. I have a 90 amp 240sx on one of my 710 and a 100 amp 2001 Altima one on my 710 goon. Not saying it will fit a 620 but there has to be one out there that does. OR Start a want to by as here.... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/7-electrical/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc You probably will have to pay shipping but a good used one is better than most of the stuff out there. Remember it has to be for a '78-'79 truck as they are physically smaller in order to fit in that space between motor and the frame without hitting the idler arm. Car alternators have more room and are larger and have higher 50/60 amp output. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks yall got it all figured out got a 720 alt on it now charging at 14.39 Volts! I got a few new issues though... I need to find out how the temperature gauge works because my gauge doesnt work... also im curious as if to removing the taillights and wiring in two of those led light bars would work with DOT? im thinking about putting one up behind the backglass and one under the tailgate? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 The temp sender is located on the front of the thermostat housing below the upper rad hose. It has a single Yellow/White stripe wire to it. How it works is... a small voltage regulator in the in the dash gauge cluster supplies about 8 volts to both the fuel and temp gauges the other end is a variable ground through the senders. If you pull the wire off the sender and hold it to the block, grounding it, it should read full HOT with the ignition key in the on position. If it does, but not when connected to the sender, then the sender is presumed to be bad. If the gauge still does not move possibly the gauge or the wire is faulty. If by chance your gas gauge is also not working then the voltage regulator in the dash is likely bad. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 If by chance your gas gauge is also not working then the voltage regulator in the dash is likely bad. Odds are about 8 out of ten you're right.The other two are pinched wires where they go thru the bottom of the cab. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 gas gauge works fine just the temp is always way below cold even on 50 60 mile trips to the folks place but ill have to wait until my wife gets back from arkansas to test the wire thanks guys. If it wasnt for ratsun this broke ass college kid would be riding a ruckus lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 ... I need to find out how the temperature gauge works because my gauge doesnt work... Just to be clear you're saying the gauge does not move or read anything????..... gas gauge works fine just the temp is always way below cold even on 50 60 mile trips .... Or does it read very very low. Because this last statement seems to infer an extremely low reading. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 i dont think it works it stays in the same spot at all times so its not reading anything Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 well then... If you pull the wire off the sender and hold it to the block, grounding it, it should read full HOT with the ignition key in the on position. If it does, but not when connected to the sender, then the sender is presumed to be bad. If the gauge still does not move possibly the gauge or the wire is faulty. Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 okay new neighbor came over to help me test it found out for sure that gas gauge is working correctly as i just filled it up and it is at F where as it was about 3/4 and the wire to the block test shows that the temp is all the way to the H side so for sure the sender is bad correct? if i remove the sender will a lot of oil or coolant come out as im not supposed to do mechanical work at my house because of rental agreement Quote Link to comment
r@+5un620 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 tomorrow i will attempt to clean sender and check and see if the connection may just be bad but im out of daylight for today and i have two online class tests and seminars... Quote Link to comment
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