510 to 280zx brake conversion

[Mountains6]

So I know you need rotors, calipers, and master cylinder. If I go with T3 coilovers both rear and front do I still need front struts? Also do I need 280zx hubs?

[thisismatt]

You can buy just the coilover sleeves, or complete struts with inserts from T3, so yes or no.  Looks like you will have to provide the hubs either way.

[datzenmike]

280zx hubs have a larger bearing so they won't fit a PL510 strut.

[DatMo]

Depending on what you want.

Try a local jy first.

pick up the 280zx struts clean them up and just pick up the sleeves and camber plates if you want from t3.

the 280zx assy comes with bigger brakes and lowers the car an inch or two without a sleeve for anything.

[KlassicMotion]

I concur, just find a whole '81-'83 280zx front strut/brake setup (early brakes are different).  Larger bearings, larger brakes, front wheel width is decreased by 1/2-3/4" so you can tuck your wheels inside the fenders better, and it will lower the front up to 1 inch automatically.  If you're going for low, then you will have to cut the struts housing down either way you go...  I've had luck just buying a whole 280zx for $600, then I take the struts, brakes, transmission, wheels and tires, and part out the rest, and I made back my $600 + $200 on top of, the parts I kept.  Now for the rear brakes, you will need an adapter.  And the parking brake setup, you will have to get creative. 

 

For rear adapters and parking brake setup, I bought everything from Josh:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24498-the-phoenix/page-19

 

On the master cylinder;  if you are converting the whole setup, then I'd recommend using the 15/16" '79 280zx master cylinder (all though I think my '82 master cylinder I ordered was a '79 but it came with an adapter for the later mounting, so you might be fine to order the later master and remove the adapter).  If you are only going to upgrade the front brakes, then use the 13/16" master cylinder as I believe it was designed for front disc/rear drum setup... It's working well on my disc/drum setup.

 

If your not familiar with brake hydraulics, read this: 

It's good info.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56933-brake-hydraulics-explained/

[datzenmike]

I concur, just find a whole '81-'83 280zx front strut/brake setup (early brakes are different).  Larger bearings, larger brakes, front wheel width is decreased by 1/2-3/4" so you can tuck your wheels inside the fenders better, and it will lower the front up to 1 inch automatically.  If you're going for low, then you will have to cut the struts housing down either way you go...

....y..e...s. But in order to use zx struts the lower spring mount has to be cut off and the 510 spring and perch used anyway. Where you set the lower spring perch can be made adjustable by using split collars and at least a couple of more inches is available. WARNING!!! I should mention that the only safe way to do this is to cut the spring to increase the spring rate OR replace with a higher spring rate coil. There is the very real chance of bottoming the strut out otherwise. Stock front 510 springs are about 89 pounds/inch and often they are increased to over 300 for racing and over 200 is common for the street.

 

 

On the master cylinder;  if you are converting the whole setup, then I'd recommend using the 15/16" '79 280zx master cylinder (all though I think my '82 master cylinder I ordered was a '79 but it came with an adapter for the later mounting, so you might be fine to order the later master and remove the adapter).  If you are just going to upgrade the front brakes, then use the 13/16" master cylinder as I believe it was designed for front disc/rear drum setup... It's working well on my disc/drum setup.

This is definitely a good idea if you have a brake booster. This is what I have on my 710 with Maxima calipers, vented rotors and struts and the brakes are superb. A 15/16" might be a bit stiff without the booster, I can't say on this. The stock 3/4" master will work but may feel mushy. A 13/16 as Klassic suggest might be a good compromise.

 

Yes the 280zx and the Maxima 15/16" masters were set up for front/rear disc and will have disc brake residual valves front and back. You can easily convert them to front disc/rear drum by swapping your current rear drum residual valve in. This is what I did with 15'16 Maxima master. It's so easy.

 

These go into the master where the hard line comes out. Watch out they look identical so don't mix them. The disc residual valve has a lighter spring (although I couldn't tell apart by looking) that keeps about 3 PSI in the disc brake circuit. A drum residual valve keeps about 10 PSI.