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Brake Hydraulics explained


KlassicMotion

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I'm in the process of converting my 510 with the 280zx setup (front struts, disc brakes front and rear, and 15/16 master cylinder).

 

There is much controversy over which Master Cylinder is the best.  Most obviously, going with the 15/16 that was on the 280zx should be the best option, but that system was designed for a power booster, so a firm pedal is the result.

 

While doing some research, I ran across this article.  For anyone wanting a thorough explanation of how the hydraulic components work in your brake system and how one component affects the other, read this article.

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/

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I will have to read that article at lunch ... thanks for posting it!

 

It's simple math guys - it's a ratio between the input and the output.  The input volume being at the M/C, the output being the combined volume of the calipers (or wheel cylinders) adjusted for the proportioning valve (if there is one).  Larger input equals more force into the system.

 

The power booster is not needed for the brakes to work - it simply amplifies the input pressure applies by your foot.  Just because the donor M/C was part of a brake system that used one, it doesn't mean you have to have one ... but if you can make one work (eg: Geo Metro???) you might like the feel of the pedal better.  That's all that is.

 

FYI - For those who don't want a vacuum type booster, there are other options: http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ehpm.html

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