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Question About the 411


LackofGuilt

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Question is for how much, we will let you know if its a good deal or not.  the SSS model is the best one in my book to find, since its got the r16, and better grille. 

 

But if not complete, stay away, unless its a full car like ive bought, and then sold, good luck even finding a know for it. 

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In my opinion, don't trust, "I have spent a year working out all the mechanical problems and it's now road legal, running and handling great."

 

One possible translation of that could be, "I thought I could work on this, because it's a simple old car.  It used to run 'okay,' but I screwed it up and can't get it to run right.  In addition, my work is such an abomination that you will have to re-engineer everything from scratch, including the wiring"  That would be a worst case scenario, but it happens more often than not.  Maybe it does run well?  Who knows?  It's surprising that he didn't post any engine bay pics.  You can tell a lot about a back yard mechanic based upon how "clean" their work is.

 

I believe the L in RL or PL simply means it's left hand drive.  The W probably means wagon.  I'm not sure what the R and P stand for.

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its not.... i had an opportunity to trade a 710 wagon for it and jumped at the opportunity..

 

 

i was nowhere near ready for the project so it and all the parts i have are in storage until i wrap up a few other projects 

 

heres a link tho 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50523-1967-sss-rl411/

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w is wagon, r is the 1600 designation, the sss and 1600 trim are basically the same minus the emblem. p is for the standard model, 1300 in 67 back in 65 i think it was the e-1 1200 motor. the l is indeed left hand drive. it looks like a solid car, ive got the glove box door, and could make a copy of my tray if properly persauded..... im on the look for those pdfs of the manuals... i seem to have misplaced the file....

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Body, look for the usual condition, especially the lower front fenders just behind the wheels.  They are a water magnet and prone to rust.  The rear corners of the sedan roof, and probably the wagon also, are prone to rust spotting since these are the low corners and have no drain holes.  Non-shrink, non-hardening body panel sealant used to seal the roof to body gap [the roof is spot welded inside the rain channel and depends on sealant for waterproofing the gap] DOES shrink and crack after 46 years so check for hairline cracks and rust bubbles in the rain channel.

 

Intake air filters are I would say impossible to find and fit under the original filter housing.  The 1600 roadster filter looks similar but is too long.  Individual motorcycle filtersss may fit?  Erich may have an input on that.  He made his own intake filter box for an engine swap a few years ago.

 

Wheel covers, are of the original 1500 roadster "Port Hole" 13 inch variety.  Many people fake wheel covers with Pinto covers which vaguely resemble the PL411 slotted wheel covers but with fewer slots.  Cosmetic item, not a make or break to a deal.

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When you've owned the same car for going on to 46 years you get a good feel for all the PininFarina [designer] design defects!  "Form over function" seems to be their mantra.  It looks good, what do we care if it won't last.  Thankfully Datsun gradually overcame the most egregious faults with the first generation 410s by the time they upgraded to the 411 variant, but the basic compromises that PininFarina made in developing the unibody construction are a "live with" and repair as required fact of life.  I am not really complaining or trying to dissuade you, I am very satisfied with my RL411.

 

P.S. behind the rear wheel wells is a cavity.  It has a press board insert on top to give a flat rear trunk [or wagon] floor.  The cavity has drain holes inside the rear wheel arches.  They work, but also in reverse!  If you are in a let's salt the roads area the salt WILL migrate into the cavity and start the usual rust process.  I pulled the fiberboard covers, cleaned and sprayed with rustoleum and then low density foam filled the cavities and sealed every body to rear wheel well seam with the same foam.  If you wait until the foam has just about finished expanding, you can compress the top surface and get a firm top layer that looks like the fiberboard surface.  Using a flat board with waxed paper overlay insures a smooth surface.  The finished faux fiberboard can be spray painted to match the rest of the trunk interior.

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yeah mine doesnt have a chunk missing, well one has a small tear the other i believe to be percect..... i ve got a few parts to say the least, just usually the stuff no one needs, i parted a 67sss wrl that was taken apart adn just ruined by the previous owner to build my 67sss rl sedan. i can honestly say sdie from the rear halfcut i traded to someoen i unbolted everything off it and kept it all, the actuall body was all that got scrapped,still have almost everything else from it.

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