L20B piston

[datsunaholic]

It kind of makes sense- the aluminum pistons are going to expand more than the steel wrist pins, so interference fit in the pistons would end up becoming float anyway.  It just seems difficult to get a rod end properly "centered" on a wrist pin, rather than centering it in a piston, since it's inside the piston when it's fit.

 

Well, learn something new...

[EricJB]

Connecting rod oven.

 

[datzenmike]

Forgot about this post. Here's what I did to get floating rods...

 

Borrowed a brake cylinder hone. Takes about maybe 2 minutes total overall. Pin is hand started and a very tight fit to start and you just keep at it with many test fits. Eventually you can tap it in fully and back out with a soft hammer. I stopped at this point and actually used a small flap wheel The inside of the rod will show where the pin is tight. Took forever to polish it enough loosen it so you could just barely slide it in and out with your finger

 

The stock KA has an oil hole on top so I copied it ...

 

Small groove to spread the oil

 

 

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[Stoffregen Motorsports]

How much work is it to machine a pressure fit wrist pin piston to become a floating pin piston?

You can hone the small end of the rod to make it a floater, but you have to drill an oiling hole in the top of the rod (right under the piston) and chamfer it pretty good. If you don't create an oiling hole, they won't last long. 

 

Edit: I didn't read the whole thread through before replying. I see someone beat me to it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Connecting rod oven.

 

I've never used an oven before. I've always just used an oxy/acetylene torch, justr be careful not to overheat the small end. I use a method called "chasing the ghost."

 

And centering the pin is easily achieved, you just have to be quick about it before it cools enough to grab.