Rebuild: 240z/260z/280z Front Calipers (applys to many datsun's in general)

[I'm BLUE]

I just got done rebuilding my s30 front calipers , and decided to share.

 

My main goal was to re-freshen and clean the brake system in my 240z.

We all know that brake systems can work ... just what percentage or ability will they work when they are truly needed ?

I suspected mine to be slightly gummy (no hanging or pulling just a sneaky suspicion on my part)

Yes these calipers are cheap just to buy and replace regardless.

 

STEP 1: --- obtain a pair of donor calipers or prepare you current set.

I opted to pull a spare set off a pair of spare struts.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 001 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

The wet part was from the hardline dripping down when disconnected.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 002 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 2: --- having equipment to push the pistons out.

You can either use hydraulics (like I'm doing) , air , or grease to push out the caliper pistons.

(Whatever you do BE CAREFUL ... Keep your eyes , hands , and body away from the pistons especially if using air or fighting a stuck piston.)

In S30 front calipers there are (2) pistons total.

This picture is my 12-ton press holding a 200sx clutch/brake pedal bracket with the 200sx clutch master hooked up directly to the donor s30 caliper via the hardline.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 003 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Somebody could even use the brake line/brake master off their own s30 if they were sneaky enough about it... :sneaky:

 

At this point I went ahead and filled the Clutch master cylinder with DOT-3 brake fluid.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 004 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 3: --- Grab a 10mm flare nut wrench , and hooking up the clutch master hard line to caliper.

If using air... that will be self-explanatory as will a grease gun.

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 005 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 4: --- Go ahead and carefully ,,,, and slowly pump the clutch pedal with your hand. (or air compression ... or grease gun if you're using those methods instead :) ).

You DON'T want (1) piston to pop out much farther and faster than the other.

The key is to wedge and get them both loose while still have a seal on the piston for each side.

I used wrenches in a pinch in the picture , but you'll want to use something softer like wood or even an even steel plate/brake pad will be fine.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 006 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 5: --- As soon as you believe both pistons are as far as they'll go EQUALLY (key term and goal here) without breaking their seal ... go ahead and pop out one piston then pull it out. (keep hands free and clear !)

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 007 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 6: --- There will be a mess just remember that.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 011 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 7: --- Go ahead and carefully pull out the other piston.

At this point you've lost your hydraulic pressure , and this would happen if you had used air pressure or the grease gun method as well. ( remember not suppose to use petroleum products on , in , or near brake systems even for cleaning !!! )

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 012 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Set down both pistons on a soft surface. I'd recommend keeping the dust-boot retaining springs until you verify your new ones are BETTER than the old ones ;)

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 013 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 8: --- Inspect pistons.

Determine whether you believe the caliper pistons are re-usable or not.

In the pictures below (1) of my pistons just need to be cleaned up a touch in a couple areas and the other was near perfect (where it counts).

I decided to re-use them both.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 014 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Don't let the picture deceive you ... this piston isn't bad really.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 015 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

 

 

(posting more)

 

[I'm BLUE]

STEP 9: ---- inspect the piston sealing surfaces and caliper bores.

Piston sealing surface looks GOOD :thumbup:

Notice (in the picture below) that the piston does not have a seal installed on it.

It's because the calipers have the seal installed in the bore not the piston ( in-case anyone was curious ).

(Dust shield and retainer spring are at the top).

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 016 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

this sealing surface is good as well. some *slight* scuff on it , but very little in reality.

Have no reservations on re-using.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 017 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

bore on one-side needed a little clean-up (not anywhere near what the picture depicts it to be ... remember rust is easily mistake for varnish/gum and visa verica)

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 030 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

other side doesn't need anything. Looks good !

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 035 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

 

STEP 10: --- Clean the pistons and bores AS well as the hydraulic passages (take caliper apart).

Bleeder valves and seats need attention as well.

I also used a little 600-grit sand-paper in some areas just for a very LIGHT clean up (won't hurt a thing on this configuration and setup).

Remember... you're only suppose to clean brake systems with brake fluid and or compressed air (recommended to my understanding).

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 037 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 11: --- While cleaning everything DON'T forget to take out the old caliper piston seal from the bore !

A sharp pick and or small screw-drive as well as a steady hand shall do the trick.

Make sure the machined groove in the bore is cleaned well.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 038 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 039 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 041 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 12: --- After everything has been cleaned , and your piston is waiting to go back into the bore...

go ahead and re-install the piston seal at this point.

Make sure to pre-lube it with either Brake Fluid or APPROVED caliper grease (do your homework to make sure it's safe to use ;) )

I personally just used brake fluid and generously applied (not to much or you'll be fighting it on install !! )

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 043 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 13: --- Go ahead and pickup then lubricate your piston with some DOT-3 brake fluid and simply gently as well as squarely push it into the bore.

(NOTE --- This is much easier to do if this style of caliper is un-bolted as in both halves are seperated).

I'd recommend to open up the bleeder valve as well before trying to push it in too far.

You can put the dust-boot on now ... or later ... I found it didn't matter that much , but if you install later it lessens the chances of it being damaged in the process.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 042 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

(more posts coming)

[I'm BLUE]

STEP 14: --- Next we do the dust-boot and retainer install.

I simply to the caliper in my 12-press again to hold it while I was working (3rd and 4th hand so to speak).

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 044 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Push down on the lip all the way around to make sure the dust boot as sealed on the piston lip as well as the caliper lip perimeters.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 046 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Gran your dust boot retainer ring and install it.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 045 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 050 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

STEP 15: --- Do all this mentioned above from the start ^^^ to your other caliper and you end result is (2) rebuilt calipers.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 051 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Feel free to install them on your ride.

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 058 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 062 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 063 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 064 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 070 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

Blue Z-car front caliper brake rebuild 071413 072 by 71240z, on Flickr

 

 

The end results for me were more balanced and smoother braking.

I know for sure my system is as close as it will get ( in stock s30 form ). You know what though ? It's pretty good !

I am satisfied , and I hope some of this helps another datto guy.

 

Thanks for reading

 

DTP

[darrel]

You don't recommend breaking it apart to replace the orings between the halves? FYI, the dorman rebuild kit only has one small oring, but two are needed.

 

 

Thanks for the informative post!

[datzenmike]

Good info. This will make it easier for anyone with a caliper to get it done. These are similar to most other calipers even the single piston ones. Just remember surgical cleanliness and lube with brake fluid only.

 

I know this is a brake item, THE biggest safety devices on a vehicle and in most cases I would say buy rebuilt or new ones. If you are confident and careful there is greater satisfaction in doing them yourself than the money saved. It also gives you an appreciation of just how the brake fluid and pistons work to push the pads against the rotors that is far beyond pictures on line.

[Dawa]

You don't recommend breaking it apart to replace the orings between the halves? FYI, the dorman rebuild kit only has one small oring, but two are needed.

 

 

Thanks for the informative post!

was gonna say the same thing. ive rebuilt a few z32 calipers and supposedly nissan does not recommend braking the halves in two. 

and if you do you should replace the o-ring(s?) (hard to find) as well as have the torque spec for re-torquing the bolts. 

 

other than that, good write up

[I'm BLUE]

You don't recommend breaking it apart to replace the orings between the halves? FYI, the dorman rebuild kit only has one small oring, but two are needed.

 

 

Thanks for the informative post!

crap ... THANKYOU for adding that darrel !! ( people looking need to know , so good catch ! )

 

That is what needs to happen , and I only received (1) in each kit then decided not to do it this time round because that reason. In my mind I ended up skipping it and forgetting to mention that ,,, @#@$ ... ( as well as not doing it ... hence not taking pictures .. I remember recommending splitting to clean somewhere , but yeah ...  d'oh ! )

 

I'll popped one apart and add that into the mix above in the original posting :thumbup:

 

I honestly shouldn't have been doing this yesterday as I wasn't well, in a bad-mood because of so , and of course ... lack of sleep.

 

I'll probably replace those o-rings on them here soon.. or whenever once I get my hands on more ! (and motivation + time)

 

Good info. This will make it easier for anyone with a caliper to get it done. These are similar to most other calipers even the single piston ones. Just remember surgical cleanliness and lube with brake fluid only.

 

I know this is a brake item, THE biggest safety devices on a vehicle and in most cases I would say buy rebuilt or new ones. If you are confident and careful there is greater satisfaction in doing them yourself than the money saved. It also gives you an appreciation of just how the brake fluid and pistons work to push the pads against the rotors that is far beyond pictures on line.

 

Thankyou datzenmike. I completely agree on everything ^^^ 100%.

I could have been cleaner myself (to be straight) , but did what I could in the end as I was attempting to be careful guess that's what counts :) ( realizing 100% that's for future lookers ;) )

 

GREAT tips for future members or current ones :thumbup:

 

was gonna say the same thing. ive rebuilt a few z32 calipers and supposedly nissan does not recommend braking the halves in two. 

and if you do you should replace the o-ring(s?) (hard to find) as well as have the torque spec for re-torquing the bolts. 

 

other than that, good write up

 

Well if you were going to reply that as well I'll Thank your-self as well Dawa ! :thumbup:

 

Thanks for that !

[darrel]

Nissan also recommends you not rebuild carbs and at least a couple dozen other things. Honda does the same thing. Like their igniter module on my accord, they recommend replacing the whole distributor.

 

Just because they don't recommend it doesn't mean it can't or shouldn't be done. And can be done well. That's one of the reasons the Haynes manuals was made. My factory manual on my honda doesn't have a procedure to check the igniter module, the Haynes manual did.

 

I don't know if dorman has added the second oring needed, this was about 4 yrs ago I got my kits. I had to order another set and rob the parts.

 

Keep the write ups coming DTP.

[I'm BLUE]

Thanks darrel I appreciate that !

 

I ended up with caliper re-build kits from Rockauto.com ...

All were the same brand as well as part # , but some were made in the USA and some JAPAN.

Some seals were loose rattling around in the box , and the others were neatly packaged.

Learned my lesson on that aspect... you do get what you pay for ... or at least you think you do ... :lol:

 

Should have done the other irregardless for sure , and that one was totally on me :) !

 

:thumbup:

[darrel]

I don't blame you for not breaking them apart. Usually they don't need replaced, it's always the piston seals and dust boots. It doesn't help that the rebuild kits aren't complete either. 

 

true torque D35667

wagner-F96717

bendix-66721

raybestos- wk667

made in canada

allparts from PA

 

I thought they were dorman.

[I'm BLUE]

I don't blame you for not breaking them apart. Usually they don't need replaced, it's always the piston seals and dust boots. It doesn't help that the rebuild kits aren't complete either. 

 

true torque D35667

wagner-F96717

bendix-66721

raybestos- wk667

made in canada

allparts from PA

 

I thought they were dorman.

 

Oh yeah .. we have the same thinking there !

 

The rebuild kits I used/have (just checked a minute ago) were all Bendix #66721

Some looked like old enough stock... some looked somewhat newer .. (boxes and conditions ... label fading etc)

 

I wasn't surprised what I had seen in the variations (mix n match or poor/damaged packaging).

[darrel]

All those numbers were on the my packages. And yet they still shorted one small oring. I did contact the manufacturer. That was after I went back to the store and ordered another set to get the other parts. Not sure if the manufacturer fixed the supply problem or not.

[I'm BLUE]

All those numbers were on the my packages. And yet they still shorted one small oring. I did contact the manufacturer. That was after I went back to the store and ordered another set to get the other parts. Not sure if the manufacturer fixed the supply problem or not.

That's good you let them know that though man ! I may just do the same.

 

I also kind of wonder if I received old stock , returned items , or damaged during shipping items ... masked as a "wholesaler closeout" or "sale" special ... that would make sense on quite a few items I have bought over the years. I do know some of these boxes look like they've been damaged then shipped ... and damaged again before coming to me :lol:

It seems to be the trend.

Thats my bed that I made and might as well lay in it :lol: ya know :)

[darrel]

I bought mine through advance/big A auto parts. 

 

Rock auto can be hit or miss. I have also tried partstrain with good success on steering parts for my 620, except for the driver side tie rod.