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Yellow SR510


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  • 2 weeks later...

So as you might have guessed by now, the car didn't get done in time for the car show. Still a few things left to do BUT....

 

He did send me some teaser photos of what it looks like so far!

 

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That looks like sex and candy. From these pictures though, it lappears there's more than a few thing left to do. Wiring, fuel lines, vacuum lines, cold air intake, not to mention the entire front end. Given Andrew's pension for perfection you are going to need an extra helping of patience. Waiting is HELL, but all good thing.

 

How are you guys planning on stabilizing the upper cross member without the center support bar? I used my intercooler as support, but your's sits a few inches lower than mine. Looks like your I/C is well supported though, so may you can mig weld some threaded aluminum spacer in there. 

 

Hang in there 15om, you obviously have good things coming.

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Everything is pretty much ready to go: wiring is ran and just needs to be plugged in, fuel lines are now finished, front bumper and headlights are on. Battery is in, cables are ran, he fabbed a cool aluminum piece for my glovebox where he will be mounting all the relays and computer. Also, he just figured out where hes going to mount the coil packs last night. We haven't really talked about how to stabilize the top front cross member so im not sure. I know up and down its very secure with all that added metal and welding he did.

 

Here are a few pics

 

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Completely hidden underneath the intake manifold! Man, Andrew is a genius. We had talked about a few options about mounting the coil packs but never really liked them because they would be so displayed and in your face. Then he sent me those pictures of where he ended up mounting them....wow! just wow...

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I've seen the remote coil packs done on the SR, but I don't understand the thinking behind this mod. I always thought the direct connection to plug delivers the strongest most accurate spark. I know the super high HP guys (500 plus) are doing it because extreme heat fries the packs, but is there other benefits? Or is it more of an esthetic choice to keep the valve cover clean and open without the plate? 

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I've seen the remote coil packs done on the SR, but I don't understand the thinking behind this mod. I always thought the direct connection to plug delivers the strongest most accurate spark. I know the super high HP guys (500 plus) are doing it because extreme heat fries the packs, but is there other benefits? Or is it more of an esthetic choice to keep the valve cover clean and open without the plate?

 

No, running a coil directly on top of the plug compared to further away has no measurable effect on how well they work. Everything comes down to the capabilities of the coil itself. The very first upgrade that you can do on an ignition system would be to run a coil per cylinder setup. Obviously this is already the case for the SR, but in terms of many old school engines where a single coil is used for all cylinders, the coil is not able to achieve proper charging to discharge at maximum output. This is big issue, so by adding a coil per cylinder you add time for each coil to charge properly.

 

Next upgrade to think about (or in terms of the SR20 the first upgrade to think about) is the coils themselves. Not all coils are created equal, and when you compare the capabilities of the stock SR coil to an LSx style coil (the ones on this car happen to be LS1 coils) its almost laughable at how vastly different they are. In terms of real world I have found that typically if you run an alternate fuel such as E85, more than 12-14lbs of boost or really lean the AFR out for good cruising MPG the SR coils just can't perform at an acceptable level. Changing to high quality coils will give you better cold start, idle, throttle response, power....its pretty amazing the difference.

 

For a quick example of just how powerful these LSx coils are; A guy I've had many conversations with told me his experience with his 540 cid twin turbo BBC. He was running a halltech EFI setup at the time with MSD 10 series box, distributor, coil...all the very best MSD products he could for ignition. When he switched to E85 he raised the boost to 20lbs, but at about 5000 rpm it'd start misfiring real bad and lay over. He said he tried everything he could to get a different result, but nothing worked. He had purchased a FAST setup with the XIM box for coil per cylinder and decided to just do the swap. He got a used set of LS1 coils and ditched all the MSD crap and with no other changes all his misfire problems went away. To emphasize how drastic the change was, with that exact setup he eventually ran the engine over 30lbs of boost on Methanol at 7500 RPM without even a hint of misfire. That was all with .035 gap in the plugs too.....on stock LS1 coils. He dynoed that engine at 1800 hp and 1800 lbs ft of the torque on E85.

 

On the last SR20det I setup in a 510 I was able to run it at almost to 17:1 AFR at about 2400 RPM doing about 60mph on the freeway, no way an SR coil could handle that. It also had zero issues with E85, 7000rpm, 22lbs of boost and almost .040 plug gap. Also not something I'd attempt with SR coils.

 

The only drawbacks to converting away from the stock coils are 1.figuring out where to mount them so everything looks nice 2. making plug wires, or ordering custom wires. There are however tons of drawbacks to the stock SR coils, and all of them effect drivability, power, fuel mileage and longevity. I won't ever do an SR install without swapping them...I also do the same thing with the MAF too...throw it in the trash!

 

 

Andrew Peterson

Andrew's Tuning and Performance

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Thanks for posting that Andrew. Great explanation written in plain English. So clear, even I can understand it, and that's really saying something. I have a Link G4 ECU and would be interested in doing this swap once I tune on E85. Any adivce on particular LS1 coil I should look for, how to correct for dwell difference, etc? 

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  • 7 months later...

Its been a while since this thread was updated, but a ton of work has been done, and the 510 runs and drives now. I am finishing up a few more things on it before it will be driven regularly, but its turned out pretty nice. Still have some tuning to do, and need to set up the tablet dash panel so all the gauges can be read. Here are some fairly recent pictures of the engine bay though. 

 

There are some things in the engine bay that still need to be changed, like all the blue couplers will get changed to black. The rear fuel rail hose needs to be changed (one of the new red and black AN fittings leaked right away). And I think I'm going to try and have a custom spark plug well cover plate made for this car. 

 

 

Andrew

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Took another drive yesterday evening with Andrew after he did some tuning from earlier in the week....and WOW! It is running so smoothly. He says there still is some adjustments to be made but just with last nights tune, it feels amazing. Can't wait till it's completely dialed in and has some gauges so I can drive it regularly.

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Wow, you got to love it when the shiny bits go on. That grill is slicker than snot on a door nob man. Do you have a center badge for it? Once you get the bumper and lower grill piece in there, the IC should blend right in. You may not even need to paint it black. It's a cool distinction of the early 510s have, they look much more JDM than the 70s cars. My first 510 was a 68, but I was 17 and didn't appreciate what I had. I wanted the "newer" look. Grass is always greener syndrome.

 

Keep up the good work, Spring it upon us.

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I agree with the look of your front end without a bumper. Don't know what it's like in Chico, but in my experience nothing attracts CHP like missing safety equipment. Akin to a blown tail light, it's a gimmy to pull you over and fish for other stuff. A fix it ticket is no big deal but you get an officer with a bug up his ass and things can get real. You could get a paintable fiberglass bumper for $175, or carbon fiber for $280

 

http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=20&Itemid=38

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Ok, so I've been working on some of the electrical stuff to get all the features set up with megasquirt. This setup is running a DIYPNP unit that I built and modified. I also added in a tinyIOx module which communicates with the megasquirt over CAN. The plan for this car is to finish a custom dash which houses just the tablet. I got most of the tablet working today and its doing almost everything I wanted it to do. I still need to run the fuel gauge wire into the pcm, and I need to test the connection with the oil sending unit, but everything else seems to be working. I am run shadowdash app with custom gauge designs. I also set this car up to run automatic headlights too. It runs an ambient light sensor that will be mounted on the dash, the sensor runs to the pcm and then the pcm turns on the low beam relay. All that stuff will get sorted out after some of the initial more important things are finished. Here is a little video of it in all its glory. I will try to upload the HD version of it later, but it only looks crappy because I didn't have wifi to upload to youtube. Also, don't mind the AFR, its swinging like crazy due to the battery voltage compensation setting that isn't right yet. 

 

 

Andrew Peterson

Andrew's Tuning and Performance

 

 

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