Rear Disk Calipers: Eliminate Banjo Style Fitting

[Dzaster]

In converting my wagon to rear disk brakes the original drum setup had the threaded male with flared hardline direct to the wheel cylinder.

The new disk brake setup caliper uses a banjo type connection.

I'm wanting to eliminate the addition of rubber or SS braided hose to make the connection. Wondering if anyone knows of an adapter to get the banjo style caliper to accept directly the male threaded flared hardline.

I came across this:

www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=370&part=ALL50120&add=no


Its 1/8 NPT male to 3/16 female inverted flare. There is also a 3an male to 3/16 inverted female.

Will either of those work or came someone link or suggest something that will?

[510T]

If you are using Nissan calipers they will be 10x1 (metric).

 

Maybe use what you have and put a copper crush washer in between the caliper and the fitting if the caliper has no flare seat.

[Silky_Johnson]

I just got done putting discs on the back of my goon.  Why do you want to eliminate the soft lines?  I used 1983 200sx calipers and brackets, and the stock setup on the 200sx includes soft lines to the calipers.  I figure a person would want to keep the soft lines and banjo bolts for various reasons, not the least of which is that the caliper is self adjusting and will travel slightly as the brakes wear.  I was also considering hard lines straight to the calipers, but the 200sx hoses mounted up so nice that I decided to use them instead.

 

Autozone carries the correct banjo bolt in stock, at least they did at my local shop.  I couldn't find them anywhere else, or I wouldn't have "gotten in the zone."  Dorman part No. 13912 is what you're looking for.  It says it's for GM cars, but it's the right M10 x 1 thread pitch.  I also have two extra banjo bolts that I bought from Pegasus Racing - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8385

[Dzaster]

Id like to have one lessconnection point(reduce chance of failure) as well as well as maintain a firmer pedal. Even stainless braided will have some give/expansion, although less than rubber.

 

Plus, the solid axle doesn't need a flex hose.

 

I actually have stainless braided with banjo end that will work. Need to get the banjo bolt but seeing if there is a conversion adapter to just go straight hardline.

[Dzaster]

oh and you cannot just add a crush washer as the pressure from flare fitting to flared hardline end is cruicial to prevent leakage.

[Dzaster]

Sorry. Double post.

[510T]

You are right the hardline fitting would not work with the crush washer.  I'm still recovering from last weekend, brain is cutting out...

[Dzaster]

haha! all good. I pondered it for a brief second myself.

[Dzaster]

Here's what I'm wanting my connection to be.

 

 

 

 

 

And possibly, almost the right fitting???

 

 

 

 

 

I say "possibly, almost" because I think it needs to be M10(10mm) still on the female end that is to receive the brake hardline and not 3/8-24 threading.

[Silky_Johnson]

Seems like an awful lot of fuss to eliminate "hose flex" to me, but to each his own.

 

Yes, you need M10x1 on both ends if you want to use the stock hose with the new caliper.  That said, you may be able to find a conversion/adapter brake line or something?  When I was at Baxter's last, they had lines that had American threads on one end, and metric on the other.  So, from the "T" on the axle, you would of course use M10x1, and then for the caliper side you may be able to find a hose with a 3/8x24 thread on the other end for your adapter?

 

Another option may be to get a fitting that goes on the end of the hard line to keep the banjo union?  Female banjo adapter?  http://www.brakequip.com/fitting8.html

 

;  https://www.denniskirk.com/H19871.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CPHv8oDfpbcCFaaDQgodNRMALw

[Silky_Johnson]

http://www.brakequip.com/fitting8.html

 

"BQ61" in this link would do the trick?

[Dzaster]

That would work too with more flexibility to tie in the hard line, as long as it accepts the flare correctly.

 

I'm going to spin by a local hydraulics shop and see if they have something like that BQ61 or similar.

 

Either way its a "fuss" really. Going with SS flex line I'll have to shorten the hardline, re-flare it, create a fixed mounting point for the hardline/SS flex line connection to prevent the hardline from experiencing the movement/vibration of the SS flex line.

 

However, having that flex line would allow the removal of the caliper without having to crack the brake line--thus eliminating having to bleed the brakes.

 

Thanks for that link and brain-storm. If the local shop don't have an adapter I will probably just get the SS flex lines to work. Will post back.

 

Thanks!

[thisismatt]

Eliminating the flex line with discs is stupid.  Without the flex line you won't be able to easily move the caliper out of the way when changing pads or rotors. 

[Dzaster]

I realize that. Even if I didn't that'd make me stupid???

 

Go easy slick!

[hosestop@msn.com]

Hey if you need hoses one piece from center of car send me an email to Hosestop@msn.com I can make three hoses if needed each side is like 30" + _ - I can measure my wagon for size with banjo as needed , I am a brakequip dealer ,check out rears in classified for idea what you need .Whatever your needs .

[thisismatt]

I realize that. Even if I didn't that'd make me stupid???

 

Go easy slick!

Don't know you.  Just the idea is stupid.  Are you eliminating the flex lines from the chassis to axle too? ;)

[Dzaster]

@ hosestop, I think I got these covered but could use some lines elsewhere. Will be in touch.

 

@ matt, I'm not eliminating any flex lines "too". Anything flex hydraulic there now will simply be replaced with braided lines.

[Shogun]

hey where are my rear discs?

[Dzaster]

Huh?

[Silky_Johnson]

hey where are my rear discs?

 

Where did you leave them?

[Dzaster]

Done. Now need some SS braided lines for fronts and axle-to-chassis.

 

Hosestop email coming!