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620 KC overhaul


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Rethink using those 240SX seats. Non of my friends and myself that own S13's like them. They are uncomfortable. The S14's have same mounts and are a way nicer seat.

 

 They certainly dont look very comfortable the way they are contoured. I do like the look of the S14 seats more than these, but they arent at the top of my priorities right now. I am glad that the S13- S15 seats all use the same mounts. Thats very helpful for when I do upgrade.

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So I had all week off of work, and got nothing done to the truck...

 

I spent all week prepping my bathroom for paint and finished most of the painting today. This upcoming week I am taking the old tile out to lay some new tile. I suspect this will take some time away from the truck.

 

What I was able to do FOR the truck was prepare for the wheels to go on. I hadnt thought of this as an option, and had initially planned to swap the entire rear axle for a 5 lug option. I ordered some 6x5.5 to 5x4.5 adapters on the net. These things are going to be 2" thick, but I think they should work well given my test fitment with a block behind the wheel. Unfortunately the hubs will have a 14x1.5 stud which is larger than the front 12x1.25 studs. I ordered some lugs for the rear and will use the OEM 240sx lugs on the front.

 

I am going to call my local firestone about tires tomorrow, and then drop off the wheels you see above to get fitted. 

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Got the wheels back from the shop, not excited about them. I was in a bit of a rush and didnt have much space in my car so I didnt look them over before cramming them in. After getting home, there are quite a few wheel weights on the outside of the wheel, quite unsightly.

 

A bit more on that... I asked the tech to use weights clamped to the edge of the wheel because I didnt want stick on weights to fall off (mainly because the barrels are filthy). If they needed to, I asked them to use stick on weight for anything that would be on the face of the wheel, and clamp on weights on the back side. Guess my message didnt get across... I dont know if I really want to bring them back though.

 

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Anymore suspension work?

 

Ive been lax on that since attaching the coilovers. Im doing some work in my bathroom (alongside procrastination) that has been consuming much of my time. In the next couple weeks I will pull the cab off and set it down to get access to weld in the towers completely. Once the first three below are done I think I can comfortable install the engine and put the truck on its own weight.

 

So for the front I need to:

Weld on fourth support

Fully weld each tower supports

Attach cross bracing/gussets on the towers

Finish DS radius arm/mount

Make mounts for the front sway bar

 

Looking good!

Thanks! Been a slow few weeks. Hope to have some other projects finished next week so I can get back to it.

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Exciting day. I was able to do something I have been waiting on for a long time, and it only took about 30 minutes alone. I will save the welding of the towers for another day and will more likely mount the transmission and engine in the mean time. Guess that means I need to order a clutch and flywheel. What do you guys like in the flywheel department? I assume a lot use the OEM flywheel, as lighter wheels dont have as much inertia when spinning and drop revs faster. I don't think that's beneficial if you're hauling something, but I don't know. Anyone care to enlighten me?

 

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I finished putting the wheels on all 4 corners and ordered rotors for the front. I hadnt thought about the fact that the 4 lug rotors wont work on a 5 lug hub  :blush:

 

I decided to test out the towers so I lowered it down on its own weight and took the strut bar off. It didnt flex like it would have with just some tack welds, so why not put the motor and bolt the trans to it? :w00t:

 

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Not sure what the header situation is going to be with the steering rack right there.

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I believe this was the piece underneath the 4speed that was in the truck, and I assume (cant remember) it was resting on a rubber bit at this transmission cross member. Is that correct? The crossmember needs to come back slightly but that doesnt really look feasible without much modification. I think instead I am going to weld a plate to it to lengthen it to the rear.

 

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Better picture of the distance

 

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Just curious.  Why didn't you use the the transmission mount as your starting point to mock up where the engine "cradle" should have been welded in?  Unless you were intending to bring the engine further back maybe?

 

That's exactly what I was shooting for. I mocked the engine position up with the cab on to see how far off the firewall I was comfortable with and to maximize space in front of the engine. It hadn't occurred to me where the trans crossmember would fall, but I just assumed I would make one. Looking at it again, I may cut out the center, shift it back, then weld it back in.

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  • 3 months later...

Not too much happening over here. Im nearly finished with my bathroom which means I will be spending more time in the garage. I need to pick up a heater (electric) to keep me from freezing once the cold sets in.

 

Since my last update, I have welded in the fourth strut tower bar, finished my modified trans cross member, and started cleaning the frame. Im trying to get rid of the 240sx shell in my driveway so I can wheel the truck out and pressure wash the crap off.

 

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I need to figure out how to take this tank off before the bed comes off. Also, its got quite a bit of fuel that I need to figure out how to dispose of...

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sweet build! i just started mine yesterday. I was living in norfolk for a while with a 78KC that i was planning to do this to, but im over in cali now with a 74.

my truck has that same square type duel tank on it. it had no visible nuts to remove it, so i just gridded off the heads of the hangers that are in the bed and it dropped right off.

do you notice any flex in the towers with load? i was thinking of doing mine with 1"1/4 - .120 the guys at Ramey Built told me to use 1"3/4 for the towers, but that seemed a bit overkill, and by the looks of it, a bit tight to leave room for the top mount and fitting the coilover.

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Small world! Thanks for the info on the tank, that will give me something to work on this week.
 
I plan on adding some gussets at the base where the tubing attaches to the frame. I will also add some smaller diameter tubing between each of the towers to tie them together (or just skin them with some sheet metal). 3 tubes tack welded in presented some deflection but once I fully welded them in there was none, and the fourth added even more stiffness. I walk across it every day to get to my tool box, and I dont notice it moving (not that I weigh enough to present real world conditions...)

 

I wouldnt hurt to go with a larger size tubing, you can make it stronger with fewer lengths, less reinforcing. I saw a picture while perusing the other day (cant find it now) but there were two tubes that connected to a open-bottom box where the strut mounted. It had a curved design and looked really clean. If I had the ability to do that, I probably would have :)

 

I had shawn ramey do some exhaust work for me years ago, and he did a good job. If you were to attach the tubing to the strut mount in a way other than at the bottom, you would have plenty of room. But there are many ways to skin a cat :)

 

EDIT: Found an article on the truck I saw. Looks like there is one large diameter tube with a 30*ish degree bend in it, and two smaller supporting tubes.

 

http://www.octanefreaks.com/drift-truck-2-1124.html

 

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Yeah I saw that design. Its a guy in cali here useing a 4 link in the back. I was thinking about bending it down like that... ill need to get some larger DOM however. I think some racing organizations require it to be 1.75" .095 minimum. Ill have to do dome more looking.

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Tank came out today, and I started cutting up the 240sx I bought for parts.

 

Im wondering what to do about the tank though. If I re-use it, I would mount it differently so it isnt bolted to the bed, and instead to the frame. I would need to get it cleaned and coated, but there is something bouncing around inside...?

 

The other option would be to get an aluminum fuel cell (20-30 gal) and install it between the rails. I would like to retain the OEM fuel door and fill neck, but not sure how to do that yet. No way I want to cut a hole in the bed for fills.

 

Cutting up the 240sx

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Tank is out, and draining what I can. Im going to filter it again, and add it to my daily's tank a gallon per fill to use it up. I dont want to start a huge fire, nor try to discard/dispose of it somewhere.

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mine is just sitting on the side. im not sure what to do with it ether. scrap sheet metal? haha. im sure you could get a 20gal and fab up some better mounting to the frame.

 

this may be a little extreme, but i like how the towers are done in this. im thinking about incorporating this into the existing frame instead of just making towers coming off.

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