Kirden Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Thought about this too. Never talked to the person that did it though. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I was thinking of his log-style manifolds. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hrm, I'll have to look for that. I've only seen the side and top mount ones Edit: found it. typed log manifold in datsun1200 and its the first one. If he can angle the outlet down or move it forward it may work. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Woot! just won a spare dyna lite for $70 shipped :P Just have to wait till it gets here, break it down, then the centers head to jrock for a recoat. After that the barrels might get a widening treatment. New outer lips to bump them to 7" Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Stephen Bogg just got my intake manifold flange back from the machinist. He is building the intake to suit R1 carb holders. He is also adding threaded bosses on the outer tubes so that the carbs can be solidly fixed to the manifold for boost. Lastly, he will add a vacuum port for the brake booster. For those that wanted a vacuum log to sort out the vacuum advance, Steve will add this to your manifold for a small cost. Less than an aftermarket log and very high quality. However, Steve says he suggest not going with a vacuum advance. For high performance he suggests remapping the distributor, for street, use mechanical advance alone. For my build we both agreed that I would be best served going to a crank trigger ignition once the time comes for boost, and that mechanical would be fine for NA. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 So less advance is his idea of performance? That works if you run full throttle all the time. Vacuum advance gives more power in stop and go and on cruising. He's right it will be fine. A-series runs pretty good with just mechanical advance. But it runs better with it. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 As he put it, for high performance you will be at full throttle, such as in a race car. Running without the vacuum advance for street is viable and won't harm anything, but won't make the most power. However, why modify my manifold for a vacuum log when I will not be running the stock distributor once the engine is boosted? I will be going with a crank trigger since I have no idea how to remap the stock distributor and the cost is similar once you figure in the price of the vacuum log modification and remapping. Another neat thing with the R1s is there is an area that you can drill and tap on the carbs themselves to get proper distibutor vacuum if you want it. The tap goes right before the butterfly on the carb and is perfect for off idle vacuum sourcing. Now on to a very serious topic that needs attention ASAP. I'm looking for input on colors on the wheels. Originally I had planned to go with Montana Gold: But I'm just not fully sold. After seeing the brown/black wheels on Rollover_Red's 510, I think I want to do more color: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21828-so-i-rolled-it-her-now-build-thread/page-13 If this car is ever repainted it will be repainted the stock Green Mint (601), so give me some neat ideas for wheel color guys. I had even contemplated hot pink so get creative. I have until this coming Thursday to decide because the 5th wheel should be here and the centers will be shipped to jrock. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Might be a slight change in plans for now. I have the chance to purchase an A14 that runs very well for $150. This would give me the opportunity to do a fresh rebuild on the A15 prior to boost and I can do some mild head work. It should also give me a reliable ride that could take me to Canby instead of buying a plane ticket. Only problem is, buying the engine is the easy part. Finding time to install it will be the real issue. I'd hate to buy it and have it sitting for months like the zx trans for my 620... Looks like I have some thinking/planning to do. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 this colour for rims would look bawse Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I just posted that elsewhere. That exact pic :P I'm leaning towards it atm but not really sure about that color with meshies. Would almost rather do the mesh white and that shade of blue in a metalic for the lips. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 ya I know I copied the img code and posted here.I would do the blue centres with polished lips or even black with polished lips. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 There's a recently rebuilt A15 with forged pistons for $750 on Datsun1200.com. You can't even machine an A15 for that. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for that, Vegas might not kill me in shipping either. As for the wheels, I am getting rid of the black. Hate black meshies. Pretty much decided on the bright blue or maybe powder blue which is a lighter shade but still bright. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Well, looks like I'll finish up the wheels but after that this project may be on hold for a while. My dad doesn't have much longer so I'm going to fly my sister out to see him. Thanks for tuning in. I'll update once the wheels are finished and my bogg manifold gets here, but the rest will be slow going. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Just got some pics of my completed manifold from bogg bros. Enjoy the candy: The bar across the middle was to keep the spacing correct during manufacturing. Threaded bosses on the first and last runner are to anchor the R1s so that they don't pop off under boost, and the ends are made to use R1 connectors. There is also a single vacuum port for the brake booster. 3 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 so jelly right now Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Sorry to hear about your father, I am in the same boat with my pop he is about to turn 93, hope he makes it. That manifold is other worldly! Looking forward to seeing the "meshies" refinished. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks guys. The spare dyna lite should be here today. If it comes in early enough I'll break it down and get them sent to jrock this week. Tomorrow starts my work week so if it doesn't get here in time they won't ship out until Tuesday. Also, thanks for your condolences ericsB210. I'm sorry to here about your pop as well. Best wishes to your family and his good health. My dad's cancer is just so volatile that it's hard to know what's going to happen. He went from being up and about with weekly visits to the doctor to bed ridden with hospice in a little over a week. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Just got off the phone with Steve. Absolutely shocked at the price. All of that work done for under $350 shipped. I had allocated almost double that cause of the exchange rate. Looks like I have $200 dollars for burritos! EDIT: Notice I said shipped, shipping may vary. I am on the east coast. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 So yesterday I checked my bank account and noticed that kirk racing had finally placed the charge that I ordered about a month ago. Well, it was unexpected, but hey, I still wanted the headers. Low and behold, I got a rather large package in the mail today: Really happy with these headers esp for the price. Sadly I'll still have to get them coated, but it's one more part for the stash atm. 2 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 So interestingly enough I decided to throw a tape measure on the wheels and figured out the sale ads were wrong. They are already 14x7 :thumbup: I'm still stuck trying to decide between 165/55/14s and 185/60/14s on the tires. I don't mind the stretch, but I've never seen pics of 185/60s on a vehicle with 14x7s. My old honda ran 185/60s but on 14x6s... Will 185/60s fit under the rear with a 14x7 and +13 offset? Edit: well shit... Looks like I measured incorrectly since its from where the tire bead seals on one side to the other. Probably 14x6s... Almost frustrated enouh to get rid of these and go to 15s. So with the 14x6 in mind, I'm still searching for 165/55 or 165/60s Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Go with the 15s. Keep it simple. Quote Link to comment
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