1979 Datsun 810 Wagon Mild Custom

[tablebeast]

I just scored this 79 810 Goon on the cheap and my plans for it are simple. First off, being a 'rat' I want to keep total expenditure under $3000. It has had a lot of stuff done to it already so I'm way ahead of where I'd be than if I was raising it from the dead. In fact the previous owner said he was putting 60 miles a day on it so she isn't far from being a daily as-is. It doesn't hurt that he included nearly all the parts it NEEDS in a big box with the sale. I just need to add stuff that I WANT with the remaining budget.

 

Here is the stuff I currently want to do to it:

 

1. Replace front bumper with something tiny and rear bumper with rolled pan.

2. Shave off the side trim, fender trim, logos, and excess chrome.

3. Get a set of 280ZX wheels with wider tires.

4. Custom stereo system built into stock console.

5. Install 2.25" single exhaust with side exit in front of rear wheel.

6. Black out hatch and side windows.

7. Fix the minimal rust and repaint.

8. Replace plastic grill with a custom metal one.

9. Recore radiator (since I can't seem to find an affordable new one anywhere).

10. Drive it cross-country recording live bands with a portable Audio Recording Rig! (this is a WHOLE other project, check it out at http://xfmr.blogspot.com )

 

OK, I got some of my own pics taken. I didn't clean it at all so that I could show is EXACTLY as it arrived. Here is a link ot the whole album: http://s1309.photobucket.com/user/tablebeast/library/1979%20Datsun%20810%20Wagon%20Arrival

And here are some highlights:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, that only took a few HOURS to do. Wish I knew you guys didn't use flickr any more before I spent all my time on that before going to photobucket and having to repat the whole process over again. At least it's done now. I know you guys like photos so I'll put up as many as I can. TOmorrow she gets a bath and interior cleaning.

[The Dat-side]

 

1. Swap out the slushbox auto for a 5 speed manual

2. Leave the beast of a bumpers,

3. Get a set of wide low offset wheels with stretched tires and slam it.

4. Remove AC and smog crap

5. Install headers and 2.5" single exhaust

6. Black out hatch and side windows

7. Patch up the rust and preserve the original patina for the next owner.

8. Replace plastic grill with a custom metal one

9. Recore radiator and install electric fan(s)

10. Build custom center console with tablet-based (Ghey!) stereo system

12. Remove carpet and rear seats and replace front seats with ZX buckets

 

Hold on to the OG stuff.

Roll.

Fixed.

[Z-train]

Removing A/C & Smog "crap" will gain you nothing.Headers & a 2.5 will gain you even less.Un-less the sound of the fan irks you,electric fans will do nothing to help and will FORCE you to up-grade the charging system.

 

There are NO struts available for 810's.

[tablebeast]

That whole "fixed-that-for-you" stuff wasn't even funny back in the 90's the first time I saw it so please give it a rest, dat-side. If you're going to criticize, then back it up with some reasoning. Its my car now and I don't plan on there being a next owner any time soon. I'm going to make it the way I want it.

 

The bumpers? If you want them you can have them! They are ugly as sin and to me ruin the lines of the body. They are absolutely useless anyway. Patina? Ha. Piss yellow and rust holes isn't my idea of patina worth keeping. If I am going to patch up the rust, remove the trim, and prime the repairs then I am going to repaint the whole body with a solid coat of some kind of primer and I prefer black. I'm not tinting so I can be "OG", I'll do it for privacy and because I'll be hauling expensive audio equipment that I don't want people seeing so easily. I can't, nor do I want, to slam it. I live on a gravel road on top of a mountain and need decent clearance for any vehicle. As for the stereo, I am an audio guy that builds his own recording equipment so I will be designing and building a completely custom setup built from scratch without the traditional CD/Tape/AM/FM type deck. The 7" tablet will merely be the controller for a flash based mini-computer that will hold my music. The digital stuff will hide in the glovebox while the analog stuff will live in the console. I haven't bought a CD in a decade and I don't want to cut the dash, so what is so "Ghey!" about that? And since it doesn't work anyway I thought about gutting and repurposing the AM/FM deck that is there as a basic front-end controller for the system, but I will need some kind of screen to see what I am doing when I create playlists and add/remove files. I am a record producer and mastering engineer as well so I would like to have a system that I can show of my mixes/masters in.

 

Now Z-train, thanks for the helpful advice. I hear what you're saying about removing stuff, but I have my own reasons for taking it out besides increasing performance. Up here in Asheville I don't think I've ever had or needed a car with AC. It doesn't work anyway, and I don't have any interest in fixing it. I will remove it because it adds weight and takes up space. Same for all the smog crap. I don't need 40 feet of excess vacuum lines or air pumps or EGR bulshit. Even if I don't gain anything, it bothers me that fed-mandated useless crap is taking up space in my car. I heard Z headers don't work because of clearance issues, so I will probably just replace the exhaust and leave the stock manifold. It needs about half the exhaust replaced anyway, so I'll just go bigger with a better sounding muffler as it can't hurt anything. Electric fan was more of an afterthought, I don't mind keeping the stock setup. As for struts, something can always be adapted I'm sure. I don't want it jacked or anything, just a mild rake.

[The Dat-side]

Bwahahahahha!

Just giving some suggestions in a comical way. Sorry if you got butt-hurt, but not really.

Please don't paint over original paint, especially something like flat black. I wish the PO of my car hadn't and I'm sure the next owner of yours will also. Other than that, do what ever the hell you want.

[tablebeast]

Bwahahahahha!

Just giving some suggestions in a comical way. Sorry if you got butt-hurt, but not really.

Please don't paint over original paint, especially something like flat black. I wish the PO of my car hadn't and I'm sure the next owner of yours will also. Other than that, do what ever the hell you want.

 

I don't know about the rest of you guys, but there are plenty of other places for actual funny stuff on the net. I came here to talk seriously about Datsuns. Joking around is fine, but I'd like to get down to business. Forgive me if I seem uptight somehow, but in my field of expertise, I try to get the best ratio of signal to noise possible. So, with that in mind, dat-side can we cut down on the noise and focus on signal? If you don't like what I'm doing with my car, then just move on to the next thread. You don't have to comment on everything. AAAAAND lets just let that be the end of this OT nonsense.

 

As for the paint, I know it looks OK in the pictures, but believe me it needs work. And I hate this color. But, that is why they make paint! I really wanted to start with a rattle can flat black paint job because I am pretty good at it and it is cheap. It will be temporary of course and eventually I will get a friend with a booth or freaking Maaco to hit it with a coat of satin black. If I do all the prep work and primer myself, it won't look half bad. Whatever I do, believe me, it will be an improvement.

[sick620]

love the 810 wagons, nice score! :) Im joining the goon squad myself soon with a 82 210 wagon... 

[king bee66]

im right there with you on the color, i think its ugly as sin

[tablebeast]

love the 810 wagons, nice score! :) Im joining the goon squad myself soon with a 82 210 wagon... 

I used to have an 82 Sentra Wagon, which looks a lot like that 210 wagon, only FWD. It had like only 53,000 original miles and was a freaking cherry car. But it had no nuts! When I stomped on the gas it was like an old man getting out of a big chair! Plus it was just a bit too small. This 810 is a better size with a better engine and dang if I don't like rear wheel drive a LOT better.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Since your getting rid of the grill & emblems you mind giving them away or selling them?

 

If you want more power source an L28E from a 280zx and swap everything over, you'll have to take L28 to a machine shop so they can relocate the oil dipstick and oil drain line since the L28 is a rear sump unlike the L24E thats a front sump.

 

You'll most probably need heavier springs like truck ones but all that will have to be custom non of the high stance has been done on a 810 and for a reason.  For the shocks in the back you'll have to find something that fits or again custom done, Most of what your doing is something i would go against but its your car now ans since there ain't many on the road today keep it alive.

[tablebeast]

You can have the grill when I pull it, but it has been damaged since these pics were taken. Someone backed into it with a tow ball and knocked two chunks off the top driver's side corner. I have the broken off chunks and some model glue (since its plastic) so I was going to fix it in the mean time.

 

As for the exhaust, I don't care if I gain anything, I just want to replace that old rusted hunk of metal with something new and if I am going to replace it, it will be with what I want: 2.25" with a side exit in front of the rear wheel. And yeah, a nice rumble would be exactly why! Here is a picture of the grill.

 

[ArchetypeDatsun]

^ I added to the post above.

 

Yeah I'm doing the same with the exhaust because its time to get it changed as well there's a tiny leak on the actual muffler.  Mines gonna go all the way back since the car isn't that long.

 

When ever you can take a pic of the grill.

[tablebeast]

I think I'm going to forgo the header, seems like a lot of hassle and expense for no gain. The exhaust however needs work anyway so it will get replaced from the manifold back. I think a tiny muffler in the old cat location would be pretty sweet and give me maximum clearance.

 

By the way I just got her home today and man is she looking sweet. I looked her over and this is a great car to start out with. I actually had the undercoating when it was new and that's why there is so little rust. The rear bumper is swiss cheese and the front fenders have some rust holes right where they ALL do, but underneath she looks pretty damn good. I also got TWO factory service manuals! One is missing the front cover and the other is missing the back cover and a few of the back pages, but damn if that won't come in handy!

 

One thing that was lacking in the factory manual was the procedure for pulling and replacing the wheel bearings in the solid rear axle of the wagon. It only shows how to do it with the IRS. Is this rear axle the same as another model that I can reference? 620? 510? Maxima Wagon? This thing REALLY needs the bearings done. In fact it is making such a racket I had it towed home instead of driving the 20 miles home. Not taking any chances with that!

[Z-train]

Now Z-train, thanks for the helpful advice. I hear what you're saying about removing stuff, but I have my own reasons for taking it out besides increasing performance. Up here in Asheville I don't think I've ever had or needed a car with AC. It doesn't work anyway, and I don't have any interest in fixing it. I will remove it because it adds weight and takes up space. Same for all the smog crap. I don't need 40 feet of excess vacuum lines or air pumps or EGR bulshit. Even if I don't gain anything, it bothers me that fed-mandated useless crap is taking up space in my car. I heard Z headers don't work because of clearance issues, so I will probably just replace the exhaust and leave the stock manifold. It needs about half the exhaust replaced anyway, so I'll just go bigger with a better sounding muffler as it can't hurt anything. Electric fan was more of an afterthought, I don't mind keeping the stock setup. As for struts, something can always be adapted I'm sure. I don't want it jacked or anything, just a mild rake.

All that smog crap you talk about on a FI engine is pretty much inseparable.It has to be there unless you go with a MS system or the like.

 

The header don't work because the factory manifold is so well designed that in your(and many others)application,there is nothing to be gained by adding a header.But it probably won't fit account the steering box.

 

2.25 pipe with a Walker super turbo will work well.Z struts(which are shorter) SHOULD work with enough homework and a spacer in the tube.

[Z-train]

I don't know about the rest of you guys, but there are plenty of other places for actual funny stuff on the net. I came here to talk seriously about Datsuns. Joking around is fine, but I'd like to get down to business. Forgive me if I seem uptight somehow, but in my field of expertise, I try to get the best ratio of signal to noise possible. So, with that in mind, dat-side can we cut down on the noise and focus on signal? If you don't like what I'm doing with my car, then just move on to the next thread. You don't have to comment on everything. AAAAAND lets just let that be the end of this OT nonsense.

 

As for the paint, I know it looks OK in the pictures, but believe me it needs work. And I hate this color. But, that is why they make paint! I really wanted to start with a rattle can flat black paint job because I am pretty good at it and it is cheap. It will be temporary of course and eventually I will get a friend with a booth or freaking Maaco to hit it with a coat of satin black. If I do all the prep work and primer myself, it won't look half bad. Whatever I do, believe me, it will be an improvement.

 

Take some advice and un-cinch your shorts a bit.

[tablebeast]

All that smog crap you talk about on a FI engine is pretty much inseparable.It has to be there unless you go with a MS system or the like.

 

The header don't work because the factory manifold is so well designed that in your(and many others)application,there is nothing to be gained by adding a header.But it probably won't fit account the steering box.

 

2.25 pipe with a Walker super turbo will work well.Z struts(which are shorter) SHOULD work with enough homework and a spacer in the tube.

 

Yeah, I am more used to American carbureted stuff and they really seem to benefit from yanking all the smog crap off. This type of FI system is totally new to me. I think I am just going to leave the smog and AC stuff there and simply take the AC belt of the compressor. I want a clean looking engine bay, but it seems like the only way that would happen would be to switch to a carbureted setup. My other vehicle is a carbureted Ford F150 and its a pain in the ass to get started when its cold, while this car fires right up the first time, so... I think I'll just leave it as it is.

 

I've already decided to keep the stock manifold, and you're right, 2.25" might be the best size to go with. I was talking to an exhaust guy today and he said the same thing. As for the Walker super turbo muffler, I've never heard of that one, do you have a model number you can recommend? JC Whitney doesn't have one for the 810.

 

It has the original factory struts and shocks from the looks of it. I got some Monroe sensa-track shocks for the rear (they were super cheap on rockauto) that should bring the rear back to level. Right now it sags a bit, which is the opposite of the look I am going for! I don't really want to lower the front at all because of my steep gravel driveway, so I'll probably just get some matching 810-sized Monroe struts when I can find them (rockauto only had 1!)

 

And as for my shorts? Come on, please? What does that have to do with Datsuns? Can we stay on topic? I already asked nicely. I think it is a reasonable request to focus on the topic on hand and not unfunny BS. Don't get me wrong z-train, I really appreciate the good advice, but why did you have to come back with a zinger? My shorts are fine and I am quite a hilarious guy myself. But there is a time and place for that. I just don't want it on my thread cluttering the place up. So, I ask again, with no answer necessary besides silence on the matter, can we just leave this OT stuff settled?

[tablebeast]

I am looking at some wheels and tires on craigslist right now. I found a set of 240SX 'teardrop' alloys with center caps from the early 90's. They have some good looking 215/60r15 tires on them. He is asking only $275 for the set so it looks like a good deal and the tires are pretty much the same height. From the info I have gleaned it seems like they should fit perfectly, but I figured I would ask first.

 

By the way, I took a bunch of pictures of the car today before I cleaned it to document exactly as it was when I got it in my hands. I will post them as soon as they upload to photobucket. Thanks again for all the help so far guys! It will certainly save me some time and money.

[tablebeast]

There are NO struts available for 810's.

 

Will struts from a 1980 810 work on my 79? It looks like it is the same part as the 280ZX struts. I've seen info about them being adapted to the early 510 so it seems possible. If I have to do something to adapt them is there some info on what is involved in that here on Ratsun? A search turned up nothing.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

I doubt it don't think there has been that many 810's popping on Ratsun to really know for sure you'll have to find out for yourself. Just find the shocks that match that's going to be your best bet. The 810 was made from 77-80 so try it out might get lucky.

 

Also try Maxima.org maybe some or the members there have had a 77-80 810, there a all maxima forum but 810 is similar to the 1st gen maxima could help if you don't find what you need know.

[tablebeast]

I put new rotors, bearings, and pads on the front last week as well as a few other little things like wipers, fuel filter, oil change, etc. I meant to put in new rear shocks, but I ran out of daylight so they will go in next time I get to work on it. I will also get it waxed and detailed soon to see what kind of paint job is left under all that grime. She is running great, but I really, REALLY need to replace the rear wheel bearings so I am not driving it much yet. It also needs tires and I am looking for a nice set of 280ZX wheels to put new rubber on. I like the 6-spoke style and I think I will be going with Firestone Winterforce tires because of my steep gravel driveway.

 

Anyone know a good Datsun Mechanic that can do my rear bearings in Western North Carolina or Upstate South Carolina (I'm near Asheville, NC by the way)? Since they seem to need machine shop work to press in the retaining collars I am not going to attempt it myself.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

You can make a post on the general discussion for help someone in that area should see it and post and go from there.

 

My 810 has a lot of dirt and grim from sitting don't know when it's been cleaned last but a it needs a good wax & detail. Your 810 should look tons different when it gets cleaned. Wheels should be hard to find I would look at your local pick & pull / junkyard.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

I been spending time posting on HybridZ.org about getting more power out of the L24E but it's not gonna be cheap but engine is when your wanting to get power out it.

 

Here's a link to my post I made on HybridZ a lot of good advice.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112118-advice-on-l24e-hp-gain/

[tablebeast]

Thanks for the link. That one post towards the end makes the most sense, thinking about it as a complete system. I am thinking more and more like I am just goign to keep it stock. The engine only has 112k on it and from everything I have read the bottom end is just now broken in! If I do anythign to it I think a head rebuild with port work, bigger valves, and a slightly hotter cam would be about as far as I would go. The one thing I do NOT want to do is sacrfice MPG for more power, like another poster on that hybridZ thread said, you don't have to sacrifice if you do it right.

[tablebeast]

OK, after much searching and contemplation I have finally secured my new wheels and tires (+ special lugnuts)! I found a set of 1981 280ZX 14x6 6-spoke mags for $150. Then I decided to wrap them in full set of General AltiMAX RT in 195/70r14 for $252 at discounttiredirect. I went ahead and got the road hazard certificates (replaces damaged tire for any reason as long as it has 3/32" tread for $8.50 per tire and is transferable). With my gravel roads, it is good insurance and chances are somewhere in the next 70k at least one of these tires goes bad. Also, even though I really hate the place and try to avoid it, I am going to get them installed at MalWart since I can then get them rotated for free at any of their billions of locations. I should have the tires in hand and installed by this time next week. I will post pics then.

 

Until then, I picked up a brand new, well NOS, pair of Dunlops in 195/70r14 to use as spares. I had the tire guy put these two tires on my best pair of steel wheels and he stuffed them on the front. No problem, right? Well, the old tires were the stock 185/70r14 and it just looks plain weird with bigger tires up front! I was thinking about going with bigger tires in the REAR initially, but now I think that having all of them this one size makes rotating easier and will get me more miles out of this new rubber.

 

As much as it sucks to have to deal with 14 inch tires, the best part is that when I put these old 185/70r14 Firestones in the craigslist for $20 a pop they will get snatched up quick. They have decent tread on 3 out of 4 of them but they are old and have some minor dryrot. I also have a pair of Cooper Cobra 195/65r14 that were on two of those ZX rims when I bought them and though they are a bit balder, they are way newer and should still get the same sawbuck each. So, that knocks $120 off my NEW tire cost right there, dang near makes them half price!

 

Other new stuff:

 

I got the new bearings installed front and rear. New rotors, calipers, and pads up front (PO already did the rear within the last year).

 

I installed one new brake line as a necessity, but then I decided to order a full set of hard lines and hydraulic hoses to redo the whole car at once. I'll have them put in when I have the new master cylinder installed (there is nothing wrong with the present MC, but the metal caps on my current MC have chewed up the plastic resevoirs pretty bad over the years).

 

I have a tiny antifreeze leak, but I can't tell where it is coming from. I found a brand new NOS radiator for $85 and the PO included a nice water pump when I bought the car, so I am going to swap out both of those parts as well as all the hoses and belts soon.

 

I ordered a Grant classic model 338 steering wheel in 13.5" but I haven't installed it yet.

 

Next up is exhaust. I am going to go with a single 2.25" with a glasspack and a side exit in front of the rear tire. I want it to be throaty when I step on it!

 

After that, heat AC needs some work. It only works as heat and only at full blast. I can't turn the temp down at all (bottom slider has no effect at all), and I can only run the fan at ful on, the other settings don't work. Controls might just need a good cleaning. I'd like to get the AC working, but it is far from a necessity. If it is going to cost a fortune to fix I may just yank all the AC parts and pass them on to an 810 owner that needs AC more than I do.

 

One question, what can I do to upgrade the air intake box/filter? I have had a mouse trying to live in the air box, right on top of the air filter! The other day I opened it because I thought it was clogged, and it WAS, with old acorn shells and mouse poop! I have since trapped and eliminated a few mice that were trying to live under the hood and now that I am driving it every day I am hoping they stay away. The D-Con I leave on the battery when it is parked at home will help insure that is the case!

[Z-train]

"Next up is exhaust. I am going to go with a single 2.25" with a glasspack and a side exit in front of the rear tire. I want it to be throaty when I step on it!"

 

 

Walker super-turbo will do the same without annoying the shit out of you and everyone with-in 100 feet of the car.