L18: Hard to Start and Does Not Want to Turn Off

[rude_day]

how does you spark plugs look and smell like?

look & smell like normal i guess? i mean it doesnt have an unusual smell

 

& the stock Hitachi

[rude_day]

also i cant really adjust my timing because it bounces back and fourth

 

WHAT??????????

pu tthe light on #1 plug wire and look at the crank it sahoul be steady

Now if its bouncing around this is a BIG clue.

You ck the wiggle of the dizzy shaft from sisde to side. maybe bushing or worn out.

 

I would do the idle around 10 and the spped set screw is on the back of carb. cycle the linkage and youll see a stop. a threaded screw the pushed the carb open or close.

 

 

this is a simple fix.

If you can do a timming chain you can do this.

yea well it use to be fine but i wanted it to turn off right so now i guess i have to readjust it

[rude_day]

also my mechanic said i need to hook up my idle solenoid so it can idle consistent

 

so i'll do that tomorrow

[banzai510(hainz)]

Stock 521s had a idle seliniod????????????? Never heward this. lasy year 521 had electric choke.

 

I never heard this unless it s a Hitachi from a later model Datsun.

 

If you L motor had a like a U67 open champer head on there they will have Run On issues. This is common.

Thats why they added the idle cut off on later datsuns.

[rude_day]

Stock 521s had a idle seliniod????????????? Never heward this. lasy year 521 had electric choke.

 

I never heard this unless it s a Hitachi from a later model Datsun.

 

If you L motor had a like a U67 open champer head on there they will have Run On issues. This is common.

Thats why they added the idle cut off on later datsuns.

yea its for the anti dieseling but i need a solenoid cause my wires are shot on the solenoid an no my choke is manuel

and yes its a Hitachi carb

[racerx]

If idle is too high, it will diesel. What rpm at idle?

[rude_day]

If idle is too high, it will diesel. What rpm at idle?

i dropped the idle already and like around 700

[rude_day]

and anyone think i should do this?

 

[datzenmike]

i dropped the idle already and like around 700

 

Do you have a tach or are you using the force? It could very well be 1,100 RPM and it WILL run on set like that.

 

If you have an idle cut solenoid connect it up!!! Any switched ignition source will do even the power to the coil.

 

and anyone think i should do this?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06OQUxFok7c

 

You can but it doesn't cure the problem of what causes carbon build up. The smoke is impressive and I think what sells that stuff. Everyone thinks it's getting all that crap out of there. You can get the same results from a coke bottle full of ordinary water. Get the engine really hot and rev it way up and begin pouring the water in. The heat will boil the water and steam clean the pistons and combustion chambers. The motor will cool off doing this so you may have to do several times. If you have ever pulled a head that has had a blown gasket where coolant has leaked into one or more cylinders you'll be amazed how spotlessly clean the piston tops can be.

[racerx]

Im wit datznmike..sea foam will not solve the issue. Too advance timing can also cause rpm to go up. Your tach can be off, if you can get a hold of a tach and dwell metr or a dig. Timing light that shows rpm will be good to check your cars tach against what is mentioned. Compare the two..my tach on mustang is off by 200 rpm.

[rude_day]

Do you have a tach or are you using the force? It could very well be 1,100 RPM and it WILL run on set like that.

 

If you have an idle cut solenoid connect it up!!! Any switched ignition source will do even the power to the coil.

 

 

 

You can but it doesn't cure the problem of what causes carbon build up. The smoke is impressive and I think what sells that stuff. Everyone thinks it's getting all that crap out of there. You can get the same results from a coke bottle full of ordinary water. Get the engine really hot and rev it way up and begin pouring the water in. The heat will boil the water and steam clean the pistons and combustion chambers. The motor will cool off doing this so you may have to do several times. If you have ever pulled a head that has had a blown gasket where coolant has leaked into one or more cylinders you'll be amazed how spotlessly clean the piston tops can be.

 

no i have a timing light & a dwell meter

 

& i wish i could hook up the solenoid but my shot out

any have a spare?

 

makes sense & matter of fact i have blow a head gasket

[rude_day]

Im wit datznmike..sea foam will not solve the issue. Too advance timing can also cause rpm to go up. Your tach can be off, if you can get a hold of a tach and dwell metr or a dig. Timing light that shows rpm will be good to check your cars tach against what is mentioned. Compare the two..my tach on mustang is off by 200 rpm.

well iam using old school tools & maybe there off? but i just really need the solenoid so it can idle fine & then i can really adjust the timing

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im taking a long shot guess on this.

I know 521 did NOTcome with a idle seliniod stock.

So you must have a later carb that has a seliniod on there and you say its broke.

So if its BROKE then the only way this truck will idle is you have the spped screw cranked up so much that your running on the main circut. and So when you stut the ky off its still sucking gas in the main barrel and thus your run on situation.

[datzenmike]

Earliest idle cut I found was on the L18 so '73-'74.

 

well iam using old school tools & maybe there off? but i just really need the solenoid so it can idle fine & then i can really adjust the timing

 

The idle cut is just that... it cuts fuel off. If parts inside are missing it will allow gas through all the time and NOT shut it off... so it should idle fine!!

[rude_day]

Im taking a long shot guess on this.

I know 521 did NOTcome with a idle seliniod stock.

So you must have a later carb that has a seliniod on there and you say its broke.

So if its BROKE then the only way this truck will idle is you have the spped screw cranked up so much that your running on the main circut. and So when you stut the ky off its still sucking gas in the main barrel and thus your run on situation.

thats pretty much it haha

& thats the carb it had when i got the truck with the L16

 

[rude_day]

Earliest idle cut I found was on the L18 so '73-'74.

 

 

The idle cut is just that... it cuts fuel off. If parts inside are missing it will allow gas through all the time and NOT shut it off... so it should idle fine!!

then i dont know why it wants to keep running then

[banzai510(hainz)]

open chamber head.

 

gave it gas right when you shutting down so the buttly is open.

 

 

take a photo of the other side of the carb.

What you showed is not a anto cut off. but a Emission valve of some short.

[rude_day]

hey sorry for the delay you guys but i swapped out my stock hitachi carburetor with a weber DGEV 32/36 carb i got a while back and i have a couple questions about it.

 

1 where do i hook up my automatic choke to?

 

2 why would the carb back fire threw the intake?

 

3 why would it "bog" when i accelerate?

 

4 why would is want to keep running when i turn it off?

[datzenmike]

1/ Connect the electric choke to anything that turns on and off with the ignition

 

2/ Running lean is my guess. Primary jet clogged. Adapter plate cracked from over tightening the bolts, Gasket leak.  .

 

3/ Partly the above, but also a non working accelerator pump. Engine off look down carb and pump gas. You should see a strong squirt of gas into the primary barrel.

 

4/ Needs an idle cut solenoid to cut the fuel flow to the idle circuit when the ignition is turned off. If you don't have one you will have to do without Idle speed may be set too high, running rich at idle or flooding: float set too high. When shutting off hold brake down lift clutch slightly to lug motor and turn ignition off. This will kill the motor quickly. 

 

This obviously isn't a Redline carb, hope you didn't pay too much for it.

[rude_day]

thanks for the advice but now i have another problem

 

i hooked up my Weber's power side to the Ignition coil & it doesnt want to start at all & all it does is crank, but when it has no power to the carb it turns on but obviously rough because its and auto choke that adjusts when it has power

so could my clock spring be worn out?

 

 

& no i didnt pay to much it came with my L18 when i bought it

[banzai510(hainz)]

Did you take the power from the +side of the ballast resisitor or at the + side of coil?

 

you would take power for the blk wht wire that goes in to the white ballast resisitor.Persoanlly I would find another circut to take the power from. But alot of people take it from there.

 

if this is a 72 521 there is*should) a power wire for a choke..

 

I personally like the manual Weber carbs(5A model) and hate the elelcteric choke ones. Once I tried fucking with them I could never get then right either on too long or not long enough as most time start and then drive off.

 

 

that clock spring is a heateing element. As it gets out or cold it will unwind thus pushing the flap open or close. One can loosen the 2 or 3 screw around the ring to make it more opne or closed.

 

I persoanlly just crank it open and unplugg it. then when cold just pump the shit out out if before start up and feather it for a 1/2 mins to get it warmed up.

[racerx]

Did you mess with the choke? If so it should be adjusted when cold. If you do turn the knob, it should not be closed all the way, should be slightly open. Im with hainz and prefer manual choke. Funny thing is elect. Choke cost less than manual.

[banzai510(hainz)]

need infor here

if this is a point ignition and has the ballast. if one hook to the =side coil your really taking power after the ballast resisitor. and doing START your sharing the power at that point and might be loosing soem currecnt as the battery is drawing down the power. But this in only a best gues on my part.

[racerx]

if choke is issue, read this: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/32867-setting-choke-on-3236/