phearless Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 I want to delete the hose that goes to the heater core... mostly because the part that routes the hoses around is gone.I'm not sure how to go about doing this, or it's even a good idea.Suggestions? Should I find a brass cap that fits the threads, or should I make a new connection between there and the lower radiator hose outlet? Quote Link to comment
pwee4u2c Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 I seen the back of the head blocked off with something threaded, the lower hose I've seen blocked off with a spark plug and hose clamp Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Heaters are always useful for foggy windows. You can block the heater hoses off no problem. When you turn the heat to off you are closing the valve at the heater anyway and it's fine. You could just run a hose from one to the other and just let it circulate... but if doing this you may as well connect to the heater. Or cut the hoses off with a couple of inches to spare and plug the end and gear clamp it. Use SS gear clamps. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Tap the holes in the block and the head to NPT (1/2" I think) and use tapered pipe plugs...for a clean look. Quote Link to comment
phearless Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Heaters are always useful for foggy windows. You can block the heater hoses off no problem. When you turn the heat to off you are closing the valve at the heater anyway and it's fine. You could just run a hose from one to the other and just let it circulate... but if doing this you may as well connect to the heater. Or cut the hoses off with a couple of inches to spare and plug the end and gear clamp it. Use SS gear clamps. I've removed the heater core and blower motor. They were both done for, and it shaved off 8 pounds. Cheaper to remove than hunt for replacements. This is all some good information. I mainly wanted to know if blocking off the hole at the back of the head was going to cause issues. Quote Link to comment
phearless Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Tap the holes in the block and the head to NPT (1/2" I think) and use tapered pipe plugs...for a clean look. It's more than 1/2"... I took my vernier caliper to the tap hole, and it measured 0.8"... I figure a brass fitting would be best. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 It's more than 1/2"... I took my vernier caliper to the tap hole, and it measured 0.8"... I figure a brass fitting would be best. NPT is a funny nomenclature. The size indicated by the number on the tap is usually no where near the actual size. For instance, the 1/2" NPT thread has an OD of .840". Sounds like the one you need. Quote Link to comment
Xnke Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Whatever you do, Don't loop the port on the head back to the inlet of the water pump. You're cycling hot water back to the cold inlet of the pump, without pushing it through the radiator. This leads to increased risk of preignition, detonation, and broken pistons in extreme cases, and overheated engines in moderate cases. It's not good on the L4, and it's seriously bad on the L6. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Whatever you do, Don't loop the port on the head back to the inlet of the water pump. You're cycling hot water back to the cold inlet of the pump, without pushing it through the radiator. This leads to increased risk of preignition, detonation, and broken pistons in extreme cases, and overheated engines in moderate cases. It's not good on the L4, and it's seriously bad on the L6. Agree 100%. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Whatever you do, Don't loop the port on the head back to the inlet of the water pump. You're cycling hot water back to the cold inlet of the pump, without pushing it through the radiator. This leads to increased risk of preignition, detonation, and broken pistons in extreme cases, and overheated engines in moderate cases. It's not good on the L4, and it's seriously bad on the L6. Agree 100%. Rubbish! What about when you have the heat on high and the fan off vents closed???? The water goes right through and back to the water pump. This small amount of by pass isn't going to do diddly. If the motor should get warmer the thermostat will simply open wider and the rad will cool it. It is a tax on the cooling system and in extreme cases of heat probably not a good idea for long term use. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Still agree 100%. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 And who says "rubbish" these days anyway? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 datzenmike does. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Own it brother! Testify!!! Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 NPT is a funny nomenclature. The size indicated by the number on the tap is usually no where near the actual size. For instance, the 1/2" NPT thread has an OD of .840". Sounds like the one you need. Pipe sizes refer to the inside diameter, not the outside diameter or crest / root dimension of the thread. Quote Link to comment
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