Kirden Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Well, since we put in the new thermostat I have had to add water every day... Decided to rig up a small overflow southern style. I know it probably won't work the way it should, but as long as it keeps coolant off my alt I will be happy. Edit: If you look in the background on the first pic you can see the flex hose I got for the rad. Can't wait to get either an aftermarket 3 core or a stock 620 rad, this thing is horrible 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 should do the job ;) Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ugh, just got woke up by loud banging, and now I think I can't get back to sleep. On the good side, UPS had a package for me :P I have been waiting for all of the parts to come in but this was funny because the box was 6" taller than the UPS guy. Snapped a quick teaser pic for everyone. Enjoy Thanks again to everyone who has had a part in helping me gather everything I need/want for this truck. As long as the money keeps flowing, I will be doing even more business in the near future. Edit, picture is horrible, TV looks like some 70s porno... Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 no pic of it unpacked? at least you knew what was in it......... some smart ass taped a card to it ;) Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 No, I am keeping all the parts hidden till I start working on it. I am being lazy about my school work but the truck can't be worked on till school work is finished... so hard being in college and not really wanting to be... Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Woot, PRO-gress :) So today I decided to stay up after getting off work (got home at 4:30am) so that I could work on the truck all morning. Sun comes up and bam, it starts raining... Decided to take a nap and woke up at 2:30pm. What a waste of all that time :( Decided I would do what I could. Went to O'reillys to grab a fuel filter, picked up some food and got to work on the truck at about 4pm. 3 hours later here is what I have accomplished: The old - Dat new new - But wait, sumfin be missin batman! Tada! Of course the sun went down while I was buttoning up the weber, but I still have some fun things to do tomorrow so I will snap a pic for you guys. Still on the list for this weekend: Replace all rubber fuel hoses - they are all rotten and cracking/split. Surprised I made it this long. Clean out fuel tank Replace plugs Replace wires Carb stuff: Mount throttle cable to original mounting bracket - rochester was mounted sideways so cable has a "custom" mount Wire electric choke Remove "custom" manual choke cable from old carb install Dial in carb (hope this won't be too bad) For my first time working on an old vehicle this was a blast. I have never worked with carbs or manual fuel pumps.I have worked on EFI 4 cyls before, but they were mostly honda/mazda. Monday I should pick up the lowering blocks, but I also have work so probably won't install them till next weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 So another related update. I decided to let curiosity win and cut open the old filter... Ran my finger inside the case, chuck of rust/debris and other dirt. I don't think the filter has been changed in a very long time. Kinda scared of dropping the tank now... Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 As promised, a pic of the newley installed weber: The new fuel pump ended up being bad, so replace it with the old one. Started on the second try :) Now I have to figure out the throttle cable issue and find where the original electronic choke wire is. Throttle cable will probably be captured between a bolt and nut to anchor it to the carb till I can figure something else out. I have seen some people say that you can wire the choke to the hot side of the ballast, but I prefer to find the original wiring and reuse it. Anyone know if one of these wires goes to the choke? They come from the firewal behind the choke right above the area between the master cyl and the throttle cable. Here is a picture of the connector further towards the passenger side. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Time to replace that booster line... It's on the crackSoo much blue,... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Yea, booster should be out when I get the disc brake setup for the front. I don't really like/need the booster anyway :P Also, the more stuff I remove/replace the more blue I remove. Its win win right :) Edit, another update, choke is wired and works great. Thanks to datzenmike and banzai510(hainz) for all the help. Those wiring diagrams on olddatsuns,com really helped to figure out which wire was the correct one. Had to peel the blue off to find the wire colors. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Well, decided to do atleast one stupid thing today (but the day isn't over yet!). Drove the truck to work. Keep in mind I have not done a test drive since installing the weber... So, this is what I found on the 28 mile trip (18 miles hwy, 10 miles town). The good: The truck seem to have a lot of pep now. It takes off without any hesitation and no bogging. I get up to speed a lot quicker in gears 1-3, 4 is still rough but that is how a 40 year old 1.8 is right? Summary of good, all around better drivability over the GM rochester carb (who woulda thunk it). As far as getting to speed in 4th, this really doesn't become a problem till 55+, so I just figure it is because these engines don't have the amount of power I am used to. Loving the truck, feels like a brand new ride. The bad: I have a deiseling issue, but not as bad as the rochester. The throttle pedal has no stiffness to it. Summary- The deiseling issue is something I really need to work out. I am going to try to pick up a wideband so I can effectively tune the carb, or atleast a decen a/f meter. The throttle cable feels like there is no return pressure. I don't know how these pedals are supposed to feel but it feels like the clutch, maybe even a little less pressure than that. It isn't really an issue, but it worries me when I take off cause it feels like the cable has broken or came loose from the carb. I hope that my new pedal will stiffen if up a bit but we will see. Side note, when I hit my brakes I hear a pop or click under the dash. I haven't been able to inspect it but I think I also have a brake fluid leak in the cab (noticed some moisture in the carpet below the pedal). I will check it out either tomorrow or Friday but off the top of your heads do any of you know if this could be my booster? I hope it isn't the master but if it is the booster that is fine because I want to remove it anyway. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Alright, as promised I have more pictures! The first set were the good, so I guess this is the bad. Dent fixed the wrong way on the bed. Closer look. Really bad paint under the hood. Crushed breather. Anyone know what carb this is? Half asleep atm but I can get more pics if needed. Bent latch bracket. Look real close and you can see the straight piece in the rectangle opening is bent almost vertical. Release wire not attached. Sorry for pbad pic but I'm taking pics on a camcorder (no camera :( ). If you look closely you can see that I am holding the end of the release cable. Edit, I just took a closer look at this pic. That plastic triangle piece to the right of the cable end is what it was attached to but it is broken. And that is about it. We were supposed to start the brake teardown today but my step dad is dipping out on me. He is afraid of getting a little wet and it is supposed to rain at some point some where within a 50 miles radius... What can I say, he is a wimp :P Whom ever you got that truck from, go kick them in the dick for using a rattle can under the hood like that. For fucks sake. 4 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Haha, yea, Atleast the more parts I replace the more blue I remove. I couldn't believe they even painted the fuel lines and plug wires... Lines have been replaced, wires will be replace in a few weeks (next pay check). For some reason all old cars/trucks down here come with the token ford blue engine bay. My just to happens to have come with the special edition house paint rolled onto the exterior and dash as well... Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I'm sure this is posted somewhere but I wanted to be able to reference it easily for when I get home and I'm too lasy to put this somewhere else... http://www.ratdat.com/?p=340 Thanks for the link DeviousPsycho. This will be perfect. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Projekt moar lowar! Looks good to me :P Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Well, I haven't gotten anything done on the truck due to being really sick, but I did pick up another Datsun. It will be delivered by the 24th. Pic courtesy of the previous owner :) I did pick up some tires for the truck and I'm getting ready to refinish the steelies. Just have to bust the bead on the old dry-rotted tires. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 No new pics as it was a busy day and I had to go to work. I got new tires put on the truck and an oil change. 205/60 front (thanks to MM47) 205/65 rear. I have too much space between the fender and tires in the front so I really need new bump stops and to re-index the torsion bars. I also had the old beat tires taken off of my set of steelies. Not sure if I am going to refinish them or not. Ride quality is much better but I have a really hard pull to the right/passenger when I press the brakes. Going to try to check it out tomorrow but it depends on how busy I am with work. In other news, my civic sold. Surprised my mom because she has been trying to get me to sell it for two years. If only she knew that it selling meant more Datsun parts :) Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Well, I have been waiting to update this thread till I made some progress, but I figured I should cover my minor carnage that happened last week. I was driving down the road and at 40mph I started getting a horrible vibration. So much so that I thought I was losing a rim. I rolled about 20ft, trying to make it to the shoulder, and then I heard it. That dreaded bang. I immediately knew what had happened and stopped ASAP. Called the wrecker before I stepped out of the truck. No pics of the road side damage, but here are the results: Litte scuff on the muffler: Some on the bed: Flange seems ok? Not sure really: And the final icing on the cake. This little bit of damage had me light headed for 10 hours (sitting at a desk at work): Called the radiator shop that cleaned and coated my B210 gas tank, they said they can weld the tank and coat it. Have to take it down there to get an estimate. Fun times I must say. Now I'm stuck sharing my mom's Cherokee sport. At least it gets better mileage... New project, I need to get seals for the rear end, new bolts for the drive shaft, check the u-joints, and I'm trying to find a local shop that can build a one piece drive shaft. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Ben's Radiator quoted me $60 to fix the tank and seal it. $20 cheaper than the B210 tank. I'm supposed to pick it up either Thursday or Friday. Going to pick up new hardware to attach the driveshaft. Anyone happen to know what size bolts/ect I'll need? Couldn't find the info in the haynes manual. Sadly I will be stuck with the stock driveshaft for now, still can't find a local shop to make me a one piece. Going to contact the driveshaft shop and see what measurements I will need to get one made. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 should be able to take em your old one and call it good man, at least that all i did Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Yea, I can't find a local shop that will build one. I meant to say I would contact http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ to see what measurements they need. Once I get the correct measurements I can call the shop MM47 used in Atlanta and compare their price to driveshaftshop's price and go from there. Edit: after looking at their site I see how to measure the driveshaft :P Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Well, driving home this morning everything was fine. Then I got off the interstate... In neutral my truck sounded like it was revving the same as when I'm running 75 in 4th (no tach). Luckily, I knew what was going on and got home with no red-lights... Parked it, pop the hood and grab the carb. Yep, wiggle wiggle. For some reason I keep forgetting to pick up locktight for the adapter... I've had the carb installed since march, it has come loose twice. No pics of the work, just frustration. On a good note, I tore it down and had everything back on tight within 25 minutes. Not bad for having rummage around to find the elusive 10mm wrench :P Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 have lockwashers on the carb? Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Yea, lock washers are on the studs at the top, but the bottom adapter uses hex key bolts and those are the problem. Wish I had bought a tall adapter now. Quote Link to comment
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