makya Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 I know I should search, but I don't know where to start for this one. I came across a cheap running z24 engine and tranny, and am thinking about putting it in the 4x while I build an LZ22. Do I need to fabricate mounts, or can I use the L or Z mounts? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 same mounts... but the z24s are prone to cracking the blocks, even if it is a runner it could already be cracked... I vote save your money. Quote Link to comment
makya Posted June 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Is that why I hear the rumor that LZ builds tend to crack? Quote Link to comment
cg78 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I have a LZ22 no cracks. The z24 is known for cracking, but not only that it is very hard to do an Lz24 because of the deck height. You would need to make your own front cover. If you or any of you are going to do an LZ22 remember only get the block with the casting w58. My builder said it was the strongest and is what I am using. The mounts are just changed between the two so LZ or L just swap the mounts. There is more to it than that. If you want to know more post back. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I know I should search, but I don't know where to start for this one. I came across a cheap running z24 engine and tranny, and am thinking about putting it in the 4x while I build an LZ22. Do I need to fabricate mounts, or can I use the L or Z mounts? Last fall I put a Z24 in my 78. Used the Z mounts, no problems. If you plan an LZ motor, hang on to the L mounts for that. Being a 4X4, is the L oil pan modified for front axle clearance? If it is you may have to modify the Z24 pan. The Z24 does not have a fuel pump on it so get an electric. The oil pressure sender is compatible with the 620 dash light. same mounts... but the z24s are prone to cracking the blocks, even if it is a runner it could already be cracked... I vote save your money. I've heard that too, just never seen one. Never heard of an engine going bad that was caused by a crack. Many are found on tear down but it doesn't stop them from running. Ask Hainz about L20Bs that have been rejected for cracks. Cracks (small hair line, within reason) are a natural stress reliever and I think, over rated. I wonder how many L20Bs are out there chuggin' along with some kind of crack in them? More than you would want to know about. Quote Link to comment
makya Posted June 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 thanks mike, my pan is not modified, I did move the spring hangers forward 2" so the axle will clear easier. I already have an electric fuel pump in it. cg, I've already got a z22 block torn down, so the z24 is just a temp motor to keep the truck running for a while while I build the LZ22 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 My Z24 ran 30,000 miles (plus, I don't know how long it was cracked before I got it) with the crack into a cylinder. And the crack, which did cause it to lose water, wasn't what killed it- it burnt a valve. Most of them crack around the head bolt holes into the cooling jacket, and removing the headbolts ends up destorting the weak spots, destroying the engine. Quote Link to comment
cg78 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 thanks mike, my pan is not modified, I did move the spring hangers forward 2" so the axle will clear easier. I already have an electric fuel pump in it. cg, I've already got a z22 block torn down, so the z24 is just a temp motor to keep the truck running for a while while I build the LZ22 Cool just try to make sure it is a w58 casting and let me know if you need any help. Quote Link to comment
79datsun620 Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 yeah, i just brought a cracked z24 to the scrap yard.:blink: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 Was it running when you took it apart? Quote Link to comment
79datsun620 Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 you talkin to me?:cool: Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 You would need to make your own front cover. i used (and will modify it more) a stock Z24 cover on my LZ24. Ask Hainz about L20Bs that have been rejected for cracks. Cracks (small hair line, within reason) are a natural stress reliever and I think, over rated. I wonder how many L20Bs are out there chuggin' along with some kind of crack in them? More than you would want to know about. i think im a close second :lol: my JY installed L20 blew a HG (after ~45K and a missing TC tensioner) around the minor crack between 2&3. i would have fixed and used it for a stock rebuild w/o much concern... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 For sure, if you are building a race motor or maybe a hot street turbo motor then yeah you can afford to go through a few finding the 'right' one. Machine shops get overly picky Because they don't want you coming back pissed off. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted June 27, 2008 Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 Cool just try to make sure it is a w58 casting and let me know if you need any help. you're talking about the head right? I wouldn't say w58's are the "best" though... Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted June 27, 2008 Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 my only reason to reject the z24 in this case... other than the common issues, is the fact that hes already building a better motor... unless you just REALLY wanna drive it that bad. Quote Link to comment
cg78 Posted June 27, 2008 Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 you're talking about the head right? I wouldn't say w58's are the "best" though... There are two types of z22's and the number casted on the block and crank. I just went and looked at mine lmao it is o6w block w58 head. This was origninally built over 4 years ago. Sorry for the mix up. None of the napsz heads are worth a crap. There are many things wrong with them and in the datsun book it says a cross flow head on a datsun 4 is not necessary the six is a different story. Just so you know O6W is the better block. The number is on the side just below the oil filter. I understand the z24 is to be used for a temp motor. I was just trying to give my input/ help on your LZ22 build. Quote Link to comment
LAYEDOUTB2K Posted June 27, 2008 Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 my dads been racin LZ24 motors for years now and has never had any problems with cracking. he was running 16.1:1 compression and really high RPMs so they were getting pushed hard. Quote Link to comment
makya Posted June 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2008 zuum, the LZ will be a sloooooow build(time & money), so I was going to drop in a running temp motor for a while so I could still take the 4x out. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Did you end up getting it? I was just thinking about this again, and it seems like you could find a decent ka24e for cheap as well... fuel injection in a 4x means ultimate angles over a carb setup, more power and torque over the z24, you may just forget about the lz22... :lol: theres even a write up here by Icehouse you could use as a guideline... although he did a 2wd swap, a lot of the info would apply, and some of the limitations would be exempt, but I'm sure other issues would surface... check it out here; http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?p=383#post383 Good luck regardless, not matter what I'm sure you'll have fun wheelin. Quote Link to comment
makya Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 No, by the time I made up my mind it was gone. I just missed out on a Diesel with the 5 speed and transfer case attached for $800, too...:( Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 gah, sorry bro... hope I didn't cause you to miss out... Quote Link to comment
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