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need help with switching distributor on my l20 b


Rasp933

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Since someone asks this question every week, you'd think there would be a writeup done for it. But I do not see any Pinned/Sticky topic under Electrical.

 

No, you don't need to elminate the ballast resistor.

 

You don't need to do anything except replace the distributor and connect the two wires. Simple and reliable it is.

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This is now pinned at the front of the Electrical section.

 

Changing only the distributor does not change anything, it only eliminates the points. You will never have to change them again, they're gone. Otherwise you won't notice anything at all.

 

Changing the coil to a matching EI coil that can handle the extra current load, (no your points coil won't. It will over heat) and ridding yourself of the ballast resistor, as it's not needed now, will immediately give you increased spark output. Increasing the plug gaps from 0.032" to around 0.038" to 0.042" will give a longer fatter spark. You may notice quicker starts and smoother idling with the EI system. 

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I have never been impressed with the expensive MSD option when there were equally good (and probably better) Nissan parts that fit and worked for way less. Course you couldn't brag about how much you spent to do the same as the stock EI but you could always rattle can red the coil.I have never seen a matchbox module that was verified as 'burned out'.

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I've also never come across a bad matchbox, having worked with dozens of them. But I hear they can overheat if the distributor is turned to face the exhaust header, or go bad if the two wires are hooked up backwards. Assuming you don't do either of those, the chance of going bad driving down the road is nil. Not many of us carry a spare, because the genuine Hitachi box just doesn't go bad.

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