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Ballast Resistor?


73DATSON

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The Pertronix instructions say use the ballast resisitor(1.6 ohm) with the stock coil(1.6 ohm)

 

no not use any other coil with this set up. It can/may or may not pop the module. Most Mallory Uniltes pop this wayalso  as people remove the ballast in a point system

I have had mine for over 10 years on 3 cars and not proplems except the magnet ring tape may wear out.

 

Some people tell I don't need it?

Who are these people?  aYou can get rid of it if you buyy the 3 ohm coil they sell for it. But its not needed and will start better with the stock set up as the HOT stat wire bybasses the resisitor and provides more current to the coil in the start position. Remember in start the batter losses alot voltage as the starter is sucking alot of the power.

 

 

However if you have a MSD you have to look it up as then it might be just a trigger and not need it for sure but ck the instruction on the web somewhere.

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Iam assumming a MSD 6A box.

I had a diagram somewhere on this

Im not a big Fan of these 6 A boxes as alot of guys  run them on the Realm and say the match box set up is good enough.

 

The L motor dizzy shaft worm gear set up really dont like going above 7 k anyways bfore its just kinda inaccurate on the timming. Thats why they had crankfire ignition(electrimotive) after that to get it better

 

6A goes to one spark after 3 k rmps anyways I beleive

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Every ignition system works the same way.  There is a coil, and a switch, in series.  Sometimes there is also a resistor. 

The coil and the resistor are the load, the switch is just that, a switch, controlled by the engine, somehow.

 

If you use a "super high energy mega zapper" low resistance coil with a set of points without the resistor the switch has to switch too much current, and burns out.   The same thing can happen with a Pertronix unit, or a Unilite setup, or whatever "black box" ignition system is used to replace the points.   You can also run into a case where the "switch" can handle the current, but the coil cannot.  These coils are usually marked "use with ballast resistor".

 

It just so happens that a Nissan designed Matchbox distributor, with the matching coil just happens to be one of the better ignition systems available for our L-engines.

 

If your coil says to use with ballast resistor, use a ballast resistor.  If your aftermarket ignition system says to use a ballast resistor, use a ballast resistor.

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The Pertronix instructions say use the ballast resisitor(1.6 ohm) with the stock coil(1.6 ohm)

 

no not use any other coil with this set up. It can/may or may not pop the module. Most Mallory Uniltes pop this wayalso  as people remove the ballast in a point system

I have had mine for over 10 years on 3 cars and not proplems except the magnet ring tape may wear out.

 

Some people tell I don't need it?

Who are these people?  aYou can get rid of it if you buyy the 3 ohm coil they sell for it. But its not needed and will start better with the stock set up as the HOT stat wire bybasses the resisitor and provides more current to the coil in the start position. Remember in start the batter losses alot voltage as the starter is sucking alot of the power.

 

 

However if you have a MSD you have to look it up as then it might be just a trigger and not need it for sure but ck the instruction on the web somewhere.

 

I have been over this time and again with customers. I agree with Hainz that the ballast resistor needs to be used, but which one? The Pertronix instructions don't actually specify which one to use. The instructions give you some pointers but you need first to figure it out using your coil and an ohm meter. Coils are not all built equal and the resistance range across the coil affects the ohm resistance requirements of the ballast resistor.

 

I just checked their website for instructions, and they are different from what I remember. I will try to find my paper copy that explains the ballast resistor requirements, but for now, read the coil requirements below.

 

I copied this directly from their website.

 

What type of coil can I use with the Ignitor™? How do I check my coils resistance? (12V negative ground only)

To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.

Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts.

The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle.

Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.

Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.

Four and six cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.

Example

Voltage 12

Resistance 1.5

12 / 1.5 = 8

Total amperage 8

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most cases the ballast you use ia already on your car or the resisitve wire on the car. Also assume the coil with the car or designed with the car is already figured out from the factory to run the points. And ther Pertronix is a Point conversion.

 

As with the MSD 6A find the instructions as the Pertronix might just be used as a trigger

 

found it

http://www.msdignition.com/assets/0/1281/1282/1283/ba2a88ea10844973bb17fd81248a5e29.JPG

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="banzai510(hainz)" data-cid="812774" data-time="1355507456"><p>

most cases the ballast you use ia already on your car or the resisitve wire on the car. Also assume the coil with the car or designed with the car is already figured out from the factory to run the points. And ther Pertronix is a Point conversion.<br />

<br />

As with the MSD 6A find the instructions as the Pertronix might just be used as a trigger<br />

<br />

found it<br />

<a href='http://www.msdignition.com/assets/0/1281/1282/1283/ba2a88ea10844973bb17fd81248a5e29.JPG'>http://www.msdignition.com/assets/0/1281/1282/1283/ba2a88ea10844973bb17fd81248a5e29.JPG</a></p></blockquote>

That's what I have. That's how I hook it up. Car starts up right alway and runs good. Going to take it out to see how it drivers.

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Ok now I love you guys cause you know stuff, and get me out of a lot of JAMS!!! But this MSD IS INSANE:-))) car is running sooooo much better good starts and great runs so far. I'm waiting for the ISKY CAM then I'm heading for a dyno. THX:-))

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I have 4 pertronix igniters, and none of them have ballast resisters. It's the coil that determines whether you need it or not.( as others already stated)

 

 2 of mine run the pertronix flamethrower coil that has the right resistance

 

My sandrail has had one in it that i've owned since the early 90's. With a msd blaster coil.

 

The 521 has a msd 6al and a blaster coil. The 6al is supposed to push 480 volts to the coil.I believe the instructions say to open the plug gap to .055 as a starting point. Mine works perfect. I never even pulled a plug last year.

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