dr.feltersnatch Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 so i have been trying to figure this one out and i am stumped. when i crank the car over it cranks fine but no start, until i release the key. you can crank it as long as you like and no start. the second you turn it to run it fires right up. so i figure in the start position its bypassing something, just not sure what exactly. so my question is would a faulty resistor block cause this? how much resistance should it have? any other ideas? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 this is the Hotstart wire. I believe its the blk/blu wire that should get 12volt in start position. this wire should go to the +12coil. Its usually Y spliced under the tape near the coil. Sometimes you can reseat the plug connector under the key. I seen it loose there(bad connection) NO the resisitor block is working if the car RUNS in the On position as the power comes from the blk/ wht wire to the Ballasist resisitor then to the + side coil. page 181 of your Haynes manual will show this. I know you have this. I would take the blk blu wire turn key to start and see if you get 12volts or use a test light. You can remove the yellow starter wire to the seliniod to trouble shoot this so motor is not cranking. the ballast is 1.6 ohms but on most meters it looks like a short. 1 way is to put key to on and youll get 12volts on the blk/wht wire side and I think about 6-9 volts on the otherside. Point sytem you want a stock 510 point coil or like 1.6 ohms(no MSD or SUPER COILS!!!!!!) and the ballast .1.6 ohms. any newer EI coil is wrong and will burn up the points I think KM63 lives up in arlington and makes 510 fiberglass Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 This is usually the case of a bad ignition switch... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 as Laecaon said it could be the switch not working in the START postion. I have never seen this myself of a switch going bad. thats why ttrouble shoot. The Y splice under tape where the blk grn and blk blu wire are at. could be loose Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 More common than ign switch is simple loose connection at coil or ballast resistor. Especially where push-on connectors are used. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 . Sometimes you can reseat the plug connector under the key. I seen it loose there(bad connection) winner winner chicken dinner! i pulled the plug off the back of the ign switch and put it back on, bingo fires right up. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 if you still have an external resistor coil (i worked on this car before but dont remember what coil was in it) get a blaster 2 coil, they work way better and put out more voltage Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 MSD Blaster 2 or 3 are for electronic ignition . You can use them with a resistor but they will still shorten points life. GT40 or GT40R coil is for points. GT40 is good, but does not make any more HP than stock if the points are adjusted correctly and in good working order. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 Glad to hear reseating the ign connector resolved the starting problem. Now im wondering how many people bought new ign switch when reseating the connector was all that was needed... Quote Link to comment
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