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38 DGEV Electric Choke to manual?


VValicente

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I believe there is kits that do this.

have you tried adjusteing yours. Loosen the 2 or 3 screw on the round plastic and turn it one way or the other. to get more or less choke.

a 78 should have a 12volt wire near there to get power for it.

piercemanifolds might have a conversion. its just a new plstic cap with a wire to pull the lever(flaps) kinda chezzy really

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Actually, I don't have the carb yet. I wanted to make sure it was really possible before I go ahead and get it. Also, Im pretty new to carbs so I didn't know there was actual adjustments I could make to the choke plates. But as for why I want to change to manual is because well idk I just like to have as much control over the engine as possible and having as little electronics as possible. Plus although it probably doesn't matter for warm up and what not, but I'm not sure what cam and pistons I have in the engine, so idk how that will affect it.

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..... But as for why I want to change to manual is because well idk I just like to have as much control over the engine as possible and having as little electronics as possible.

 

Damn.... control freak much? Learn to let go. :lol: The electric choke will do a better job than you ever could.

 

 

 

Plus although it probably doesn't matter for warm up and what not, but I'm not sure what cam and pistons I have in the engine, so idk how that will affect it.

 

The stock '74 has an electric choke so I'm sure it will survive the Weber.

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DGEV= electric

DGAV= aqua

DGV= manual

 

As Hainz and DatzenMike said, just feed the electric choke some keyed juice, adjust it, and close the hood. I've had both, and electric is the way to go.

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"The electric choke will do a better job than you ever could."

 

This is true ha ha but still. Also the carb I have on here is the Weber 32 34 dgv? (Can't really remember correctly) California smog carb which when I got the 620 it was trying to idle at 500 so I turned it up to about 1000, 1100 when "fully" warmed up. Well just a little bit ago the idle kicked up to 2000. The chokes been fully disconnected on it and so has all the smog crap. All that's left are the plates. So I'm looking into that right now..

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"You are looking at the wrong stuff. 500 rpm idle is closer to stock than 1100"

 

I know, its supposed to idle at 750, but this carb is next to literally dumping fuel into the engine. It idle like shit at 750 and it fouls the hell out of the plugs below 1500 so it starts to heavily misfire. Its running extremely rich. For example I pulled the plugs out and they were covered with dry black soot. So I cleaned them off with a wire brush, stuck them back in and let it idle for about 5-10 mins, pulled them out again and they were coated again.

 

"Why did the idle suddenly change? Answer that and youll know how to correctly fix it"

 

And si. That's what I'm trying to do right now. Well in a couple minds I will be.

 

"The stock '74 has an electric choke so I'm sure it will survive the Weber."

 

Also this is true to but the engine isn't stock. There's probably a bigger cam in there, possibly the L20b cam and most likely higher compression pistons. The compression test averaged 185psi where as from factory it should be like 171psi. But yea it definitally should be fine.

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