mklotz70 Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 If your e-brake is working, you can typically set it and eliminate the rear adjustment issues.....at least as they affect the bleeding operation. Once you set the e-brake, you pump the pedal once.....after that, the rear cyls are not going anywhere.....but the e-brake has to be working for this to work. It's usually a real pain to deal with both circuits at the same time. Once you get some kind of pressure in the fronts, then you can release the e-brake and bleed the rears. As much as it might sound like I know this stuff......I still end up fighting with brake bleeding sometimes. :( Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Okay well After months of trial and error completely replumbing the whole thing. I gave up and took it to a local mechanic that Ive had stuff done with him before. It gets dropped off at 9am and I get a call at 12 its ready he says! What do you mean its ready? its ready come and pick it up, the pedal is stiff and it stops now! Okay be right over. So what did you do? I ask. Took me a minute but I figured it out. he says You had the calipers switched from left to right the bleeders were on the bottom they need to point up on top. For Future reference he says When the bleeders are down youll never get all the air out of the calipers. So I switched them and now bleeders are on top and it stops. UGHHHHH!!!!!!!! Okay so it was my fault the whole time. heres some pics of her today 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 So thanks for everyones help I drove it 10 miles today for the first time. It runs great!! 2 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Great looking wagon. Now keep it looking that good and it just may pay for your retirement! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Dang...should have jumped on that trip to Vegas! LOL!! I'm glad it's up and running. I guess we now know to ask that question. I think in that brake upgrade, the calipers are used on the opposite side from their stock location. I probably should have caught that sooner. Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Yea no problem Mike Im just glad its running, now I can focus on getting it cleaned up. But good for others to know Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Hello everyone, okay instead of starting a second thread thought Id just add to this one. I sold my wagon awhile back so now I am doing a second swap on my 2nd 411 here is some pics of #2. Its been sitting awhile so never mind the dust, also along with the swap roadster front springs to bring the front down a little. Before it goes up on stands thought Id get it running its been 2 years, new battery and some fresh gas were in business it fired up and didn't even smoke!! . . . 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Took some measurements before taking it apart to see what kind of drop I will get with the roadster front springs. Front Rear . . 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Got right down to work . Got these from ebay they are off of a 66-67 roadster . Got the front spring out and here it is next to the 411 front spring. . Here it is installed Also pulled off the drum setup and the bearing spacer . Roadster spring in place Thats it for today waiting on some parts from Mike and Rock Auto. 2 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Okay back to work on this thing . . . . . Driver SD . . 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 The Rotors were opened up to 3" and the new MKLOTZ lug sleeves were used 2 per side. I also installed 510 rear wheel cylinders they worked great !! Mikes kit fit perfectly and the car stops real nice best thing about this is you can now get brake parts anywhere!! . . . . . . . 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Before Springs . After 66 roadster springs installed. This pic was taken right when I got done. So I am sure itll come done a little more. . 1 Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Okay Mike, I know your super busy but can I convince you to make a lower ball joint carrier bracket? Something that can hold a ball joint from another vehicle ? Reason is the lower ball joints for the 411s are near impossible to find, and when u do find them they are $450. I asked a member who was looking into this and this is what he sent me. I got an all-consuming job just as I was about to enter into mocking up a carrier, and then I recently bought a set of NOS 555 aftermarket LBJs. I got so far as to identify a viable joint: K9617, the LBJ from a Dodge Colt. By viable I mean that it has a small body that will fit inside a ring with the same outer diameter of the stock carrier ring, and the pin size and taper match the stock unit. I also measured and modeled the key points and angles of the stock carrier so that I could reproduce them. It's worth noting that the Dodge Colt has struts, and the Internet makes a big deal out of the fact that LBJs on cars with struts do not face very much load, as that is carried by the strut head, and thus should not be used as the LBJ in an SLA car. And, indeed, the ball of the Colt LBJ is only 60% the size of the stock Datsun 411 ball. But, I cut open the LBJ of a Chevy Chevette (#K6273 above) and found that its ball was the same size. And, the Chevette has SLA with the spring on the lower arm, so, given its weight, it should face similar or greater loads than any LBJ installed in the Datsun. So, my conclusion is that the Colt LBJ should be just find in the Datsun 411, although it will obviously likely wear much faster. To double check, I've ordered higher-end examples of both the Colt and Chevette ball joints from Moog to see if the ball diameters are still the same. 3 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 It's on the list! LOL!!! I have a source for custom pins, so I'm considering using high misalignment mono balls. I'm setting up a new laptop.....hopefully, it will handle the vid editing a lot better so that I can have more time for CAD work. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 My only input would be if your up grading year wise having a dodge colt or chevette ball joint may put you into the same problem with parts sourcing just a tiny bit down the road. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 That's a very good point and something I have been considering. A monoball will be cheap and easy to replace and should be fairly easy to get. If it's a custom pin, that only causes an issue if it's damaged....but then it becomes a big issue if there are no more left. Some of the chrysler joints I've looked at have a very widespread use and availability would no be an issue. Another option I've though about is using a tapered sleeve to adapter the hole size to something more common. They have sleeves to change the taper, so I don't see why a similar one to just change the size wouldn't be okay. Quote Link to comment
p411 Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Wow Mike! very excited I will wait patiently and thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment
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