Track day build w/ Troy Ermish Z24 frankenstein engine

[bigblockgq]

Im installing Bride seats. I had to make a base in the 510, also I wanted to try to reinforce the floor with the design..

[bigblockgq]

[bigblockgq]

Bases in and drilled, seat in for fitment. Most of the roll cage is being cut out and re done it was in the car and not installed correct.

[bigblockgq]

Control arms and TC rods going in to replace stock. Futofab, really nice stuff.

 

[bigblockgq]

Welded most of the factory holes in engine bay and smoothed it out, primed and re painted.

 

[bigblockgq]

[bigblockgq]

I have noticed other people's threads showing their previous builds so I thought it would be cool to share my last project as well.

 

 

 

 

This was my 1992 Mazda RX-7 imported from Japan, which I purchased with a blown rotary and proceeded to refit with a 6.0L LS2 mated to a T56 6-speed trans.

 

After countless hours (I can't even begin to count how many hundreds) into the car, I sold it to a good friend of mine and we plan to finish the last 10% of the build together. 

 

 

The engine received basic bolt-ons including intake manifold, stainless steel tubular headers, a mild cam (plus supporting valvetrain parts) and a hand-fabricated 3.5" exhaust, finished with a Borla XR1 muffler.

 

 

The clutch is a stock LS7-spec unit (C6 Corvette Z06) and the flywheel is a lightened piece from Fidanza. The one-piece aluminum driveshaft and custom axles were sourced from The Driveshaft Shop.

 

 

 

 

 

The idea was to have a totally track-ready car that was still civilized enough to drive every day. Fabricated brake ducts to help cool the front rotors. 

 

 

 

 

 

oil cooler + air duct  (who knew that a front plate could actually be useful)

 

 

 

 

front 3/4 shot in pit lane during one of its first lapping days

 

 

 

the business end

 

 

 

 

the office (with functional ice-cold A/C)

 

 

 

 

2003-04 Mustang Cobra (clutch-type LSD) IRS differential swap with 3.73 gears

 

 

 

 

Tanabe Sustec front stabilizer bar and HSD coilovers with Swift springs. Tires are Hankook Ventus RS-3s,  255/35/18 front and 285/35/18 rear

 

 

 

Since we all know that project cars are "never quite finished", stuff left to do on the RX-7 includes replacing some of the suspension pieces (Mazda uses spherical joints on these cars from the factory, which like to wear out after approx 50k miles), adjusting the throttle pedal location for easier heel-toe (drive-by-wire so shouldn't be too difficult), finalizing the EFI tune, corner balancing, and maybe some fancier seats. 

 

 

[Eagle_Adam]

bad ass RX7 man! super clean and RHD! 

[bigblockgq]

Thought I would post some pictures of a problem I’m having with the front sway bar, I would like see if anyone else has had the same issues and possible corrections used. The sway bar is basically pinching/rubbing the frame area when the lower control arm is compressed. The radius of the sway bar where it turns back from the frame to the control arm area is the problem. I have made a 1/4” spacer to put above the sway bar bushing u bracket to bring it down slightly which helps a bit clearance wise. I also shortened the sway bar links around an inch to keep the bar turned down slightly for more clearance in compression. The engine cross member front lip had to be bent down as well to clear the bar as it rotated, it was hitting. The sway bar is from Quickor Engineering, I have front and rear bars from them.

 

[datzenmike]

Put a 1/4" shim in there.

[aintnobiscuit]

suuuuper sexy build... it makes me want to go back and start over on mine, LOL

[Silver04rs]

I think that may be the only real RHD FD in the states to get a LS Swap

 

 

great looking car (on my list of things to own someday)

[bigblockgq]

Put a 1/4" shim in there.

 

Ya I did put a shim in, maybe I need more? [see picture]  Is this a common problem/concern with 510?  Have you had to shorten the links as well ? Bend the lip of the engine cross member ?

 

Thanks

[datzenmike]

I thought that lip was supposed to be bent upward slightly.

 

Normally the sway bar should clear the frame rails. Perhaps it would be closer on a lowered car and rub when the suspension compresses...

[bigblockgq]

I thought that lip was supposed to be bent upward slightly.

 

Normally the sway bar should clear the frame rails. Perhaps it would be closer on a lowered car and rub when the suspension compresses...

 

When you say the lip, the engine cross member ? it was up, I bent it down to clear the sway bar center  rotation.

[datzenmike]

Right, got it.

[bigblockgq]

suuuuper sexy build... it makes me want to go back and start over on mine, LOL

 

Thanks, I know what you mean. Looks like you have put a lot of time into your build, looks good.

[bigblockgq]

I think that may be the only real RHD FD in the states to get a LS Swap

 

 

great looking car (on my list of things to own someday)

 

 

Im in Canada, lol

 

Thanks

[bigblockgq]

Control arms T/C and sway bar installed, had to cut the sway bar link right down to stop interference also had to add spacer to sway bar bushing clamp to help eliminate interference

 

[bigblockgq]

Sold my Ermish stage one suspension, had stage two on order and moved on, I had ground control build me a new set for track street use. Very low, short springs lol. Caster camber plates, they modified my original housings and added supports to strengthen them. Really nice job ! Great to deal with.

 

 

[bigblockgq]

[rusty12ver]

Those look bitchin'!

[bigblockgq]

Rear sway bar installed I think its a Quikor Engineering front and rear.  It rubs everything I love it, grind that rim. 3mm spacers seemed ok till I was at the track wfo and found out the sway bar was still hungry. Gave it a hair cut with the grinder.

 

 

[bigblockgq]

Koni Sport adjustable dampening front and rear.

 

[DottiBlue]

Money money. Looks real nice!