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need a 520/521 turn signal/hi beam switch


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520 does not use a foot switch. It's part of the turn signal lever, at least in '67-68. Don't know about '66. But I don't know if 520/521 switches are the same, as 520s use separate bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals, whereas I believe 521s use combined brake/turn bulbs. There's significant wiring differences if that's the case.

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The very first Datsun I had was registered as a 1967 520, and that was in high school. I graduated from HS in 1973, barely.

I seem to recall it having two headlights, and a foot switch. Also somewhere in the last few days, a wiring diagram of a 520 was posted, and it had the foot switch.

I know Datsun makes changes in the cars and trucks without changing the model number. Example, there are two headlight 520 trucks, and four headlight 520 trucks. There are early 521 trucks that have reflectors instead of side marker lights, and there are J-13 and L-16 521 trucks.

Datsun may have introduced the first 520 two headlight trucks with a foot switch headlight dimmer, and when they went to four headlights, changed to the steering column, relay headlight switching. They also could have changed the switch before the headlight number change, to test it out, or after, because it became necessary due to four headlights drawing more current. It could of happened, just at a random time, because Datsun decided to make the change, and when they ran out of foot switches in the factory, that started to put in the turn signal/ relay version.

And then there is the possibility that a previous owner changed something. There is also the possibility a vehicle made for another country has been imported into the USA.

 

OH, yea, 521 trucks have separate turn signals, and brake lights. At least the four 521's I have had do.

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Yep....mines a 66 and it came with a floor switch but since I changed harnesses to a 521 I knew I had to grab the matching switch for it and that's what I got now........so I just walked in from the garage and here's what's up......total mayhem.....the separate white wire that uses the bullet connector outside the 4 pin switch plug is oscillating power in from the flasher relay and the switch just distributes the power right?.....so I jumped that wire to the right signal output wire and it turns on like its supposed to and when I jump the left signal wire nothing happens not even the relay clicks......so now I'm thinking its not the switch after all since I can't even jump the switch to make it work.....however, again.....nothing happens when the keys in the on/acc position but when I turn the key off the relay does its timed click but no signal action at the lights.....and when the park lights are on the front left corner is super dim......lol it gets better......and when I jump the terminals for the left flasher I get oscillating voltage on the meter but when I connect the light to the connectors for the turn signal/park light.......the relay shuts up again and stops clicking.........haha I'll rip that whole leftside circuit apart and run a dedicated flasher relay for each side if I have to but I'd rather not if its something simple.....oh yeah and the indicator lights for the signals in the gauges don't work either..... lol awesome....

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Lets start with this.

521wires.jpg

I forgot the source of the colored wires on this diagram, I was so excited when I found it, I just copied it to my computer. A big thank you to who ever did the coloring.

 

Wacky electrical problems are almost always bad grounds. Parts that had good electrical contact when the truck left the Datsun factory may not have good electrical contact now.

The battery must have a good ground to the engine. The cable from the battery also has a pigtail that goes to the alternator frame. there is a second ground wire at the alternator frame, that goes to one of the bolts that hold the voltage regulator to the inner fender. This wire grounds the cab sheet metal.

At the voltage regulator, there is a second wire that grounds the headlights, and side marker lights, if equipped with them.

The engine must be grounded to the frame. Add a extra wire looping around a rubber engine mount.

The taillights ground to the metal frame of the taillight assembly, and the taillight frame grounds to the bed. The bed should ground to the frame, but I have found more than one 521 where the bed has lost the ground to the frame. Run an extra wire from the taillight frame to the frame of the truck. The front park and turn lights on a 521 ground to cab sheet metal. If your 520 has the turn signals that fit the curve on the front fenders, you need to make sure the front park lamp assembly has a good ground back to the cab sheet metal. Do not depend on it grounding to the fender, there is no guarantee the fender actually has a good ground to the cab sheet metal.

 

There are three electrical harnesses used on a 521. You should know that, since you replaced them, but somebody else reading this thread may be able to use this information. Engine room harness, cab harness, and the bed, or body harness. The engine and cab harness connect with a bunch of plugs behind the glove box. Any of these connections could have gone bad in the last forty years.

The bed harness plugs in to the engine room harness right side of the engine room, between the inner fender, and engine. These connectors could be bad also.

 

And finally, the fuse box. Never trust a fuse that looks good. Glass fuses can look good, and be bad. Always confirm you have voltage on both ends of the fuse, and into the wire harness beyond the fuse.

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+facepalm+ ok so just walked back in.....found out it was a couple things.....bad ground to the front signal and corroded positive wire going into the rear signal .....and more than anything it was cause I was using the 520 hazard switch.....wayyyy different inside I guess.....so signals work awesome via the switch now but no hi beam control.....so aside from that and needing a 521 hazard switch I think I'm golden.....really need to get off my McDonald's ass and make a build thread for this thing....

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It is not going to be obvious on how the 521 hazard switch works, so here goes. There are two sections in this switch. When the hazard switch is off, power from the ignition switch can pass through the hazard switch, and then goes to the turn signal flasher. The turn signal feeds the turn signal switch on the steering column.

When you pull out the hazard switch, the turn signal part gets turned off, and power from the hazard flasher, (always hot) gets switched to both left and right turn signals.

 

Headlight wiring.

Thick red wire from fuse box goes into cab, and to the headlight switch, that also has two isolated sections. When headlights are on, the headlight switch applies power to a thick red with a yellow strip wire. This wire goes to the headlight relay. The headlight relay normally closed contacts pass power to the low beam headlights, on as red with black stripe wire. The coil in the headlight relay also has power applied to it, from the red/w yellow wire.

When you push the turn signal lever away from you, it grounds the coil of the headlight relay. The headlight relay then switches power from the red w/black wire to the red w/white wire. This wire goes to all four headlights, high beam.

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Alright cool....again more info I don't have.....I'm serious dude I owe you 2 burgers and a 6pack at this point..........but yeah so what I'm getting then is the light green wire with the white stripe is the ground wire coming off the switch.....? ......I'll reaarange some stuff and check it out......sofar it hasn't made a different but I did upgarde to 2 30amp 4 pin relays since my oem one was shot......I'll try it and get back on here when I'm done

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The light green wire w/ white grounds the headlight relay coil, at the dimmer switch.

 

If you look back at the schematic diagram of a 521 I posted, you can see numbers on the relays in the diagram. You only need one Bosch cube relay. With a Bosch relay, red /w yellow, pin 30 and 86. Red /w black, pin 87A. Red /w white, pin 87. Light green /w white, pin 85.

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damn......there's where I went wrong.......2 4pins instead of a 5 pin......I'm across th street from autozone so I'll grab one.....makes wayyyyy more sense than what I was doing.....almost worked though! Haha.....be back in an hour with my results

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Sure enough! Had the relays wired wrong.....got the 5 pin relay and everything works tits!.....thanks to everyone involved for the help! Also doublechecked my grounds from the engine to the frame and they were junk (somehow) switched it out and it almost fired up just off the charger with no battery!! Haha....

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