BenTerrible Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I did some searching prior to posting this thread but I am still unable to resolve the issue. The 510 is completely stock with the L16. -New voltage regulator -New alternator 'CHG' indicator light is on. The system is not charging the battery. The alternator is the Hitachi, externally regulated of course. I double checked all connections, I am beginning to consider the idea that the 'new' alternator is a lemon. I checked that I have +12V going to the 'F' terminal (sense) on the Alt., and I do. Belt is good, not slipping at all. When running, I do not have a voltage increase out of the alternator. This is beginning to drive me crazy! Any help is appreciated! -BT Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Is it a cheapo "rebuilt"? Quote Link to comment
BenTerrible Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I'm not sure. I bought the car with these 'new' parts already installed. If I had to guess, I would say a cheap Ebay special. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Get the Alt bench tested(before) tearing into it.. And the regulator (test it aswell) alot of crap out there in the way of reman parts Quote Link to comment
BenTerrible Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Anyway to test voltage regulator in the car? I pulled the cover and points look good - not stuck. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I have seen bad regulators out of the box. My friend actually went through 2 bad ones at Napa, and finally a 3rd one worked. You say you dont see an increase of voltage. What voltage do you see at the positive battery post when running? Quote Link to comment
BenTerrible Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Prior to a deep cycle charge, I started with about 12.5V at the terminals with the car off. After starting the car and running it several times over the course of an hour I was down in the 11V range and this is when things got more weird. Car would crank, but not start. Car would start right up with jumper cables from another vehicle. Apparently 11V will not excite the ignition system??? Back to your question - Currently I am near 14V at the battery terminals with the car off. This does not change when I start the car. Obviously the voltage will drop again because the battery is supporting the running car without being recharged by the alternator. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I take it then you recharged the battery. Definitely go get the alternator checked. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Autozone and other parts stores will test the units for you -- for free. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 take the alternator in for TEST. I prefer the solid stae volt regs now. The Napa mechanical volt regs SUCK!!!!!!!!!unless it says made in Japan buy this http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor and trust it Quote Link to comment
converted_to_datsun Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Had charging problems with all new parts just like you're having. Check your battery cables. Where they are bolted to the cabled ends gets corroded and you have to take it all apart and clean the wire ends. I've had to do this a couple times Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 And you will have to do it again. Cleaning the battery cables is part of yearly maintenance. Quote Link to comment
converted_to_datsun Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Yep I was just saying he should check it. Mine look completely clean until you pull the clamps off then you find the corrosion. I do it every 6 months or so 1 Quote Link to comment
BenTerrible Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks guys. Pulled the alternator and had it tested - it failed. Bought a new one and threw it in and voila, we have charge! -BT Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I just went threw 2 rebuilds....threw in a old nasty IR Alt. from this 79...510 Charge light is off. I will go replace this bad one and keep it around for a back up to the old one I just put in! Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 This was the 2nd one I received.....Charge light was off for only a few minutes! Must have went to lunch break and forgot the nut and insulated washer... :frantics: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 should be a insolater around the threads to prevent hitting the case(ground) is that the +output ??? Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Yeah, this was missing the insulator! Not the +positive post! New one tomorrow. The IR one I threw in is a old one....the charge light flickered once today... :confused: Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.