Preventative rust maintence? Roll on rust sealer?

[choleaoum]

Hey guys, so I'm going to finish cleaning my interior and theres mild rust nothing major inside the interior. Is there some sort of rust sealer that I can just roll on that anyone here could recommend me? I plan to buy sheets of dynamat to put into my interior. I thought about the cheap lowes stuff but I heard it smells like crap & asphalt and sometimes doesn't stick. I'd rather pay once not twice.

[bonvo]

search man

[Dawa]

shelling out cash for dynamat and then cheaping out with the home improvement shit are 2 opposite extremes.

there are happy mediums. what im trying to say is, do some research and find something cheaper than but comparative to dynamat.

[qwik510]

I just did the back area floors of my 510 with Zero Rust. Works well. http://www.zerorustusa.com

 

I used it on another 510 that had some rust issues about 7 years ago and the rust never got any worse since treatment.

 

Make sure to remove all the tar sound deadening stuff first. That stuff traps water and causes rust.

 

Here are pics from the other day.

 

 

[DanielC]

My opinion, you have to remove the rust as completely as you can. You can not encapsulate it, or cover it.

We all know bare steel, when exposed to moisture, rusts. This is why. Rust is an electrolytic process, like a battery.

 

When exposed to moisture, the iron in steel molecules have a different galvanic voltage than carbon atoms in the steel, and this starts the conversion of the iron to iron oxide. Once that happens, the new iron oxide has a way different galvanic voltage, and the rust then feeds itself. This is a very basic explanation. If you want to "geek out" on rust, read this.

http://wwwchem.uwimo...rses/iron.html.

 

I know it is a "female dog" to remove all the rust. One way is to use electrolysis, but that gets difficult with bodys of a car, and cabs of Datsuns. This is how I have done electrolysis.

http://community.rat...l__electrolysis

 

In the case of small parts, you can also put then in a solution of molasses, and water. But this takes a long time.

 

Another option is to use steel wool, and a phosphoric acid solution. Here is one method.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secrets-surface-rust-removal-revealed-55679.html

and another.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ospho-solution-rust-removal-175465.html

 

Obviously, you can sand, grind, wire wheel, or sandblast rust away from metal. You can also take the entire body to a chemical stripper, that will remove the rust, but that removes paint from inside body parts you probably cannot reach with paint to protect the metal again.

 

I am now going to assume you have decided to remove the rust off the metal. Now, it is time to paint. The best paint to use at this point is an epoxy primer. I have been using PPG DPLF with DP 401, or DP 402 catalyst.

 

I am not a big fan of products that just cover the rust. The rust is still there, and if any moisture gets through to the rusty metal, the rusting starts again. And if you read the geeky article on rust, you know that rusted metal takes up more space than the steel it came from, and this forces the painted coating off the metal, and creates a space between the paint for moisture to get trapped.

[choleaoum]

Sounds great, I will remove the tar with some dry ice when I get the chance. I really want to remove every nook and cranny of rust but getting into the nooks and crannies is what ruining it for me as of right now. I don't have anything serious aside from just surface rust on my car. I would use my compressor and wire wheel all the surface rust away but my neighbors would kill me if it went on for 8 hours straight lol.