Extreme floor/tunnel temperatures... Kiiros first big road trip and problems!

[ohmrchristopher]

So took Kiiro for its first road trip (since I got it back together) from Vancouver BC to Kelowna BC about 1000km/700miles and I must say it did pretty good other then a few things I will list below:

 

Floor/tunnel/box heat. The box was kinda simple to figure out, the exhaust is pretty close to it. As for the floor/firewall/tranny tunnel I know the exhaust runs along the driver side, but I couldn't believe how hot the floor of the truck was getting. I was driving barefoot for a bit and burnt my toe! Is this normal? I have just the metal floor, no carpet or insulation. What can I do to cut down the heat? It was hottest when climbing up the mountains, which is expected, but crap that was crazy hot. And after seeing 4 car fires I was kinda getting worried...

 

While on heat, the engine heat climbs above normal going up the hills, and will drop below normal if I leave it out of gear and coast down the hill. Has my El Cheapo Lordco t-stat crapped out or can this be due to the 40 deg C/ 104F ambient temperature and straining a 4spd to climb a monster hill for 15-20min?

 

Also while going up the hill (beginning to think Kiiro doesn't like mountain passes...) I am pretty certain I was hearing detonation. I'd like to stick to 87 Octane, so I am assuming I just need to fix timing? I was playing with the 4th gear switch, engine noise sounded better with the switch unplugged. I am not sure whether to run it or not.

 

I did go to a JY and found a '75 Datto with a L20 that I took some goodies off of, inc the marker lights, cluster, single point dizzy, window trim, signal switch, clam shell/ignition. Not much time to pull the motor and diff though, which is a bummer. :( The engine/carb set-up was greatly different then my 73 and wasn't to sure what to grab. The carb itself was so corroded I didnt even bother trying to take anything other then a few screws I have missing. Also all the plug connections changed, weird.

 

Should I switch over to single point dizzy from the dual point? I didn't grab the coil as it was rusted to Scheiße but I grabbed the mounting base, just not the flange/rod into the block/oil pump.

 

Other then a really really terrifying noise a few times the trip was good. I need to repack my hubs and set my valves...

[datzenmike]

It's normal to get hotter when the motor works harder. Try to get a later L20B 3 core rad... it's a tight fit but should lower those temp spikes. Yes the floor gets hot so try a sheet metal heat shield between the exhaust and floor and some carpet and shoes. If you disable the second set of points it will run just the same as a single set.

[Dawa]

http://www.lobucrod.com/

[ohmrchristopher]

It's normal to get hotter when the motor works harder. Try to get a later L20B 3 core rad... it's a tight fit but should lower those temp spikes. Yes the floor gets hot so try a sheet metal heat shield between the exhaust and floor and some carpet and shoes. If you disable the second set of points it will run just the same as a single set.

 

The rad, sadly, was somewhat mangled. Are they still available through Rock Auto?

When I first got the truck I noticed the one set of points was unplugged amongst a lot of other things. I have the points back in and find it idles nicely. If I unplug the second point the idle spikes. Thoughts? Why did I buy the single point dizzy then?

 

I have swapped over the turn signal switch and to great joy the horn doesn't go off when I turn now, however my high-beams are always on...

 

other then that I am still trying to figure out the auto-choke and the BCDD, thoughts?

[datzenmike]

Emissions are reduced by retarding an engine's timing. Specially when the motor is still cold. The problem with retarded ignition is a lack of efficiency and power.

 

On a dual point the timing is set normally on the first set of points... say 12 degrees BTDC. The second set are for reducing emissions and when activated by the emissions system (engine cold, or in any gear but 4th but not full throttle) stay closed for an additional 4 degrees longer or 4 degrees of retard. This means your motor is really running 8 degrees of advance when the second set are in use.

 

They work together like this.... the first set closes. the second set closes. the first set opens but because the second set are still closed nothing happens. 4 degrees later the second set opens and the coil fires.

 

Disconnect the second set and time to 12 degrees like normal and it will run just like a single point distributor.

 

 

 

If the retard set are active and you disconnect them the engine will likely respond by revving up slightly because it is now getting proper advance.

[ggzilla]

If I unplug the second point the idle spikes.

How do you mean by "spikes"?

 

 

Why did I buy the single point dizzy then?

Because you deserve new/upgraded parts? People get the single-point distributor mainly so the pertronix unit will fit in, then get rid of the points.

[ohmrchristopher]

Rise=spikes=idle climbs Mike basically nailed it.

 

Now I just unbolted the dizzy from the block, I didn't need the shaft going down to the oil pump did I? Can I just pull out my dual, put in the single and time?

 

fixed my horn/high-beam issue...

[Boaty]

http://www.lobucrod.com/

 

I used this in the 510. EZ-Cool is the shit, and it's easy to work with. I just laid mine down, spray adhesived it, used foil tape to connect the joints, and it works amazing.

My exhaust is literally about 1/4" off the floor near the gas pedal, and it doesn't hardly get hot at all. I love it. IT DOES, however, dislike where your foot goes. I have worn out two dimples in the insulation (flattened out) where my heels are while driving, etc. Normal wear and tear, keep that in mind. The stuff is cheap and I will be using it again in the 620 once I get moving on the interior - along with a fair amount of fat mat.

 

Definitely enjoy the EZ-Cool. Here's a pic of the install in my 510 a couple months ago.

 

Highly recommended, shipping is fast and cheap (priority!) and the people are wonderful to talk to as well.

 

EDIT - By the way this is *NOT* the same stuff you can buy at Home Depot/Lowes. It is NOT bubble wrap, it's closed cell foam. Doesn't even compare, not in the silghtest. I had a lot of people tell me it's the same, and it is very much NOT the same, the bubble wrap shit SUCKS - don't even entertain the thought of buying it.

[Dawa]

i wouldve elaborated more but i dont have any personal experience. so far ive only applied it to the 'underseat' area of my 620. im waiting to receive my carpet before i install in the 'underfeet' and high wear areas. having something on top (carpet, juke, rubbermats, etc) is supposed to lessen the wear/pressure upon the foam.

nice looking install job, Boaty. muuuuch prettier than mine. i bought a can of rubber cement and was laying it down with an acid brush.... very messy and not quite effective. next time around ima buy the aerosal.

[ohmrchristopher]

I bought a timing light and timed everything fine.

 

Set my idle to 800rpm +/-50, (I think I am having a fuel delivery issue), plug gap, point gap, 5 deg retard for main points, and 7 deg retard for second set and now it purrrs perfectly...

 

Still cant figure out the auto choke -__-