Name those wires

[Sealik]

Just about finished installing the LZ in the 510......couple of quick elec questions to confirm :)

 

 

From left...

1-black/yellow.....Spade connection on solenoid...ignition/start

2 and 3 (white wires)...to large connection/starter

4-yellow/black.....'oil pressure'

5.....2 blacks/ground to alt

6...large white/red bolted to alt.

7 and 8 ..... plugged in to alt.

 

I'm assuming this is correct....but its somewhat of a rats nest and some don't reach there intended connection.

I 'only' ask because the stock voltage reg is by-passed.

I'll solder/shrink wrap all connections....

[datzenmike]

Think you have it Doug. Black/red stripe are reverse lights. Where ever they are.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

You will want to run a the fusable link.

 

Just took them, If you need more just ask

 

Wix oil filter number for the lolz

[Sealik]

Think you have it Doug. Black/red stripe are reverse lights. Where ever they are.

 

Hopefully.....already had 1 fire in the 510.... :frantics: ..and now.... compromised replacement harness(s).... :lol: :lol:

Yeah.... the reverse lights follow the firewall over to the drivers side....then back...I think :D

[Sealik]

You will want to run a the fusable link.

 

 

 

 

Just took them, If you need more just ask

 

Wix oil filter number for the lolz

 

 

That does help....thanks :thumbup:

 

I now have the to do list............... :D

Use to buy Wix...........but that filter I have is exactly the same, manufactured in the same plant.

About 40% cheaper....'generic'...... :P

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

That does help....thanks :thumbup:

 

I now have the to do list............... :D

Use to buy Wix...........but that filter I have is exactly the same, manufactured in the same plant.

About 40% cheaper....'generic'...... :P

 

:thumbup:

Get it running and driving...

 

Can get the bosch for $5 through that place where we get timing chains for cheap :sneaky:

They also list K & N for $8

[Sealik]

 

 

I see you only have the one large white wire going to the starter.

I've got 2...another smaller white wire that shows (elec diagram) it going to the VR....hmmmm.

[Sealik]

 

 

 

 

Checked the plug-in at my alt....wires are reversed for some reason :confused:

Guess I'll clip and switch them........

[rayven14]

I said it before and I'll say it again "Pigmys wired my 510, I believe it was a friday near 5pm" and this is the reason I created my own harness.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Checked the plug-in at my alt....wires are reversed for some reason :confused:

Guess I'll clip and switch them........

 

You can use a pin or micro screw driver to push the clips that hold the connectors in the plastic push in plug.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I see you only have the one large white wire going to the starter.

I've got 2...another smaller white wire that shows (elec diagram) it going to the VR....hmmmm.

 

 

Over the years and the swap things happen to 510s wiring..not in a good way usually.

[Sealik]

You can use a pin or micro screw driver to push the clips that hold the connectors in the plastic push in plug.

 

Yeah...I clipped them anyways...just to confirm a good connection

 

Over the years and the swap things happen to 510s wiring..not in a good way usually.

 

I'll say......

 

Sooo...I'm assuming that if the 1 wire to the stock OP sending unit is unplugged....the warning light in the dash will light up.

I'm going to use my 2 prong sending unit (with 720 gauge)......I'll just connect that single wire (from harness) into my new wiring

?

 

Edit

 

I didn't have a fuseable link...so I used a in-line fuse instead.

Has a 15 amp fuse in it....good enough or a higher rating?

Edited May 22, 2012 by Sealik

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Yeah...I clipped them anyways...just to confirm a good connection

 

 

 

I'll say......

 

Sooo...I'm assuming that if the 1 wire to the stock OP sending unit is unplugged....the warning light in the dash will light up.

I'm going to use my 2 prong sending unit (with 720 gauge)......I'll just connect that single wire (from harness) into my new wiring

?

 

Edit

 

I didn't have a fuseable link...so I used a in-line fuse instead.

Has a 15 amp fuse in it....good enough or a higher rating?

 

 

In theory thats how the stock sender works.

I would think a 15amp should suffice,better safe than sorry, cant rob one from a 720?

Well you into the harness where it branches to the engine, there is a crimped connection there, it always goes bad at the worst possible time.

Check it out for corrosion.

[Sealik]

I would think a 15amp should suffice,better safe than sorry, cant rob one from a 720?

Well you into the harness where it branches to the engine, there is a crimped connection there, it always goes bad at the worst possible time.

Check it out for corrosion.

 

I can throw in any size.....go lower in amps???

I'll hunt for that crimped connection.

 

Hooked up 2 good grounds for batt...1 to frame and 1 to block.

Connected all those wires and......zippo...well not quite.

With ignition off....I have power to the 4 fuses on right and 1 on lower left

There is power at the fuseable link...coming out of the fuse box

Power at alt/large white red wire

With ignition on....no change. Although the front right running light comes on for some reason... :blink: ...I'm sure the left one would too.... if it was hooked up.... :D

No dash/dummy lights....try to start....just here a relay click.

Head lights work.

 

Hooked up that second white wire to starter....no difference.

No power to coil....positive side has the black/white and black/blue. Negative side goes to module

 

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I would stick with between 15 and 30 amps( I think factory is 25 or close to that), dependent on what is being run in the circuit, its there to protect the wiring.(better safe than sorry initially)

 

 

Voltage regulator is bypassed because its IR alternator? right

 

Double check to make sure its as it supposed to wired.

 

http://dimequarterly...tech_iralt.html

[datsunaholic]

Yeah...I clipped them anyways...just to confirm a good connection

 

 

 

I'll say......

 

Sooo...I'm assuming that if the 1 wire to the stock OP sending unit is unplugged....the warning light in the dash will light up.

I'm going to use my 2 prong sending unit (with 720 gauge)......I'll just connect that single wire (from harness) into my new wiring

?

 

 

No. With the yellow/black oil pressure switch wire disconnected, the light will not be on. The light has a switched +12V at the dash, and grounds through the oil pressure switch. It's a normally-closed switch that OPENS when there's above 5-7PSI (which makes the light go off, since there's now no ground). Since you're using a gauge, just tape the wire out of the way and run 2 new wires from the sender to wherever they're supposed to go.

[Sealik]

I would stick with between 15 and 30 amps( I think factory is 25 or close to that), dependent on what is being run in the circuit, its there to protect the wiring.(better safe than sorry initially)

 

 

Voltage regulator is bypassed because its IR alternator? right

 

Double check to make sure its as it supposed to wired.

 

http://dimequarterly...tech_iralt.html

 

I pulled the front harness out of Byrons goon......so I assumed that it was wired correctly, just cleaned up those connections

Had a look at those bypass wires...

White/Blue and White/black

Yellow and White/Red

 

Hmmmmmm...that's not right

 

Should be....

 

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

 

Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)

Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

(This the wiring at the HARNESS, compare it to the regulator wiring, both should be the same - but some replacement units did not follow the color code).

Plug the connector back onto the wiring harness. Quick, simple, painless to swap back if the need every arises.

 

 

No. With the yellow/black oil pressure switch wire disconnected, the light will not be on. The light has a switched +12V at the dash, and grounds through the oil pressure switch. It's a normally-closed switch that OPENS when there's above 5-7PSI (which makes the light go off, since there's now no ground). Since you're using a gauge, just tape the wire out of the way and run 2 new wires from the sender to wherever they're supposed to go.

 

Thanks

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I pulled the front harness out of Byrons goon......so I assumed that it was wired correctly, just cleaned up those connections

Had a look at those bypass wires...

White/Blue and White/black

Yellow and White/Red

 

Hmmmmmm...that's not right

 

Should be....

 

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

 

Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)

Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

(This the wiring at the HARNESS, compare it to the regulator wiring, both should be the same - but some replacement units did not follow the color code).

Plug the connector back onto the wiring harness. Quick, simple, painless to swap back if the need every arises.

 

 

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Do you have power to the rest of the fuse block now?

For some reason I always check the wiring if a 510 has been suspect of owner neglect( lack of knowledge)

Pretty simple thing to keep running, but :sneaky:

[Sealik]

Yeah.....I doubt it was Byron....most likely the kid he sold it to.

Flipped those bypass wires......no change

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Yeah.....I doubt it was Byron....most likely the kid he sold it to.

Flipped those bypass wires......no change

 

 

I am pretty sure it went through a couple owners after Byron and before Merlin.

 

A shot in the dark here, but the plugs under the dash, are they correct.(passenger side) I kinda remember dealing with one guys 510, he had "somewhat" similar issues, and the plugs under the dash were switched and I switched them over walla... maybe in this case.. :confused:

[Sealik]

I am pretty sure it went through a couple owners after Byron and before Merlin.

 

A shot in the dark here, but the plugs under the dash, are they correct.(passenger side) I kinda remember dealing with one guys 510, he had "somewhat" similar issues, and the plugs under the dash were switched and I switched them over walla... maybe in this case.. :confused:

 

I'll check that....

 

 

I do have power at the ignition switch

IG and B terminals are hot...clicks a relay when I plug it in.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I'll check that....

 

 

I do have power at the ignition switch

IG and B terminals are hot...clicks a relay when I plug it in.

 

 

the 6 wire plugs..

 

here is a pic

[Sealik]

Bad Doug......

 

Yup...you were correct.... couple of plugins were wrong... ................damn help these days..... :lol:

Swapped them over......have power to those other fuses....and coil..... :thumbup:

No start though.

No dummy/ignition lights.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

:thumbup:

getting closer.

 

Try to wiggle the common fuse...or replace or macguyver :sneaky:

 

 

Also check the connector to the solenoid..

 

if all else fails to try a start jumper the starter

[Sealik]

Yes...much closer :) ....thanks.

Couldn't quite see the dash cluster from outside....but when I got inside I could see the GEN light 'on'....dash lights were sort of working...very dim.

4-ways are working

I think the ignition switch is NFG....doesn't feel right.

Charge the batt up and try again tomorrow..... :D