removing the 30yr old paperweight label

[sedan20]

i have some issues relating to my 1970 510 (sedan) sitting for so LONG (1983 - 2012)... ive been feverishly busy trying to resurect it for a while now, but i am experiencing one hurdle after another.

 

hurdles

-broken/severed fuel filler neck

-1, 2, 4, 15psi compresion, and 3 at 50psi

-driver, drivers side rear seat destroyed by the elements

-missing, disconnected wires in the years past

-broken drivers rear wing window

-no keys/wheels locked straight

-mechanical fuel pump w/out suction

-burned out/broken lights

-brake lights constantly on

-exhaust rusted solid - had to be broken to be removed

-window rubbers destroyed with age

-infested with black widows

-door hinges rusted near solid

-brake master cylindar locked solid w/out fluid in the lines

-clutch master cylindar loaded full of corrosion w/out fluid in the lines as well

 

----and these are just things that i needed to take care of in order to get it running and driveable...

ive taken care of some of these things thus far, and wanted to share with ratsun, as well as ask questions about some of the things i have yet to accomplish.

the first thing i took care of was the wiring. i needed it to turn over, so i got a lesson in wiring a coil with points.. (needing to run the 12v through a resister for a constant power) then we did the compression test ^^^ and decided it was time for a good valve lapping. but when i took it apart i saw parts of the head that were eaten away by straight water (no antifreeze) in the system while it sat. so i placed the project on hold for a few days as i acquired ANOTHER 510 (coupe). this one was a 72 with 32k origional documented miles. the car ran but you could hear the timing tensioner rattling around in the engine. so i pulled both motors and repaired the coupes, and stuck it in the sedan (i have other plans for the coupe that dont involve the stock L16) i kept important things like the transmission, alt, starter, coil, dizzy, etc and continued with the install. i bought all new hoses under the hood, and replaced the fuel lines. i then found out that the fuel pump from the coupe took a dump on me, so i swapped for the sedans. i also added an electric one in line to decrease load stress. i got it running, and checked the vital functions. everything checked out except the brake and clutch. the brake pedal was solid, but the clutch petal worked. i went to autozone, and bought a brand new clutch master, and ordered a brand new clutch slave (will be here on the 16th), i installed the clutch and bled it, but the pedal doesnt extend the same length toward the drivers seat as it used to. weird... and then i changed the brake master (skipped bench bleeding cause the lines are all dry) and started trying to bleed through the wheel... using normal brake bleeding techniques - pressurize, open&close bleed valve, repressurize, repeat - the brake fluid was doing something ive never seen before... it seemed to be flushing around inside the resevoirs (front and back) and not actually pressurizing.... what the hell?

 

current issues

-weird brake master cylindar behavior

-clutch not engaging/disengaging with the petal (possible due to shorter available travel)

 

i know these are things normally caused by such a long stay parked in the woods, but i really need these fixed... any wise words ratsun-land?

[ggzilla]

Yes, it is time to fix them. Quickest and cheapest to buy a good used engine.

[sedan20]

ive got the engine part down... i need to get the brakes and clutch worked out... im thinking about exchanging the master cylindar, and blowing the lines out with an air hose... the brake lines are the origional rubber and cracked and damaged. in the process of thinking over the swap to the 280zx suspension would i HAVE to change lines out? or if i invest in some steel braided lines, can i keep those for the new suspension?

[ggzilla]

Just by a new M/C from rockauto -- cheaper than having yours rebuilt, $28 at RockAuto

 

Yes, the 280ZX suspension uses different brake lines. Don't bother to change the ones you have, just got it working. It's only the outer rubber that cracks, they will still work (though may not work optimally).

 

Get your car running first, driving 2nd, then work on perfecting it.

[lil89ram50]

If you have replaced the master cylinder, bleed itt, have a person in the vehicle pump the pedal slowly a few times, and hold it firmly. while there holding the pedal crack the line loose at the master cylinder. do this a few times, or untill no air comes out anymore.

 

NEXT

 

remove all the drums, either both of them, or all 4. Make sure theres no leaking wheel clyinders. Then adjust them till they lightly scratch while spinning. Just barely!!!!

 

Then, remove all the brake bleeder screws and clean them with a paper clip and some brake cleaner. Watch your eyes.

re-install all the bleaders, But leave the rears loose. Fill the resivour, and let it drain down low 3 or 4 times. do not touch the pedal while doing this. Then close them, and open the fronts and do the same procedure. close fronts now.

 

Now, go push pedal slowly to the floor 8-10 times. if still not hard enough for you, i think you can adjust the master cylinder rod in the vehicle at the pedal.

 

this should get you verry good brakes, if not, you will either need help from another person, or go buy a mighty-vac. but try this way first.

[hvyd]

U need to bench bleed your master cylinder first. Thats one reason your nor getting any pressure. You can do it in the car too. Disconnect your brake lines, put on the plastic niples it came with, run a bit of small hose from nipples into reservoirs and begin pumping pedal until no more bubbles. Install break lines, open bleaders and allow gravity to do its job making sure keep master full. Once you have fluid at brakes bleed normally. If it never gets down to brakes you may need to clean lines out and start bleeding again.

[sedan20]

yeah i fixed the pressure issue... but the lines have been sitting for so long that i only got fluid to flush 3 of 4 wheel cylindars. luckily the plugged solid one was in the rear... so in the limited time i had i bled it point by point all the way to the wheel cylindar, and had to leave it at that.... (i have to commute an hour and half to work where i stay during the week) so ive been here unable to work on my car, but first thing when i get home, ill be working that fluid through the cylindar agian... hopefully this week of lapse will help to break down the clog and i wont have that hard of a time on saturday... till then, im driving slow, fully consious i have funky brakes. :blink:

[Z chopper]

just a question you said you got a coupe, are you sure it isn't a 2 door sedan? seems like a few people get them mixed up.

[ggzilla]

510 2-dr sedan

[sedan20]

i guess i dont understand what the diffrence is between a coupe and a 2dr sedan,,,, either way ive got a 2dr 1972 AND a 4dr 1970

[ggzilla]

A sedan is made for men in hats. A coupe is a bit sporty at the expense of headroom. This terminology was started pre-automobile back in the days of carriages.

 

In the 510 work, the Coupe is a semi-fastback. Never sold in USA as new cars. You've probably never seen one, I've only seen a a very few at car shows.

[sedan20]

lol. im familiar with the definition diffrence of the two... but your right, i guess ive never seen anything other than the two door sedan, and the 4dr sedan... http://youtu.be/5fBUhOIMP3s - i see now... the big diffrences being the roofline (of course), hood, grill w/fog lights, and folding interior... right?

[sedan20]

funny because i noticed the amazing similarities between the two bodystyles... and decided that when i paint the sedan ill be shaving off the rear door handles, and going with the look of a 2dr, while still experiencing the funcionality of the 4dr.... this all makes sense.

[sedan20]

i seem to be having other issues... its sputtering... i cant seem to figure it out..

 

i know that my fuel tank needs to be removed and cleaned because of the exposure it has experienced while sitting for so long with a broken fuel fill valve, but ive been installing new fuel filters regularly when an old one gets dirty...

 

it started as a sputter ONLY when it got warm AND was under a load...

 

i took it to a friend to check it out while i went back to the base for the work week... he said he set the weber carb to the specs that they gave him on the internet, and it seemed to run fine... but he just left it idling in his back yard without issue. i came back the next weekend, and test drove it.. it did the same thing while under a load and warm..

 

so we decided to see if there was an issue with a leaky intake manifold gasket being that the one installed had been on and off a few times. so we removed the intake and exhaust (in the process breaking one, drilling, and removing two, drilling, tapping, and helicoiling three intake/exhaust bolts successfully) re-installed flalessly, with copper coat. and while we were at it, installed my new dual side draft weber carb set up. it seemed to have the same exact problem. eliminating the option of it being a leaky/malfunctioning intake manifold/ carburator.

 

also my new assy required fabricating some throttle linkage, so i jbwelded what i thought would work together, and let it sit for a day, i was able to use my new throttle linkage contraption for a day before it failed on me, but it was long enough to find that the sputtering problem has gotten worse, and is NOW affecting idle.

 

just for shits and giggles i changed the spark plugs and regapped the new ones to oem specs.

 

i wanted to know if it was related over fueling (i have an electric fuel pump hooked up in line to my weak mechanical fuel pump), so i turned off my electric fuel pump while it was sputtering, and it drained the carbs of fuel while sputtering the whole time till it died. seeming to me that it isnt an overfueling problem.

 

now im stuck. ill check the spark today its a bit difficult to do solo being that cranking, and checking require you to be in two places at once.

 

any advice would be appreciated. i dont know carbs hardly at all, and points are gay, i wanna get rid of those asap... i need more money. lmao. dont we all.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Jeff Hino told me there is a plug at bottom of the tank. pull it and see what the gas look like while comming out.

Get a bucket.

Personally 510 tanks are in better shape than trucks.

If you think bad gas get a can and route a hose to the carb and try running it.

time it, adjust the valve lash, ck for intake tightness

[sedan20]

thanks man, i know theres crap in there, i just thought id ignore/filter and re filter it out. turns out that was a bad idea... who would have thought right? well, ill be taking care of that today regardless of weather its the prime contributor to issues or not.. ill use the contaminated chevron premium to power my lawn mower and start fires. haha.

 

the intake is fit securely. i took extra time to make double sure of that, and even coated the whole gasket in copper coat (<<<good stuff!)

 

ive gotta time it with a timing gun, and adjust valve lash.. THAT is something i didnt think of yet. thankyou.

 

my birthday is up in eight days, so i asked my wife if i could do a few things to the datsun with our not so loose finances, and she was cool with it! so ill be changing over to electronic ignition as long as i can find the setup... any suggestions on where to look?

[Tice]

Sedan20, did you figure out what was causing the Sputtering? sounds like this Datsun has been a troublemaker! Lots of good work here, keep it up

[sedan20]

yeah, i guess initially it was the combination of over pressurized (not necessarily dirty) fuel into the carbs, and MOSTLY points.... so installing a fuel pressure regulator fixed the fuel's immediate issue, and sealing the inside of the fuel tank prevented contamination issues (that while they were not present, were inevitibly GOING to happen). the biggest thing i did was switching over to electronic ignition from points... BUT... i ran a MSD blaster 3 coil with my new "hotspark" ebay dizzy... so i fried the module quickly due to overheating the electronics. so after a fight with hotspark, a new distributer, and a HIGH resistance coil from an old ford truck i had the ignition figured out... changing the carb/intake mani setup just caused me tuning issues (my bad... i just wanted to do it :D )

 

check out LAZARUS's thread...

 

yeah it was some trouble, but a lot of it was my doing. its running great as of now... i just recently accepted a challenge to pull a coworkers full size f250 camping rig. ive got the video linked on my thread. :D

[Tice]

(my bad... i just wanted to do it :D )

 

If you hadn't done it, you'd regret it more than anything, I'm sure. lol Well, good job.

I had a truck that was way overpressurized once, but it never sputtered... it just stalled all the damn time haha!