izzo Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Having a charging issue. just wanted to get some other opinions before I dig to far. When at an idle, im not getting a charge. I can tell, due to after sitting a few the car will die. Jump it, and it fires right up. Now, at night, with the lights on I can watch the dash lights dim out, and after they get so dim the car will die... But if I rev up the motor the lights all come back to where they should be and it'll stay running. I'm figuring its the alternator (maybe the VR, but unlikely) I haven't got as far as running my voltmeter on it yet. There is a second wire ran from the BAT of the alt to the battery so it should be getting a good charge if the alt is working properly. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Sounds like a bad battery, actually, coupled with too low an idle. Battery should be able to run the car for 30 minutes +, even with the lights on and the alternator not working. The fact that the lights brighten up when you bring it off idle says the alternator is working, though it COULD be worn out. From what you're reporting the Voltage Regulator seems fine. Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Ive got another alt with only a few hours on it, no other batteries tho Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 By eyeballing the alternator it doesn't look old or high mileage. Its been raining a lot here lately, so ive had the lights/wipers and heater going all the time. I dunno how old the battery is, doesn't look torn up/nasty/dirty but not sure. Guess I could throw in my yellow top and run some voltage tests. Ill see about leaving the battery with napa and having them test it. I don't think the idle is set to low, in fact it could be lower than what it is now. Sounds right around 800-1000 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 everybody should get this and have it in there car. cheap. can move it to a different vehicle and doesnt drain out the battery. brushes could be nearing the end of there life. When speeding up the brushes might be slightly making better contack. I would clean the battery cables inside and out and see if that will help. maybe its just a bad corrosion spot and taking a couple volts there. ITS FREE. Ck the batt ends for cracks. take alternator in for a load test http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor or any type of plug in Cig lighter type alternator battery cker http://www.equus.com/Product/3430/Digital-Test-Light Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I have a multimeter but haven't had time to test it yet. I was thinking it was the alternator, since it works when it speeds up it was the brushes like you were saying hainz. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I've had two with the exact same symptoms and new brushes did not help, But a new alternator did. YMMV, same symptoms can be caused by two different things. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Found a guy with a 720 IR alt for 20 dollars. Thinking about getting it and throwing it in there and just doing the jumper trick. Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Thats the way to go, the battery came with the car, when I had the timing light on it , she said 1000 rpm, but the 1200 carb thats on there has bigger idle, primary and seconddary jets than the b210 bitachi carb, so it was weird getting it idle right, but that carb and jets I gave you should help that, just swap out the jets and run the 1200 carb, couse there cooler and simpler. The primary and secondary jets are easy peasy, the 2 bolts sticking out of the float bowl facing front at 45°, good luck mang, and come get some parts Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 cleaning cable first is FREE Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I have a question tho, I have seen mixed information on what wires to jump for switching the B over to IR alternator. Anyone point me in the RIGHT direction with a link or what wires?? Im getting off the PC and using my phone and its a pain in the ass finding the information. I am going to be using an 86 720 IR alt almost same as truck KA alt. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 720 IR alternator is what I am using -- it is far smaller than a B210 alternator. So be sure to get the large 720 unit and not the small 720 unit. I have seen mixed information on what wires to jump Because there are TWO ways to do it, and both work. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Got it... Had to put bigger eye connectors on to make it fit wiring wise and then add two lengths of wire to retain the stok connector. It read 12.8v with car off and 14 volt car on. Dropped to 13.6-7 with everything on Quote Link to comment
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