Replaceing wire harness in '73 620

[Farmer]

Im replacing the wire harness in my '73 620 due to past PO's wired in HID on the stock harness, funking connection for electric fuel pump, and so on. Its running aftermarket carbs and a stand alone ignition unit. So looking at the wiring diagram, its looks like I can get rid of the dist relay (i have a stand alone, only needs 2 wires) which takes out throttle switch, heater relay(only for auto choke heater & anti dieseling solenoid) and if i get IR alternator, the voltage reg. The bcdd cut solenoid is useless. Temp sens sw. Dont even needs 4th lamp switch.

 

Does that all sound right?

 

Larry

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

If everything works right now just leave it.

 

Most peoiple dont use the BCDD switch or wire

[jun]

HID shouldn't have affected the stock harness, as it has its own harness that plugs into 1 of the headlight plugs, along with + to battery and - to ground. Everything else remains the same.

 

Unless the PO did it wrong and actually cut wires to make them work. :frantics:

[Farmer]

Everything doesnt work though on the original harness. Believe me, I wouldnt be doing the electrical if I didnt have too.

 

According to the diagram, theres a wire connection(blk/red) from the plus side of coil that goes back to the ignition switch. What eactly is that for. The truck started and ran without it previously.

 

Larry

[Farmer]

HID shouldn't have affected the stock harness, as it has its own harness that plugs into 1 of the headlight plugs, along with + to battery and - to ground. Everything else remains the same. Unless the PO did it wrong and actually cut wires to make them work. :frantics:

 

Im not sure what he was trying to do. The truck has the square light conversion done to it and they was installing them on there. Ill get a pic up to show

 

Larry

[rayven14]

Rip it all out and start over... I did!

[banzai510(hainz)]

olddatsuns.com has the wired diagrams.

 

 

According to the diagram, theres a wire connection(blk/red) from the plus side of coil that goes back to the ignition switch. What eactly is that for.?????????

 

 

simple get a volt meter

Put KEY to ON. see what the wire does? 12volt?

Put key to START, see what the wire does. 12volt ?

 

On my 521 I have a Blk/red and it has a another wire out of it. This would be MY HOT START wire(Key in START Position) Its used to bypass the ballast resisitor in START position,goes to the PLUS side of the coil. You want FULL voltage to coil as the starter is draining alot of voltage. then when key goes back to ON the blk /wht wire has 12volts goes thru the ballast resisitor then to the plus side of the coil. Point distributor are design to use a 1.6 ohm coil and a 1.6 ohm ballast resisitor. Point dont last long if too much current!!!!!!

 

Since you got different stuff on you truck soem might or might be needed. idf its running then dont fuck with it.

 

as for the lights. Most light harness you can use the old light harness. Usuall just plug in the outer light plug on pass sidr near the batter to trigger the new harness. Most call will call it the low current switching side.

 

 

if this was orginally a dual point truck yes youll have extra wires from a 3rd gear switch relay ect.. that is not needed.

 

but to pull everything out and start over is not good unless you can do the above first.

 

see too many 510 owners doing NEW wire harness from scratch just to be SOLD for scrap later

[Farmer]

Ive already torn out the harness, Engine and cab.

 

Looking at the bulb that they were trying to hook up, im not sure what type it is. In any case, my fuse block is melted at the headlight fuse, so something is drawing way to much current. On with the pics:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the ignition setup thats on the built L16. It called Allison XR700. It uses a LED to generate an invisible infrared light beam directed at a phototransistor. And its match to their performance coil. It totally elminates the points.

 

 

 

[datsunaholic]

Those aren't HIDs. HIDs need a transformer & ballast pack since they run at extremely high voltage- like 15,000Volts.

 

Those are just H4 bulbs. If you run an HB2 bulb instead you MIGHT not fry the harness, but really what you need is to add a relay to the relay, or REPLACE the relay with a normal aftermarket headlight relay. A '73 still feeds all the power through the fuse box to the headlights, the relay simply is there as a high/low switch so that you aren't feeding full power through the dimmer.

[banzai510(hainz)]

those lights dont look like HID to me

Pullthem out and see what they say. If a 3 prong 2 eleement bulb then its a common HB4 or known as H4 type.

 

So going by waht I see looks like a H4 bulb with a maybe a hella lamp.cibie plastic rubber part but usually those H4 lamp plugs in back a Hella/cibie/Bosche metal housing. Look hooky what you have.

 

When using a HI watt H4 bulb in a Old Datsun you will use a H4 light harness thats can be bought.

I use this.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Headlights.shtml

 

on my highs I leave them stock 50watters If uses a newer 55 watt HIGH housing not need to use another relay if you keep the same 50-55watt H1 bulb.

 

So Im thinking if its wired correctly already u can just plug that blu/red end mess into the new harness listed on the link. and that will have 2 relay on it. one is for LOW and one for HIGH on the H4 bulb and gets its power staright from the battery terminal ( I used the starter lug so its less like to be seen).

 

if you have not been using a Power relays than that why the fuse has been having a hard time as these Bulps are more power. 55/60 watt as the stock is just 35watts on a old Datsun 620 lamps. But ou been on here long enough and should see this written up numerous times already when people say you need a light harness.

 

as the the Allison ignition. I hear they are good Crane Cams bought them out and but crane went out of bussiness. I still think there are still left overs being sold out there.

 

If the ignition is OK the way it is then leave it. Doesnt look like you need a ballast resisitor in there as you got the coil for it. But usually these are converison and not a true EI. As they were made to run the stock componets and just use the optical shiutter to trigger the switching of the coil. If possible I would leave the HOT START wire in the system in case later you have to go back to stock. the other 3rd gear switch and realy I would pull outonly after you get it running again.

 

 

what I see so far could have been fixed without oulling the harness out.

[Farmer]

Thanks for the info.

 

I should of mention that Im going back to the oem headlight setup. Ive read many times about having to use relays and such for the upgrades in lighting. And I'll probably do the upgrade on my main build. But not this truck. Also the PO Owners have done other things, removed wires, tried to add things plus the mice damage.

 

The Allison was installed in during the early 90's. If you look at the picture with the ignition, you will see a little gold cylinder. That is the resistor for the system. It replaces the stock ceramic one. Im planning on hooking up the other blk/red to the coil. I have the install instruction for the Allison and it show I can.

 

Since Im not running anything oem ignition wise, Im going to remove the dist relay,heater relay, plus anything related to the stock carb components. And going to an IR alt, I'll remove voltage reg.

 

Ill probably part this 620 out when Im done anyways. This 620 has been in a wreck on the front pass side. Has different inner fender support and inside cab is disformed. Plus i can use the money on my main build.

 

 

But again, thanks for all the great info.

 

Larry

 

I just wanting to get rid of the other stuff.