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smog or no smog?


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Thanks for starting this thread. I've been wondering the same thing with the '79 620 I recently bought. Haven't been calculating milage, but wondering if it will be better or worse without all the smog shit. It's like hell trying to see anything under the hood compare to my 71 goon with absolutely no smog at all.

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There'll be no change for the better as the 'smog' equipment really doesn't significantly affect the running. Removing it can introduce things like vacuum leaks.

 

15 MPG is seriously bad, you should be able to get close to 30 on the highway and over 20 in town.

 

Do you have the stock carb on it?

Sounds like the choke may be stuck on.

Timing could be off

 

Got any pictures of the smog removal changes?

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Supost to be worse without smog stuff. Not sure how much tho.

 

And the lines from the exhaust were crimped instead of being removed and plugged... vacume lines are plugged but dunno if there's leaks. Missing idle adjustment so carb is tuned to compensate... timing needs done bad but can't till I get the idle. And water pump went out today....probably part of the problem. Had to be towed 20 miles home. I'll post picks when I can. Going to try and fix most of it by Monday so i can go to work. My wife will probably make me get rid of it if I break down again so hopefully i can get it back on the road...

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Electric choke isn't working so goin to make it a manual choke

 

There'll be no change for the better as the 'smog' equipment really doesn't significantly affect the running. Removing it can introduce things like vacuum leaks.

 

15 MPG is seriously bad, you should be able to get close to 30 on the highway and over 20 in town.

 

Do you have the stock carb on it?

Sounds like the choke may be stuck on.

Timing could be off

 

Got any pictures of the smog removal changes?

 

Well there's your problem. The choke won't shut off.

Wire it (the blue wire) to the idle cut solenoid (the red wire) right beside it. That will get it working.

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It's wired it the right way but it's not shutting off. I'm going to get a cable and make it a manual choke tomorrow probably. And I just put a nre water pump in today and the idle adjustment. So tomorrow my buddy is going to help me tune it and set my timing, then I'll be running great for the first time since I got it. and my last tank I got less than 15... maybe 12? haha and i drive 40 miles a day for work

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It's wired it the right way but it's not shutting off. I'm going to get a cable and make it a manual choke tomorrow probably. And I just put a nre water pump in today and the idle adjustment. So tomorrow my buddy is going to help me tune it and set my timing, then I'll be running great for the first time since I got it. and my last tank I got less than 15... maybe 12? haha and i drive 40 miles a day for work

 

The choke heater only has power to it when the motor is running (alternator charging) It's easier to connect the choke heater wire to the idle cut solenoid wire to make it work.

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I do about 25MPH on a bad day in my '76 with a Weber. Sounds like you're getting pretty shit gas mileage. Most of that garbage isn't working at this point anymore and can be removed. Hold onto PCV and ditch the rest.

 

25mph thats hella slow... im doing like freeway speeds barely in my 76 with weber but mines a short be... ahahaha

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Hot motors have a tendency to 'run on' or diesel, when the key is turned off. To stop this, an electric solenoid is placed into the fuel circuit to the idle mixture screw. When the key is ON fuel can get to the idle screw and the engine runs. When the ignition is turned off fuel is cut off and the motor can't 'run on' and stalls quickly. If the solenoid fails or does not have 12 volts to it there will be no gas to the idle circuit and it may start but will not idle.

 

The idle cut solenoid on the Hitachi is usually a Red wire and goes directly to the ignition switch.

 

 

It's the hex shaped thing with the red wire in the picture below.

 

carbL20BHitachi.jpg

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Hot motors have a tendency to 'run on' or diesel, when the key is turned off. To stop this, an electric solenoid is placed into the fuel circuit to the idle mixture screw. When the key is ON fuel can get to the idle screw and the engine runs. When the ignition is turned off fuel is cut off and the motor can't 'run on' and stalls quickly. If the solenoid fails or does not have 12 volts to it there will be no gas to the idle circuit and it may start but will not idle.

 

The idle cut solenoid on the Hitachi is usually a Red wire and goes directly to the ignition switch.

 

 

It's the hex shaped thing with the red wire in the picture below.

 

carbL20BHitachi.jpg

 

 

Good to know, thanks Mike (again). I need to do this in my goon

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I'm not sure the idle cut is working right all the time either them... sometimes the motor fires a few times after shutoff. after the rebiuld and cleaning it does it only every once and awhile tho. the wireing in my truck is cut and spliced everywhere and removed in some cases.... lots of work for me i guess.

 

On the pluss i did get the part for my idle adjustment and dial it all in. it runs 110% better and not as much fuel dumping out my tail pipe. tomorrow is timimg and plugg the smog stuff the right way. it's too far gone to put the smog back in not to mention the fact that i have no idea what's been removed

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